You ask why chance it, because the beer actually tastes better without all the trub and hop debris. It is safer than moving the beer from the primary to the secondary as far as oxygenation and infections go. Not that I am being offensive, but Knoxville has its share of wild yeast and other beer...
There is so little that it usually is not an issue, probably a 1/2 inch and active fermentation. Most of the trub and hop debris is usually dropped out within the first 36 hours.
I re read your grain bill. With that amount of rye malt in the grain bill, I would use a single decoction mash from the protein rest to get to the rest at either 145 or 152. The reason being the rye malt has a higher probability of needing the starch in the husks made accessible to the enzymes...
Just made a beer with the Mandarina hops and Red X. I mashed the Red X with Golden Promise malt. The wort smelled great and was just the right color. It is still in the fermenter and will be for the next few (10) days.
I generally do a diacetyl rest when my beer has reach about 75% of the terminal gravity from the original gravity. Many brewers do not feel they need to do one but being sensitive to diacetyl, I do one as a preventive step. Good luck with what ever you decide.
I have been using the HERMS system for several years and still sometimes get a stuck mash. What I have found is to avoid this is to slowly start with the flow with a slow trickle and have the valve barely open to create back pressure on the output side of the pump. Even when the recirculating...
I have been using milk crates for over 20 years. They work great and can save a lot of issues, such as a broken carboy that slips out of your hand while full of completely fermented beer. I know.
I might be late to the party about the tri-clover to canning jar thread, however, I have mine in use for the second time this month and it is well designed in form and function. The first beer brewed that this was used with the fermenter was and Belgian IPA based on a wit. The first week we had...
I am impressed that FranklinNewhart has been brewing since the 50's, WOW. I have moved up the size of beer volume in recent years. The issue was / and is boil over at the start of the boil / hot break. This past weekend I had an almost 14 gallons in a keggle with first wort hopping. No boil...
I asked because I have my system setup so it is hard to reach the control of the boil burner with not a lot of excessive head space with a 60 quart pot. It is a dual burner hermsI system I designed in the mid 80's. The boil usually last at least 90 minutes and a lot of evaporation takes place...
I am getting older and brewing a larger volume of beer. I am wondering how others control the wort hot break or boil over? I am still moving the wort off the heat and letting it settle back down before placing back on the heat source. At 65+ and over 14 gallons of wort, I must say it is getting...
In my herms system the hot water in the HLT is used to sparge the mash. I also step the temp up and circulate the wort to the mash out temperature before beginning the sparge.