Kettle holes

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TBORBrew

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Hi. I'm new to the forums.

I'm taking the plunge to modify my kettle with a ball valve, site gauge and a water heater element. Currently I'm using a propane burner and siphon hose.

Can anyone recommend me how high I should place the holes above the bottom of my kettle or any other positioning tips? Don't want to guess about drilling holes. Thanks
 
Figure out what you'll be putting on the other side of the valve, (diptube, usually,) and place the hole based on that. Generally, you want it as close to the bottom as possible.
 
That's a good tip. Thanks, Bobby. Definitely weldless fittings for me. Seems like other than making sure there is clearance for the washer, the idea is to get it as low as possible so as to get as much to drain as possible.

I'm also going to mount a heating element. Seems logical to mount it as close to the bottom as possible to help me keep it submerged. That sound right or is there any concern having it too close to the bottom other than clearance for the nut? I would probably run my stove top sometimes to increase the boil as well.
 
TBORBrew said:
That's a good tip. Thanks, Bobby. Definitely weldless fittings for me. Seems like other than making sure there is clearance for the washer, the idea is to get it as low as possible so as to get as much to drain as possible.

I'm also going to mount a heating element. Seems logical to mount it as close to the bottom as possible to help me keep it submerged. That sound right or is there any concern having it too close to the bottom other than clearance for the nut? I would probably run my stove top sometimes to increase the boil as well.
Click to expand...


If you are using a syphon set up then in theory you can go as high as you want.

Most brewers including me go low though.
 
Orfy is right but it also assumes that you don't lose siphon prior to getting the full drain. Once the level is below the top of the bulkhead, the only way to restart the siphon is to fill the output tubing with liquid again. In a perfect world, all drains would be in the bottom of the vessel. If you intend to use 100% electric heat, you actually can mount the drain in the bottom if you can accommodate it in your stand.
 
For the elements, go as low as you can, leaving enough room to TURN the nut. You dont want to be stuck turning the element if you have a seal on the outside, as it will mess up the seal and cause a leak. Always want to be able to turn the nut, not be stuck turning the element.

In my new BK, I went so low that I ended up using SS couplings to tighten the elements up from the inside. They require less clearance, and they are less than $3 each. There was not enough clearance for the "star" shape of the nut to even turn in there.

My $.02
 
Bobby_M said:
Orfy is right but it also assumes that you don't lose siphon prior to getting the full drain. Once the level is below the top of the bulkhead, the only way to restart the siphon is to fill the output tubing with liquid again. In a perfect world, all drains would be in the bottom of the vessel. If you intend to use 100% electric heat, you actually can mount the drain in the bottom if you can accommodate it in your stand.
Click to expand...

Or suck on the hose :D
 
A Rigid brand bi-metal hole saw and Oatey brand thread cutting oil worked like a charm on my megapot. Both from Home Depot.

My hole will build up a single drop leak after 15 seconds or so. I think I need a fatter rubber washer.
 
Post pic!

Put your electrical element as low as possible. This minimizes the cold area below the element. There can easily be a 50 degree difference between above and below the element. This was a surprise to me. Not a big deal in a boil pot, but a HLT can be a challenge if the temps are stratified.

You can get silicone gasket material for making your own washers. Bed Bath and Beyond. Look for silicone hot mats. Or, bargainfittings.com sells a kick-ass rubber washer.
 

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