Atlanta Area
Everything you need to step up to all grain brewing including:
- 10 gallon mash tun
- 10 gallon SS Wimco pot with heat distribution
- 6.5 gallon glass fermenter (the thick ones they used to make)
- 5.0 gallon glass secondary (thick one)
- Bayou Classic burner with regulator and...
I built this a couple years ago. It can fit 4 kegs inside plus a 10 lb CO2 tank (included in sale). It's been good and never had any issues.
Looking to get $600 OBO. I'll throw in a Blichmann beer gun with the purchase and sum extra o-rings and gaskets.
Gas is hooked up so 3 kegs can receive...
Since I created this post I have brewed hundreds of batches so it's funny to see my noob session from so long ago. 3068 is an ale yeast. I love this yeast and to ferment it around 67. To answer my own original noob concerns, you should make a starter if you have the means. This yeast makes a...
I placed an order on Friday and these guys still haven't shipped. I tried to call them today and their phone says they are closed for the "holiday". Anyone live in Austin and know what is going on with these guys? It is not like then to be delayed this much on my order.
May be a pH issue in your mash. That would give a harshness taste similar to the alcohol taste you describe. Consider using phosphoric acid at least in your sparge water and possibly in your primary mash as well. Use around a 1/4 tspn per 4 gallons of water or so if you are only using RO. This...
You guys are waaaaaaay to paranoid about using a secondary. Use it when you need to, make sure once the beer is siphoning you get your hose submerged, and it's all good. I've secondary-ed many many times and never had an issue with oxidation.
I'll ask the obvious question... How long did you let it ferment in the first place? Also, what was the OG
My guess is it fully fermented. RIS is very strong and will have a higher FG than your typical beer. The lingering strong tastes and extra residual sugar may give the impression that it...
Yeah dude, you are way overthinking.
To answer your question, your beer is not ruined by racking to secondary.
For future, it is absolutely unnecessary to rack to secondary unless dry hopping or adding special spices... Maybe for extended aging for a barley wine or something. Otherwise, don't...
If your starter is fermenting within 24 hours you should be fine. Typically when you wash yeast you get like 300-400 billion cells at least, so my guess is you got plenty. I will typically split my wash into 2 jars and make a batch with each. I would not ferment warm with this particular yeast...
Cold crash benefits are really only seen in kegging. The natural carbing will generate more sediment than what is in solution right now. If you want beer clarity (I'm talking super clear) and you are bottling, you really have to let the beer sit in a fridge undisturbed for like 3 weeks.
You will aerate the beer too much if you leave the nylon bag above the surface. Instead, start siphoning the beer through the nylon bag and then still allow a portion of the nylon bag and the hose to stay below the beer surface in the bottling bucket. You will have to use a big nylon bag for...
For future reference, for standard American ales with Cali or similar yeast that don't need dry hopping, you can get away with 2-2.5 weeks in the primary and bottle. The darker the ale, typically the less conditioning time required.