Recent content by tektonjp

How about recipe threads where the reply is: I brewed one exactly like this, except I subbed this hop, used this yeast instead, and changed out the malt bill. Hmmm, have you googled "exactly" lately?

The site doesn't have a picture, but the center of the tray has like a 4-5 cm round hole for air flow and that hole has a ring around it, slightly higher than the plane of the actual tray. Other models I looked at had a much higher ring in the center, which would have made dryer yeast a bit...

This one has a fan, but no timer. I put it on the lowest setting and the yeast was dried in 8 hours. Pretty straight forward. I like that the center cut out in the tray is not raised very high; that allows me to keep using wax paper "trays" easily for yeast drying. I've done two batches and I...

This one just arrived. https://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B07GXBHB54/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Lowest setting is 35c, so that should be just about right I think. Making wax paper trays will be a bit of a challenge, but should work out. I'll keep you posted on how it...

I had some small packets of DME for Kviek starters (no nutrient, although now that I think about, if I add a pinch, that would be a good product!) This was the product blurb (now out of stock) "30g of DME added to 200ml of water will give you a 1.050 starter for your dried Kveik yeast." I'll...

Yeah, it has gotten dusty, probably due to the FB groups. Scott here, the Malt Shop guy, in Shiga. But you can sometimes find me in Nagano too at Lake Nojiri lounging at my brew cabin!

I'm posting a diagram because I'm a visual guy. I'm guessing your situation is the top drawing. The grain is drawn in, but is basically sitting in the center chamber churning around. Why? There's a gap it could go through. BUT, IDLE 1 has no power to overcome the opposing direction of IDLE 2...

Had this problem. And I found that the instruction book from MM had the wrong advice (unless I misunderstood). Grain just sat on top, wouldn't feed thru. The problem is the gaps. Top gap is fixed. But you must make sure that the gap between the two non-drive rollers is smaller than the gap...

From what I understand of the process of bottle carbonation, because you are cranking up the yeast again with additional sugar, what oxygen that has been introduced will be consumed by the yeast doing their thing. No need to get over involved in the process.

brewbama is right. There are some blanks to fill in. And you need to think backwards to calculate all this. Amount you want to bottle + trub left in fermenter +tub left in kettle +boil off amount +amount absorbed by grain equals how much water your brew day needs. for example Amount you want...

Sorry, trouble getting any text entered. I would suggest you get some Kviek yeast. Yeah, I know it's liquid. But... it kicks a** at temps as high at 35c. And you can easily top crop harvest and dry the yeast yourself for use again.

Lautering? Steeping is the method used in conjunction with extract brewing. There is no mash process so to speak. Efficiency here is based upon the amount of extract used.

I would put in about half the LME at the beginning. Extraction of the hop oils is help with wert (that's why you don't boil hops all by themselves). Then add the second half before chilling so it gets dissolved well and sanitized. Then top up your water wafter chilling and transferring.

Looks good. Thanks for your efforts!

Don't know of any homebrewers, but there's Atsugi Beer, brewed by Mochizuki san. He's a good customer of my shop.