Recent content by BadWolfBrewing

Forgot about fuzzy logic. This one is a pretty vague term. On a technical level, it refers to the blending of multiple control laws based on the state of the system. An example would be two different PID controllers controlling the same system. One is used when the system is first warming...

Any word on fitting the press-fit option in stout-tanks? That domed bottom creates a silly amount of dead-space, and I always have to tip the boil kettle significantly at the end. I'll measure tonight, if it looks like it fits I'll pick up one and post the results. As always, thanks for the...

Electro-mechanical engineer. I do research for vehicle electrification for one of the big 3 american auto companies.

This is nice to hear, I think I'm in the same boat. I had a blast building my 3v system w\ controller, but it makes for a LONG brew day with all the cleaning, sparging, and the SLOW ramp times of a HERMS system. I'm moving to Ann Arbor soon, I might try to sell my rig then. The CO system...

I think he's right. I have a HERMS system, and a year ago had major problems while brewing a wit. The recirculation was mostly blocked due to the grain bed so I was only recirculating something like a pint a minute. To make up for it (after having too many beers), I just cranked the HLT...

If you aren't going to get a new pot, the binder clip idea seems solid. New pot is a good idea though. I look at these things like this: I'm probably going to upgrade eventually, so why not just buy it now. That way I get to enjoy it for a longer period of time.

Right, many inductive loads (like motors) will have a large inrush current due to the starter capacitor. Resistive loads are better behaved.

They are sort of independent of each other. It has to be able to break/block X amount of volts safely, and it has to be able to conduct Y amount of amps safely. I.e., it works for 240V/30a. I'd be it works for high current as well, but don't test it.

I'll chime in with my 2 cents (why not). I think the stildragon kit is the easiest route to go to meet what the OP wants. For safety, I'd also add a switch, just to be able to mechanically kill the power completely. Lowes Depot sells a switch that will work...

I leave it on there because I forgot about it. Usually it ferments. Then, gets infected, then gets smelly. Then I get yelled at. I'm not sure it is always a great representation of what is happening in the bucket.

I've been thinking about a similar idea. Sorry, I don't have a drawing. The idea is to combine HERMS and RIMS equipment. Instead of an HLT with a heating element in it, just use a small 1 gallon pot with an inlet and outlet. Water pot --> RIMS --> CFC --> water pot...

I've made beers that were pretty tasty straight out of the fermenter, so I get it. I have a Pliny clone on tap now that is fantastic the instant it gets close to carbed up, and you want to drink it ASAP. I have an RIS on tap that gets better with every passing month. Two extreme examples, but...

Yeah, that stuff is great. It also helps passivate the SS on your kettle to prevent rust (yes, SS can rust). I use it for our pots and pans too when they need a good scrubbing. You should get in the habit of washing with BKF every 6 months or so, it keeps a nice protective layer going...

Unrelated, but where did you find those tiny buckets to catch drips? This would be super handy to have.

I have a much larger fan well away from the hood (also a giant mixing bowl), its about a foot from the window vent hole and horizontally aligned. There's maybe 10 feet of 6" ducting and 2 elbows in between. I still get a lot of dripping most of the time from the fan housing. I just put a...