Recent content by matthewkbridges

Thanks, Yooper! I'll give it a shot as-is this time and get it right next time.

What would happen if you subbed in chocolate for the pale chocolate? I screwed up my order at the LHBS, and all of the non-base grains are mixed up together, so at this point I'm kinda screwed if it'll really affect the beer. Yooper, any thoughts? What would the final product taste like?

Thanks for the advice. I think I'll find another use for this motor.

Hey there HBT, I have a Crankandstein 2A that I'd like to motorize. I have a motor from a dishwasher pump, and I'm wondering if it's got enough 'oomph' to turn it. Here's the specs (taken off of the motor label): 3110 RPM (I would of course use pulleys to take this down to <300 RPM) 115 V...

BrewMasters Warehouse has silicone tubing for 2.10 a foot. It's a great deal, and will handle boiling without a problem.

I didn't take an initial OG, so I only have my mid-fermentation hydrometer and refractometer readings. Beersmith has a tool where you can enter a hydrometer and refractometer reading (taken at the same time) and it will tell you what the attenuation is, the alcohol, and an estimate of the OG...

Thanks in advance for putting up with yet another newb question. I brewed a Belgian Dark Strong about two weeks ago. Here's the recipe: http://beerdujour.com/Recipes/Jamil/Jamils_BelgianStrongDarkAle.html I used two vials of WLP570 in a 1.5L starter. I've never had problems with...

Brew Depot on Mansell usually has some in the more common sizes. Give them a call and see if they have what you need.

Instead of wiring directly to a plug, wire to a switch, then to a plug. Mount the switch and pump to some kind of secure base (you *are* keeping your pump safe from drips, right?), and don't forget your GFCI!

I've used both. I started with a Zymie braid, and then moved to a CPVC manifold. The manifold was faster flowing without sticking and cleared faster during vorlauf. The braid/mesh was easier to deal with (I didn't glue my manifold, so I could pull it apart to clean it each time). Overall...

I think one of the most overlooked aspects of this thread is the idea of market size. Some people have alluded to it, but let's take a look at some numbers: The AHA estimates that there are at least 750,000 people who brew at least once a year at home. The AHA itself has 19,000 members. In...

Yes, you pretty much can. If you look at the product page, it includes the chuck-to-ball-lock adapter to make that work. Just pop the disconnect off of your keg, snap the adapter on it, charge a bottle, and then remove the adapter and put the disconnect back on the keg. Easy peasey.

You can get four of them (or at least an equivalent product) for $20 from Crankandstein. It's a great deal, a lot of people in my local brew club use them. Full disclosure, I occasionally work for Don (Dr. Crankandstein) turning metal for the mills.

I haven't had a problem with mine. I've seen it happen if your hose isn't stiff enough. Get the stiffest hose you can find. Also, heat up the hose in hot water so that you can push the stone further into the hose. Once it has cooled it should stay secure. If you want to test your theory...

I haven't, but then again I also limit contact. Kegs should be relatively easy to clean; they don't have a lot of crud in them like primaries, they shouldn't have extended contact like (some) secondaries, etc. It should just be clean beer in them. I've done oxy before, but really it's not...