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After reading a bunch of (often conflicting) message board comments about rousing yeast to help a stuck fermentation I found this old 1939 Journal of the Institute of Brewing article on experiments with rousing. It suggests that rousing is indeed effective, especially slow continuous stirring of...

Also, flocculation and attenuation are not the same thing! And an extra 10 points on the OG is going to be 2-3 more points on the FG. :mug: Thanks, I know you are right just got them mixed up, Monday morning! Thanks for the feedback, I am gonna let it roll and see what happens. I...

I brewed a partial-mash BIAB nut brown ale yesterday (3 gal partial boil). The estimated OG was 1.050 but came out 1.060. I used the new Mangrove Jacks Newcastle Dark Ale yeast, which is billed as moderately flocculating, meaning it will finish higher than other yeasts to leave a bit of...

Yeah, not enough co2 to cause bottle bombs, just enough to give the finished product a nice effervescence!

I brewed this as a partial mash BIAB and got an OG of 1.070, pitched S-04 and let it sit 3 weeks in primary at 64-67 degrees. FG was very high at 1.028, so either I didn't aerate enough (doubtful) or maybe the OG was too high for S-04? Not sure, but I'll use Notty next time. I went ahead...

Well, for one S-04 is a dry yeast and you aren't supposed to make starters with dry yeast, so that may be the reason why you aren't getting much activity. You are just supposed to rehydrate and then pitch.

You need to let it sit three times as long as you have, the sour/tartness will smooth out with aging. It's excellent left dry once it is done aging, be patient and you won't have to mess with sweetening.

In my partial mash batches I mash 6 lbs of grain and then make up the difference with DME added at flameout after boil. Use an online recipe calculator like Brewtoad to determine how much DME you need to add to get the OG you want. It's really very easy.

+5 = 26,477

The sourness might be that it wasn't allowed to age long enough. I've only made one batch but let it sit for 4 months before bottling, it is refreshingly tart and dry but not sour. Two months is probably not long enough.

Enoch52, there are no ill effects from letting it sit on the yeast for so long. I left mine for 4 months and it tastes great, others have reported leaving for 6 months. I don't know why, just know it's so.

I bottled my first batch of apfelwein this weekend, made to EdWort's original recipe and aged in primary for almost 4 months. It's fantastic! I know I know it's supposed to sit even longer but listen, it already tastes good. Like a dry white wine, nicely chilled and it's perfect for summer...

Thanks paraordnance, that is reassuring to know. This is an American Wheat beer so I think the level of carbonation you mention will be just fine.

Yeah normally I bulk prime just had a brain fart this time. Glad I'm using these swing tops though, will make it much easier to fix my mistake. If it's not carbed exactly to style that's ok by me.

Thanks unionrdr, I'm going to use one Coopers per bottle.

So, on my 6th batch of beer (3rd partial mash) I made my first major ******* homebrew mistake: I forgot to add the priming sugar to my bottling bucket. Doh (I am going to kegs as soon as I can afford it)! But, fortunately I bottled the whole batch in recycled Grolsch swing-top bottles so I can...

I found this recipe in a separate thread and I want to make it but have a question about the 1 lb. of 2-row pale malt used in the steep. Why steep a pound of 2-row if you're not getting conversion? Is it just for flavor? Does it really make a difference or could it be left out? Thanks. 6lb...

Yeah, cold crash the bottles overnight or for a few days and the hops should settle out.

Very cool idea, might have to try this! http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2013/03/dry-hopped-bud-light.html?m=1

I just stole a taste of mine (orig. EdWort recipe) after exactly one month in the carboy and had to stop myself from drinking more. It's good already. Going to get the ingredients for a second batch tomorrow. :mug: