Search results

I have the 15 inch with no stands, I've brewed with 15lbs+ of grain with no issues. With my set-up, I have no clearance problems ( I have a center diptube)...

I got a jaybird false bottom, use direct fired mash tun. Works great.

Or you can do an iodine test and finish your mash when its done

It depends. As long as you didn't make the bags to tight, you should be good. When I was starting out, I put the hops in a bag ( I don't care anymore) and put them into a nice little ball. Total loss of bitterness and flavor.

quite a while back, I was transferring from mash tun to boil kettle with a plastic bucket and noted a type of plastic flavor to my beers. Prior to moving to pumps, I changed to some stainless steel pots and that actually seemed to help.

How do you transfer your liquids between phases when you brew?

No matter the temp, at 30 minutes I just start doing an iodine test. You'd be surprised at how much time can be saved.

Interesting. So, if your mash temp is 152, you start low and once you are mashed in, you increase the temp? That works well for you?

make sure you not sparging too hot. Ask me how I know.

If you're direct firing (which I also do), you need 1.) to make sure you use a false bottom to keep the grains off of direct contact with the heat source and 2.) recirculate to avoid stratification of the mash temperature, otherwise all the heat will reside in the bottom portion of the mash.

you lie!!!

A couple years ago I lost 50 lbs off a 6' 235 pound starting point. Went from sedentaryish to placing in top 3 of a local 5K. Also pretty much took care of my apnea problem...it was real bad. For me, there was a few things that really helped. I used myplate to track my calories initially...

True, it's not technically deadspace. The way I look at it, in my system I have 2 gallons of water under the false bottom. During mash, as I recirculate, this water is always sitting under the grain and not really with it (yeah, the molecules of water change, but you get my point). Therefore...

Just replied.

When figuring your required H20 based on you quarts to lbs ratio, ie, 1,25 quarts to pound, take your total water required for mashing and then add in your deadspace volume. That will give you the proper mash thickness. It will also reduce your sparge water requirement. Let me know if you...

Mines a little different.....Rye ( a good price performer is Dickel and a proper mh is always rye), sweet vermouth, angostura and orange bitters......

Thanks! I've never really bothered to move my beer to a bottling bucket ( I actually keg) and never had this problem with my beer, always real clear. Interesting point about crashing and decanting, never would have thought of doing that.

I've been homebrewing for a while....so I've learned not to panic much... Anyway, the wife wanted to make some wine, so we went out and bought a Chard. kit. Everything went well, sample tastes good. It cleared nicely. Upon bottling, the siphon kicked up some sediment on the bottom, so some...

Totally agree. Munich is a great malt, I use it in a lot of my grainbills. Adds a reddish nice color too.

My experience is that, yes, it does impact both the aroma and bitterness of the hops. For the most part, I've been OK with that.