Recent content by LordUlrich

Pbw will lose some effectiveness pretty quickly (minutes?) Some is stable for a long time. I would just try to use less. I use about a half gallon to a gallon for most cleanup, unless something is really bad and needs a soak.

Sour is usually infected. I'd dump it.

Sure there are infections that will not impart any visual changes from a normal fermentation. The yeast we use was once wild, just like the stuff we don't want (although many millions of generations have passed). Can you describe the off flavor?

I think it is worth mentioning that while the Tinseth formula is good, it is just an empirical model. It does break down at high IBU values and low boil times. While it is interesting, and good model, it is still an empirical model with limitations. I highly recomend listing to the Brew...

I think it is worth mentioning that while the Tinseth formula is good, it is just an empirical model. It does break down at high IBU values and low boil times. While it is interesting, and good model, it is still an empirical model with limitations. I highly recomend listing to the Brew...

Being as you are not running the freezer at below freezing temps, it should not be a problem. In fact the way most temp control units work, the frost free function is basically useless.

My suggestion is to replace the line. At some point trying to clean the lines is going to cost more than installing a new line. Unless you have something like Brewmaster II glass lines, very strong flavors will leach into the lines.

Not really related to the question you asked, but I wanted to make sure you don't plan to use the burner inside. Those style of burners are not meant to be used inside, they do not combust as fully as a stove burner, and output carbon monoxide.

My best guess is too much inlet restriction. Try getting rid of the elbow on the inlet and instead using a sweeping curve with your hose on the pump inlet.

I would treat it just like any beer line. Clean it with pbw and then starsan. Drain out what you can and blow out a bit more to get most of the water. An air compressor should be OK, just don't use oiled air.

During the early spring I recirculate ice water after knocking down the temp with tap water. I also only bother when I have tons of free ice piled up in the yard. It does speed up chilling a lot.

You should be able to use the barrels until they wear out (leak). If you get an infection the barrel is pretty hard to sanatize though. Also you will get less flavor as time goes on. The first one or two will pickup lots of whisky, later beers will be more oak/ slow oxidation flavors.

8 or 9 gallons should be OK. You could consider using a pump to recirculate your ice water and use an immersion chiller instead of an ice bath. 5 gallons in an ice bath is a bit of a problem. Also part of the up side to a ball valve is not having to lift the kettle, which an ice bath negates.

Sounds like a bad outlet to me, did you try a different outlet as suggested above?

Most brass has lead, it make it easier to machine threads and similar features. The reality is the amount of lead is so small that you could eat all the lead in most fittings at one sitting and not have any problems. Lead has a really bad name but the reality is that lead is most harmful to...