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I will second this- do not use a winch for overhead lifting, it is not meant for vertical lifts.

The keg or lines can't really dry out like a bottle if you keep them sealed under co2 pressure, don't worry about it man. :)

Honestly, I would RDWHAHB (or three all set to 12-14 PSI). I think 9 out of 10 people on HBT would agree. Otherwise, what you said would work too. Edit: Primary gauges can take tank pressure, secondary gauges cannot. Trying to hook up secondary gauges inline with a primary would be bad news...

Honestly I would stick to bottles. A liter bottle is only two pints, you get the worst of both (bottle and keg) if you keg at that size. If you want to get into co2 and don't want to spring for a 5lb + tank, you can get an adapter...

Welcome, Plenty of great homebrew shops in the Bay Area to choose from, welcome to your new addiction support group, ha.

I would hold out for whatever you can get locally easier- pin locks or ball locks. Northern's deal is good but not great. I would also call around before you buy a fancy aluminum co2 tank- you may have to end up swapping it for an ugly steel tank anyway if no one fills them around you. I...

Just double check the label says it's all honey- they actually have "honey flavored syrup" in a little bear shaped bottles at the dollar stores. :confused:

I'm going this route, small price to pay for easy assembly and disassembly.

Properly malted corn should be converted well enough, that's how the sprout gets its energy from the seed, right? You can definitley sprout whole field corn (even Walmart will have it in the nearest farm town) and give it a try. Not too much info on this site about corn mashes since it usually...

And here I thought the wife held that title... :ban:

http://www.farmhousebrewingsupply.com/accuflex-bev-seal-ultra-3-16-50/ The stuff seems like a pain to work with but it won't hold odors like vinyl tubing. You may be best just to get the stuff from the LHBS first since it is pretty cheap, and if you start upgrading move to that stuff. BUT...

Some thoughts: Think about upgrading beer line to Accuflex Bev-Seal, I haven't but will soon. keg lube- some like it some don't (I use it) for all keg mating surfaces, use sparingly Co2 doesn't go bad, only the tank certification expires ($$$) Just swap tanks when empty, don't bother to...

Sold.

What kind of lid are you building? Just curious since I've worked with one of those fridges, a keg fits great when you move the fan. Edit: Skip buying a kit with a tank unless you already know where you are going to get it filled, and not swapped for a junky steel one. Been there.

No worries. The only thing I wouldn't do is deep fry in it.

Clorox recommends anywhere from 1 tablespoon to 3/4 cup per gallon for cleaning, I would also start with a tablespoon. No problems if you rinse well. But I've switched to oxyclean instead of bleach for household stuff too since I can't seem to use bleach without getting it on ME :drunk:

DIY would get you a lot farther for your dollar if you are so inclined. I would go to a 15 gallon kettle (keg) though, if you are already heading all grain double batches won't be far.

I would buy the 5 gallon setup, it would be fine for 2.5 gallons. For kits I would just buy the 5 gallon, and grab an extra ingredient to brew two different beers: add fruit to second batch IPA/Black IPA Dry stout/sweet stout or buy a 5 gallon kit but modify and brew for 2.5 gallons (ale/pale...

I basically do the same thing, except with a nylon barbed piece from a racking cane. Works for me.

I'm already at 10 gallon batches, and I see larger in my future. I batch sparge Dennybrew style, so cash layout was minimal. If I was only doing 5 gallons at a time I would probably BIAB. How big of a grain bill can you do in a keggle with a 10 gallon batch?