Recent content by frankktankk

Perfekt combo! Voss and Nelson Sauvin make perfect match. I've tried different combos. Ferment hot and put the "dry hops" in at high krausen, beer ready for keg 2 days after. I would reduce the IBU abit.

About 65C 10days, I fed it some wort boiled down with sugar at day 3 to help it along.

I've used Dry Belgian Ale from The Yeast Bay on a high og (1.12) brew, it ate all, almost fg 1.005.

If starter size is limited and using the same vessel for stepping up, innoculation rate may become a problem So removing 9/10 of the slurry and adding 9/10 of wort for step 2 and on would make sense. That said, it is not how I do it, I do it the other way and waste some starter wort, it is more...

I use brewers friend and "Braukaiser - Stirplate" and always assume that I have 1B cells (1%), then it should never be an underpitch. If an "exact" pitchrate is requested, a cell count is needed (microscope, colour and hemocytometer).

Maillard needs high pH, caramelization low pH. When the water is boiled off the temperature goes up an the first sugars get caramelized (or maillard depending on pH), the higher the temp more of the sugars get caramelized, maltose is last to convert. The low pH is catalyzing the reaction...

I'm about to make som elderflower syrup for lemonade. Some of the syrup will go in a blonde ale at peak of fermentation. How to kill the wild yeast and bacteria in the syrup without loosing to much of the flavour?

What procedure was used for the dryhop? I agree to exclude the carapils, just up the pilsner malt to compensate. I'm soon about to dryhop a lager.

I use Wyeast 2000 (Budwar Lager) as my house strain. I've used it from Doppelbocks 1.090/1.030 to Lite lager 1.035/1.000 with great taste as a result, so I think it's flexible but consistent. Next up is a IIPL, aiming for 1.072/1.012.

Usually I start with 1l + 100g DME and after 24-36h I add 0.5l and 150g DME (boiled 15mins or sterilized) for a 2l E-flask.

Brewed a Honey lite lager (OG 1.037) yesterday. Warning! Don't put honey in boiling water, it can be very dangerous. I thought it was a good way to kill the bugs in the honey by using boiling water, just move it of the heat and add the honey. Pasteurising the honey that way. What happened...

A starter in perfect conditions (impossible at home?) would be adding 0 generations and a normal brew 1 generation. A standard starter with stirplate is between 0 and 1 depending on many factors (temp, nutrients, fraction of different sugars, etc). I'd say 0.5 in my yeastlab (kitchen).

Tests that are the basis for braukaiser are from multible sorces (http://braukaiser.com/blog/blog/2012/11/03/estimating-yeast-growth/) and white is a trial without stirring, so I belive that with stirplate braukaiser gives best practical results. I try to keep initial cells per extract below 1.5...

I would start with 1l (using 100g dme) then add 0.5l (using 150g dme) after about24h if the viability is 50-100%. That would be quite ok for 20-25l of 1.09 OG wort, if you use a stirplate. (Braukaiser)

I get 2l extra boil off, oh noes! And using 1.5kWh extra electric energy, that is money to vapour! ;) I would not boil less then 90mins on any brew. Good writing! :)