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Old 03-06-2012, 01:36 AM   #121
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Lookin good brother. Do the PID displays have a wave effect on them or is it just the frame rate?

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Old 03-06-2012, 02:07 AM   #122
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Lookin good brother. Do the PID displays have a wave effect on them or is it just the frame rate?
Frame rate.. sorry bout that!
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Old 03-06-2012, 02:08 AM   #123
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You have a switch to change PIDs to manual mode? Isn't it just a button on the screen to do that?
Yes there is a Manual Mode on the PID.. It turns the burner on and off based on time cycles.. ignors temp.. The PID mode and Manual mode can be switched with the push of one button on the PID.. A/M.. If you set it to run in "on-off" (relay or contact) mode then you cannot switch over to manual or PID.. The 3 position switches I have below each PID are to choose what controls the burners, the PID, off or forced on (Manual on, IOW Overides the PID and turns the burner on now).. hope that cleared that part up.
auberpid.jpg  
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Old 03-06-2012, 02:18 AM   #124
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Yeah, that makes sense. Are you using it for when you're boiling? Seems a bit unnecessary when you can just set the PID to 210 or what have you and then drop down to 80%, 60% whatever is needed in manual mode to maintain boil. Not trying to tell you how to do your rig, it's nicer than mine . Just trying to understand.

And I guess the bottom line really is that an extra toggle switch and what not is nickels and dimes in the grand scheme of these builds. Maybe your on-mode helps not having to fiddle with the buttons for a lot of the brewday.

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Old 03-06-2012, 12:53 PM   #125
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Yeah, that makes sense. Are you using it for when you're boiling? Seems a bit unnecessary when you can just set the PID to 210 or what have you and then drop down to 80%, 60% whatever is needed in manual mode to maintain boil. Not trying to tell you how to do your rig, it's nicer than mine . Just trying to understand.

And I guess the bottom line really is that an extra toggle switch and what not is nickels and dimes in the grand scheme of these builds. Maybe your on-mode helps not having to fiddle with the buttons for a lot of the brewday.
Yea for the boil I just set it to 211 on/off mode and it kept it simmering nicely, turned off occasionally. I was told by Auber to use the manual mode for the boil and I did try it but since I heat my strike water in the BK (while I heat the HLT to Mash (HEX) temp) I just left it in on/off mode the whole brew day. (changing to PID/Manu would require going thru the settings and IMO during Brewing thats a PITA)

Having the HOA switches is nice for several reasons. It's great for safety since I can kill the flame any time. Also if I accidentlly left the PID in Auto mode and emptied the kettle, it would heat waaaay up and melt my soldered fittings. So I like the shut off to prevent that. Its useful for testing too and forcing the burners on, and if I want to simply get up to temp without any cycling of the burners.

I'm def all about keeping it simple
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Old 03-17-2012, 03:05 AM   #126
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where's you get your handles?

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Old 03-17-2012, 01:40 PM   #127
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where's you get your handles?
On the control panel?
Home depot in the cabinetry department
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Old 03-17-2012, 01:46 PM   #128
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oh, makes sense, lol

i'm about to start my single tier in a week or so. lot of great ideas from yours!

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Old 03-17-2012, 01:52 PM   #129
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oh, how did your bleeder valves on your pumps work? did any wort get thru them?

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Old 03-17-2012, 08:58 PM   #130
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oh, how did your bleeder valves on your pumps work? did any wort get thru them?
yes wort comes out of them when I pull the cable but so does the air.. I might lose a table spoon of wort.. Ive used this method for about 1 year (20 batches) already with good result
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