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Old 02-20-2012, 06:04 AM   #111
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Anyone know the wiring schematic for the single stage controller? The poles on the back have both "loading" and "power supply" terminals.

I want to make this as easy and cost effective as possible, so I am just going to take out the thermostat in the fridge and wire the temp controller into the line. There are black and white wires going into the thermostat, so I figure it should be fine?

Has anyone done this? Thanks.

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Old 02-20-2012, 06:10 AM   #112
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Originally Posted by DeafBrew View Post
Anyone know the wiring schematic for the single stage controller? The poles on the back have both "loading" and "power supply" terminals.

I want to make this as easy and cost effective as possible, so I am just going to take out the thermostat in the fridge and wire the temp controller into the line. There are black and white wires going into the thermostat, so I figure it should be fine?

Has anyone done this? Thanks.
I have one of them controlling my keezer and two in my HERMS control panel. Most of the sellers of these have changed the labeling on the terminals since I drew this, but you should still be able to figure it out. The one labeled "loading" should be the switch, and the one labeled "function" or "lock" can be ignored. FWIW, depending on the fridge wiring, it may be easier to create an external box that the fridge plugs into rather than trying to integrate it.

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Old 02-20-2012, 06:49 AM   #113
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Someone should build these and sell them

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Old 02-20-2012, 07:05 AM   #114
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I have one of them controlling my keezer and two in my HERMS control panel. Most of the sellers of these have changed the labeling on the terminals since I drew this, but you should still be able to figure it out. The one labeled "loading" should be the switch, and the one labeled "function" or "lock" can be ignored. FWIW, depending on the fridge wiring, it may be easier to create an external box that the fridge plugs into rather than trying to integrate it.

Thanks for the diagram! I had a good idea of how it should be wired, but it's been a while since I worked with electricity.

The thermostat of my fridge has a black and white line. I'm guessing it is 110V AC, but I'll test it with my multimeter when I get a chance. If that's the case, it would just be a simple matter of swapping the temp controller for the thermostat, plugging the black line into power supply 1 and the white line into power supply 2 and that's the end of it. Correct? The temperature controller housing can operate in temps down to 32 degrees, so I figure it won't be an issue to keep it all inside.
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:30 AM   #115
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Thanks for the diagram! I had a good idea of how it should be wired, but it's been a while since I worked with electricity.

The thermostat of my fridge has a black and white line. I'm guessing it is 110V AC, but I'll test it with my multimeter when I get a chance. If that's the case, it would just be a simple matter of swapping the temp controller for the thermostat, plugging the black line into power supply 1 and the white line into power supply 2 and that's the end of it. Correct?
Doubtful. The two wires are likely the legs of a switch, not a hot and a neutral. You'd want to wire the outgoing leg to one of the switch terminals on the controller, and the incoming would get split and wired to the other switch terminal and one side of the power terminal. You'd still need to run a neutral from the incoming power on the fridge to the other side of the power terminal on the controller. This is all assuming the thermostat is switching the full 110V.

If you want to wire it into the fridge, it's likely going to be easier to just leave the thermostat alone, and wire the controller into the incoming power supply.
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Old 02-20-2012, 07:58 AM   #116
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Doubtful. The two wires are likely the legs of a switch, not a hot and a neutral. You'd want to wire the outgoing leg to one of the switch terminals on the controller, and the incoming would get split and wired to the other switch terminal and one side of the power terminal. You'd still need to run a neutral from the incoming power on the fridge to the other side of the power terminal on the controller. This is all assuming the thermostat is switching the full 110V.

If you want to wire it into the fridge, it's likely going to be easier to just leave the thermostat alone, and wire the controller into the incoming power supply.
Ah, you're probably right. Maybe I'll go with the outlet instead. That way I can also plug in a fan to pump air into the tap tower but only have it run when the compressor runs.

I'd still like to ditch the thermostat inside the fridge, since it's bulky and gets in the way of the kegs. I can just disconnect the thermostat and splice the two switch legs together. Right?
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Old 02-20-2012, 01:39 PM   #117
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Ah, you're probably right. Maybe I'll go with the outlet instead. That way I can also plug in a fan to pump air into the tap tower but only have it run when the compressor runs.

I'd still like to ditch the thermostat inside the fridge, since it's bulky and gets in the way of the kegs. I can just disconnect the thermostat and splice the two switch legs together. Right?
I removed my fridge thermostat and ran those 2 wires through the cooling circuit of my two stage controller. A thermostat is just a temperature switch. It doesn't matter what the voltage is on your thermostat as long as it is 120 or less. It is almost definitely 120ac with the outside chance of it being 12-30vdc via a converter/transformer.
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:27 PM   #118
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Very nice write up, I will try this in the next month or so. Has anyone set up a data logger of any sort in order to see temperature fluctuactions over a period of time?

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Old 02-20-2012, 02:44 PM   #119
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I removed my fridge thermostat and ran those 2 wires through the cooling circuit of my two stage controller. ... It doesn't matter what the voltage is on your thermostat
I haven't done this myself as I didn't want to drill more holes into the kegerator... but I like your method. You don't care what the voltage is nor whether it is AC or DC (since the controller will only be used as switch and not a power source).

Since the controller is a general purpose controller (and many use it to power a heating element), we've been "conditioned" to think that the cooling circuit needs to supply 120VAC to the fridge. Therefore, most of the wiring diagrams suggest wiring the 120VAC LINE to the cooling switch. But simply removing the thermostat and connecting the fridge wiring to the cooling circuit alone (without connecting AC to the circuit) is more elegant (especially for mounting the controller inside the fridge). Thanks.
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:11 PM   #120
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Has anyone set up a data logger of any sort in order to see temperature fluctuactions over a period of time?
There was actually little need to log any data. In my fridge at least, (unlike the fridge thermostat) the controller can track / maintain the target temperature within a fairly narrow range. (+/- 0.5C or F2=1C was good enough for me.)

The only big difference I've noticed is the frequency and duration that the compressor is turned on/off. If the sensor is left in air, the fridge is turned on/off in short bursts (as an unmodified fridge). Having the sensor in water (near the back of the fridge) yielded longer shutoffs and longer power-on. I'm thinking that the water is a better representation of the beer temp but perhaps someone can comment on which method is better for the compressor.
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