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Old 02-04-2013, 05:37 PM   #21
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Hmmmm...... "Salvage Brewing Co." - I like the sound of it! Some people just don't recognize fine junk when they see it!
Thanks. $$$ spent on brew stand thus far: $0
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:11 PM   #22
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I had a chance to do some more work in SketchUp (I'm getting the hang of it).



Here are the stand-offs I will use for the top. I am thinking 1/2" copper because I have some.




I picked up some 3/4" copper this weekend, plucked out of the walls of my brother-in-law's house in mid-renovation status. I plan to use this to make a manifold for the LP and also as conduit for the pump controls. I think the shined-up copper and stainless will look nice next to each other and they will have very low galvanic rates (probably not an issue, but it's how my brain works). I haven't looked into the copper lp manifolds, so 3/4" may be too large. However, I see a lot of stands using the frame as a manifold....so 3/4" should not be any different.

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Old 02-05-2013, 05:04 PM   #23
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Okay, I'm starting to get the finalized stand dimensions together. I mentioned a few times about my need for a mobile stand....as in travel across town or to brew club events, etc.

So.....here's my idea (that I haven't seen anyone do before)....and yes, that is an accurate model of my truck, hitch mount is 23" from bottom to ground.


This is how I plan to get it in the hitch:


Another view:


All packed up and ready to travel:




My only question is, do you guys think that 11 ga 2" stainless tubing will be strong enough in the above configuration to travel that way? I have another configuration in my head, but it involves getting adapters for the 2" hitch and a solid hitch to go between the truck and inside the stainless tubing.

Let me know what you guys think.

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Old 02-05-2013, 07:54 PM   #24
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If it is properly welded, yes...you could probably drive a bus over 12ga 2" stainless. If it is just the stand and burner, it'll be no problem at all. I would however put the hitch point lower by the wheels. The way you have it right now puts the casters way down below the hitch...any steep drive or bump could send the back of it into the ground. Then you may have a problem. if the hitch point is low it'll keep the whole thing up higher and safe from scraping the ground. Also, look into how Yakima and some other bike rack companies secure hitches from wobbling by using threads inside the hitch bar and a bolt to hold it all tight. Give you a little bit of extra peace of mind.

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Old 02-05-2013, 08:07 PM   #25
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Maybe make a pivot mount so you leave it on the ground, hook it up and then pivot it up and lock it.

That would put the wheels pointing backwards and make it easier to hook and unhook.

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Old 02-05-2013, 08:09 PM   #26
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If it is properly welded, yes...you could probably drive a bus over 12ga 2" stainless. If it is just the stand and burner, it'll be no problem at all. I would however put the hitch point lower by the wheels. The way you have it right now puts the casters way down below the hitch...any steep drive or bump could send the back of it into the ground. Then you may have a problem. if the hitch point is low it'll keep the whole thing up higher and safe from scraping the ground. Also, look into how Yakima and some other bike rack companies secure hitches from wobbling by using threads inside the hitch bar and a bolt to hold it all tight. Give you a little bit of extra peace of mind.
Thanks for the info. They way it is now, there is 12" between the casters and the ground. I had thought about just putting the hitch mount portion under the center frame. This would give me an extra 2" of clearance. I will play around with a few configurations and see what I can come up with (I'm digging SketchUp right now).

I was thinking for stability, just throwing two ratchet straps from the chain loops to the outside upper corners. This would would pull both down and in to the receiver for added peace-of-mind. I will check out the Yakima-type mounts. though.

Thanks for the info!
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Old 02-05-2013, 08:17 PM   #27
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Also, look into how Yakima and some other bike rack companies secure hitches from wobbling by using threads inside the hitch bar and a bolt to hold it all tight. Give you a little bit of extra peace of mind.
Seems like this Anti-Rattle Ring would be easy to make for less than $25!
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Old 02-05-2013, 08:20 PM   #28
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Maybe make a pivot mount so you leave it on the ground, hook it up and then pivot it up and lock it.

That would put the wheels pointing backwards and make it easier to hook and unhook.
Wayne, I'm having difficulty visualizing your idea? Got another explanation or specific example that I can search for?

Edit: Is this what you are thinking? Except, the stand would swivel up, so wheels/bottom face away from the tailgate?


Thanks,
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Old 02-05-2013, 08:43 PM   #29
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Second idea for mounting....




I like the idea of the swivel mount though...

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Old 02-05-2013, 09:30 PM   #30
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I have a hitch hauler for my little family SUV... a word of advise is needed here.

If you park in a parking lot with this attached to your truck, PLEASE park FAAAAAAAR away from anywhere remotely possible for anyone else to park near you. I have had my hitch hauler backed into more times than I care to remember.
I'm glad it has all kinds of bolts projecting out of it and I hope those bolts terribly defaced the paint job on those cars! I have YET to have someone leave a note so much as saying they were sorry... A hitch hauler is one thing... I would HATE to see anyone's brew stand torn up from the idiots that are allowed to operate complex machinery on public infrastructure!

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