Recent content by amandabab

they real key to this is to be absolutely sure that the keg seals at low pressure, otherwise it will never carb.

so far the times listed aren't any better than a standard coil IC with a slow flow at 1/2 to 1/3 the price.

you need a cut thats 90 degrees to the threads and a good sealing area. a nut threaded on the shank before the cut to clean up the treads is a good idea. I'd try to do it on a abrasive disk miter/chop saw (new blade with no contamination). A new SS shank might be cheaper than a new blade.

use a drill with a actual Jacobs keyless chuck (dewalt, milwalkee, makita) or a drill with a keyed chuck.

I do it, but disconnect the gas after it starts. the co2 blanket is there, and gravity will finish it.

since the cooler is often the cheapest part in a cooler mash tun. let it warp in a few years and swap the hardware.

I've added the starsan spray bottle to the process, but it hasn't replaced any sterilization procedures.

we all like gadgets and tests. But you can tell more just by looking at the top of the mash than an iodine test will tell. It's just pointless procedure.

if he's using a large cooler, with a lot of heat lost on pre-heat, not checking the preheat, a shallow grain bed and fly sparging the rectangular cooler could produce results not as good as a deep round. but all things being equal, the enzymes don't really care if there are corners or not.

$400 is way too much. I'd rather have a $180 new freezer, 10-20 year known lifespan and a $100 yearly power bill and be able to truly lager, use more than one fermentor, store kegs, dispense, and in a pinch turn it down and freeze things.

LD carlson moves a lot of grain. A very large portion of grain not labeled LD Carson has been through some part of their distributor system. there are only 2 major wholesalers to the homebrew trade in the US, Fermemtap and LD Carson.

bayou classic sq-14. good burner, cheap and will support a keg.

it IS a keg, or cask if you prefer. its for natural carbing aka camra style. you can pour from the spout or hook a 1/2 pint pull beer engine to it. full pint engine tend to pull more that the vent can handle.

40-50% of new retail if it in excellent condition. why not just buy a bag and use what you have? see if you even like BIAB first.

seriously, consider taking a SS perlick on the road. a short shank, a small piece of board or thick plastic to mount it in (also acts as a small stand). its SS, it gets dropped, hose it off. its SS, it gets stepped on, hose it off its SS, if it gets used as a bottle opener, it just gets...