more keezer issues

As I posted in an earlier thread I am in process of rebuilding my keezer. I actually have one beer tapped but am getting LOTS of foam. I have 10 feet of 3/16 tubing and the pressure is at 12 PSI.. I am getting a blast of foam then clear beer. when I open the keezer top I can actually see the line with bubbles in it. Almost like it is seeping air into the line but a leak would go OUT not in... If the beer was over carbed I would get foam the entire way...temp of the keezer is 3-5 degrees C... Any suggestions?

It looks like the beer is not only over-carbed, but your serving pressure (in my opinion) is way too high for just 10ft of beer line.

Turn off the CO2 tank. Bleed the pressure from the keg. Turn down the regulator to 4-6 PSI and turn tank on to get the pressure in that range. See what that does.

If it is still foamy, turn the tank off and bleed the keg of pressure for the next two days (while keeping the tank off). This will help equalize the carbonation, at least somewhat.

I thought the 3/16 was supposed to work with way shorter lines? I will give it a try

3/16 is the standard, but works best at 10 ft and more intervals. You've got a good length, but too high a pushing pressure. I run 20 ft lines on my keezer (kept coiled and zip tied), and rarely go above 8 PSI. Just for a frame of reference.

Aaron

Ok turned down the pressure no foam but barely a trickle of beer

Wont turning down the pressure that low give me underdarbed beer?

I completely disagree with Keystone. 10-12' of 3/16" ID line is what many, many people use without a problem, and 12 PSI @ ~4 deg C is perfect. 8 PSI (as Keystone suggests) is only about 2.1 volumes of CO2 at 4 deg C, which is rather low for most styles of beer. And 8 psi through 20 feet of standard (non-barrier) 3/16" ID tubing would be a very slow pour indeed.

12 PSI with 10 feet of 3/16" ID line should be fine. You don't want to turn the pressure down, or yes your beer will lose carbonation. Having it at a lower pressure will also make it "overcarbed" relative to the current pressure, which will result in more foaming until everything is equalized.

Try this (with is back at 12 PSI): Pour a foamy glass of beer, then immediately pour another glass. Is the second glass also foamy?

Chances are the first "burst" is foamy because the lines and faucets are significantly warmer than the keg, so CO2 is coming out of solution. This is a very common problem, mostly with draft towers. If this is the case, you can install a small PC fan in the keezer to help keep the air moving and prevent temperature stratification. Without the fan, the cooler air will settle and the top of the keezer can be 5+ degrees warmer than the bottom.

I should add that I'm assuming the beer isn't overcarbonated at 12 PSI. How'd you carbonate it? If you used the "set and forget" method at 12 PSI you should be good. If you used a burst carb method, there's a chance that it's overcarbed and that could be the issue.

Thanks....30 psi shake for 5 mins...cold beer. So teah I think over carbed keg.

i shake for 2 minutes @ 30 psi, no problems.

Thanks....30 psi shake for 5 mins...cold beer. So teah I think over carbed keg.

let the keg bleed off and 10 feet is about right... pour is slower than I would like but I am afraid to go any shorter for fear of getting glasses full of foam again.