This look like a pretty good deal, I can get it shipped for free pick-up here in town
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Coil-Tubing-3ADD2
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Coil-Tubing-3ADD2
fill the tubing with sand cap it then bend it small stuff kinks very easy.
fill the tubing with sand cap it then bend it small stuff kinks very easy.
I bought one of those last year. Had the same thoughts as you.
All I can say is I hope you have better luck than me.
Great product, but I couldn't bend it without kinking. I tried 3 or 4 different tubing Henderson with no luck.
wilserbrewer said:Curious, how does one fill a 50' coil w/ sand?
Then what machine do you have to get in order to make it look good, I am thinking this time about going with copper, but down the road I want to be able to bend SS, not just for brewing, but for my boat too. Thanks
I would recommend just seeing if NY Brew Supply(where I got my chiller) or anyone else, will make it for you. It's not listed on their product page, but i'm quite sure they can do it, being that they are the ones selling the SS tubing on eBay. I personally prefer copper, but if you want the SS route, I'm sure they'll accommodate at a good price. http://www.nybrewsupply.com/wort-chillers.html
Very well said and I agree 100%All the links are for pipe benders.
They are calling it tube but the stuff they are bending is basically conduit or larger bore 1" + steel tubes
Tubing is a different animal
One review saying it would make a good boat anchor?
And here's a 50' SS for $70 + $13 S&H.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Super-E...ltDomain_0&hash=item439a3b0757#ht_1985wt_1396
There is a solution.
I coiled 35' of thin walled 1/2" stainless tubing to aproxamately to a 10" to 11" diameter. Without kinks!
A piping bender will not work as I tried that first. You will most likely need to use 90/45 degree compression fittings once coiled as it is to thin to bend.
I had to spend close to $400 for the tooling to do this. (I had already bought the SS tubing and did not want to use copper) (I am stubborn to boot)
FYI, once kinked, forever kinked. Probaly used up 10' of the tubing trying different methods. With my tooling now I can coil that tubing in about 20 minutes of work.
Mustangj said:Best yet!
That's 3/8" not 1/2" but still a good deal.
I'm using 50' x 3/8" with a chugger pump throttled back about 10-20% and I have excellent flow. I have a buddy that has 40' x 1/2" running a march 809 that needs to be restricted well over 50% to slow down his flow to achieve sufficient heat transfer. I also pump into the top of the coil, not sure if he does.A couple of things I learned when building my coil that may help others. I have done extensive testing and determined the following-
I use a Chugger pump to pump through my 40' X 1/2" heat exchanger coil and flow is restricted quite a bit. Approx 25-35%. All fittings, connections and tubing are a minimum 1/2" I.D. accept the heat exchanger tubing is .040mm smaller I.D. I would not have been happy with 3/8". I highly recommend 1/2" tubing over the 3/8" to achieve good flow.
Another way I improved flow through the heat exchanger is to pump into the coil at the top. This reduces head pressure and will increase flow. I was looking for the best flow possible because I use the heat exchanger for cooling as well as mashing and wanted to achieve a whirlpool in the boil kettle after leaving the coil.
I'm using 50' x 3/8" with a chugger pump throttled back about 10-20% and I have excellent flow. I have a buddy that has 40' x 1/2" running a march 809 that needs to be restricted well over 50% to slow down his flow to achieve sufficient heat transfer. I also pump into the top of the coil, not sure if he does.
What kind of GPM do you think you are achieving?
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