Recent content by tpeterseufl

That's all the roasted I have. Is there another way to get that? I have plenty of black patent. I could add more of that. Or can I toast/roast some two row? I also have some Munich. I really just don't have time to order more before I want to brew this.

Imperial Stout This is made with pretty much everything I have on hand. I don't really want to order anything else. Tell me why I shouldn't brew this. 3 gallon batch OG: 1.090 FG: 1.023 IBU: 81 ABV: 8.6% SRM: 33 Grains 8# two-row .2# roasted barley .2# Crystal 40L .2# Crystal...

So if I cut the cascade and amarillo in half, you think that would be more balanced? Are the hop varieties OK? Thanks for your response.

Looking for your thoughts on an oatmeal brown ale. I know this won't be close to Surly Bender, but that beer inspired me. What do you think? 3 gallon batch OG: 1.053 IBU: 32 SRM: 17 4# two row .5# munich .3# Crystal 40 .1#Crystal 60 .2# Chocolate malt .4# Rolled oats .3 oz...

I might try toasting some. Would that help simulate MO? I toasted some for a 60-minute IPA clone. That should be ready for sampling about the time I'm ready to brew. If it ends up tasty, maybe I'll try it again. Thanks for the comments.

Thanks for the responses. I'm pretty sure the cooler I use is too big for the small batches I make. I wonder if the air in the cooler makes it harder to maintain my temperature. But it apparently has nothing to do with grist ratio (whichever way it goes!)?

Here's what seems like a convoluted question. My last few beers have attenuated more than I had in mind. I have heard that a smaller grist ratio, like 1.25 pounds per quart, give more body and less of a dry beer. When I lowered my grist ratio, I seem to have a harder time maintaining mash...

I'm trying to use what I have on hand to make a decent best bitter. I want a good beer, but I'm not overly concerned about keeping true to style. I want to save my fuggles or EKG for flavor/aroma, so I'm bittering with Magnum. I don't have Marris Otter, so I'm hoping Munich and Vienna will at...

Hannable, I found that link too. When he told me he found the recipe, I was excited, thinking of Koch's (phony?) story of finding his grandfather's recipe. When I saw the recipe, I was disappointed. I might just tell him it's not worth our time and I'll make him something better.

So a friend of mine stumbled on an old recipe in his grandmother's recipe book. It's for bootleg beer from the 1920s. He'd like to try to make it. Here's what the recipe says: 1 can of Blatz malt 1 compressed yeast 1 cup sugar 5 gal. water Warm 1 gal. water and dissolve malt. Stir into...

The clone of Summit EPA, one of my favorite beers, in BYO calls for an addition of cascade and fuggles at 30 minutes. That may have led me astray. I'm done with 30 min additions from now on. Thanks for the advice.

Hmmm...I always thought the 30 min. addition was the ideal flavor time. Was I misguided?

I'm looking for some more experience brewers to critique my pale ale. I make 3-gallon, brew-in-the-bag batches. 6# two row .25# Crystal 40 .25# Munich .33oz. centennial 60 min .33oz. centennial 30 min .33oz. centennial 1 min Nottingham yeast. OG ~ 1.055 IBU~40 I know...

I tried hard to keep the temperature around 65. The sample tasted pretty good, but a little warm. I suppose some aging will help it mellow. It sounds like a healthy amount of yeast can really do some damage in a short amount of time. The more I brew, the more amazed I am by those things.

So I pitched a barley wine onto a US-05 yeast cake. It was only a 2-gallon batch, and the cake was from a 3-gallon batch of an American amber. The airlock pretty much stopped after 72 hours. I took a hydrometer reading, and the 1.096 OG barley wine is down to 1.018. Should I be concerned with...