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Brew kettle! Yay!

+1 on this. Pitch your yeast and don't transfer anywhere for at least 2 weeks. Unless I'm doing a complex beer like souring or oak/fruit aging, I don't bother with secondaries at all.

I've used many of the safale yeasts at 7 to 8%. Some i've gone to 10% or more. Your LHBS was right to suggest using two packs, so you under pitched, but at this point I'd leave it alone. It'll get there.

Literally just finished brewing in my garage (Cranberry ESB). I was like you. But as with everyone else, I crack the overhead door to about 1/3 of the way up, brew kettle goes right in the middle of the garage. Fire extinguisher just in case. No issues. It's sitting a little under 0 C outside...

Definitely swap them for stainless, but it's more aesthetics than anything else (i.e. mild metal taste). I highly doubt you'll even notice and it definitely won't hurt you. It's not really toxic unless you ingest a pretty good amount of it all at once (somewhere around 250 milligrams). Even if...

3 vols should be fine. But to be honest, I carbonate my saison to 2.5 to 2.7. If I go much above that, it's really hard to pour from a bottle and/or you need to extend your taps lines from the keg.

It probably won't be your best batch, but you're lucky it's a stout. Diacetyl is less obvious in malty beers since most would find it blends into the carmel flavours coming off of your roasted malts. You can definitely age it longer on the yeast cake (I.e in the primary). Us-05 is highly...

It's not a massive difference unless you're brewing with really hard water. That bring said I definitely noticed a difference when I started controlling mash pH and tweaking the water composition. My avg efficiency went from 68% to 74%. My beers also became a little more consistent...

As you noted this is a known predicament with 3724. But man, that yeast produces an amazing flavour profile. You have to get those temps up to get it tho. Agree with Flars that you should try the good old stir it up method first and, i would add, wrap a blanket with a couple of heated bottles of...

3.8 is maybe a little on the low side of normal, but I still consider it normal. The yeast are pumping out that co2 which dissolves itself in the beer and a fraction of it forms carbonic acid which is why the pH of beer is low. This effect would be strong in your beer since there were no...

Lots out there that work. As long as it kills the bad little critters it'll work for both beer and wine. Iodaphor included. Best advice I can give is to use a no-rinse one. My personal preference is StarSan. I've brewed many many different batches of beer, wine, mead, hybrids (e.g. braggot) and...

Your mash temps appear okay, I usually get my mashes up to the 168 to 170 area for sparging and try my best not to go above 170. I would agree that water chemistry seems to be the most likely culprit. 5.2 is fine for mash pH, there is a little flexibility in the ideal 5.2 to 5.6 range. I've...

Agree that it doesn't look right. The "white film" infection is a relatively common one, but I've had a few beers that looked a little off and were fine. I'd take a sample and taste it. Won't hurt you. If you don't mind, post back to let us know what it tastes like!

I've been a member since 2012 and have been brewing since 2010. I can't even count the number of times I've benefited from the experience of the members on the forums. I think I'm at the point now where I can start sharing some of my own experience. Looking forward to contributing! :mug:

Agree with the posters above. One of my buckets almost never seals completely.

Agreed on the sugar additions. Dextrose and sucrose completely ferment and also somewhat enhance the fermentation of other, more complex, sugars that are causing your high FG.

X2 to all of the above. Also had a fear of foam, but it won't hurt you or your brew.