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Old 07-29-2011, 09:55 PM   #1711
physast
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Originally Posted by cwi View Post
My recommendation is to wire up the standard box, especially if you do not already have the knowledge to perform a retrofit. It is much more reusable and flexible that way.
Peltier devices have very low efficiency. I would guess about 1/4 (or less) of the input power. This could be an issue for keeping up with the heat output of the beer/wort if used as a fermentation chiller. It depends highly on ambient temps.
cwi, thank you for responding. I realize the benefit of having a reusable box design. My main reasoning for wanting to not use that particular design is:

1. It would just look cool having it mounted flush with the fridge.
2. I don't plan on using it for any other fridge (I know this could change)

The retro fitting should work the same as the box I would think. I am basically wanting to tie in to the main power from the power chord before it even reaches the electronics of the fridge, before any DC conversion happens.

Even if I use the box I suspect I would need to trick the fridge to be always on.

This is my first fermentation fridge and from the other reviews of this fridge on HBT it seems to work.

EDIT: If the retro fit does not work though I will end up with the box design.
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Old 07-29-2011, 11:11 PM   #1712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by physast View Post
I realize the benefit of having a reusable box design. My main reasoning for wanting to not use that particular design is:

1. It would just look cool having it mounted flush with the fridge.
2. I don't plan on using it for any other fridge (I know this could change)
1.-form over function
2.-planned obsolescence

Are in marketing by chance?

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This is my first fermentation fridge and from the other reviews of this fridge on HBT it seems to work.
I read threads on thermo-electric coolers, and recall people had mixed results. As I said before- It depends highly on ambient temps. These will not work in a garage in the south, whereas a compressor based fridge/freezer will. Additionally, I think many of those who thought theirs were meeting ferm temps were only monitoring the ambient air, and not the beer which reaches ~10F above ambient at times.

This cooler will have a hard time dropping the temp of a full carboy, so the wort will need to be at the correct temp before putting it inside it.
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Old 07-29-2011, 11:45 PM   #1713
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Originally Posted by cwi View Post
1.-form over function
2.-planned obsolescence

Are in marketing by chance?

I read threads on thermo-electric coolers, and recall people had mixed results. As I said before- It depends highly on ambient temps. These will not work in a garage in the south, whereas a compressor based fridge/freezer will. Additionally, I think many of those who thought theirs were meeting ferm temps were only monitoring the ambient air, and not the beer which reaches ~10F above ambient at times.

This cooler will have a hard time dropping the temp of a full carboy, so the wort will need to be at the correct temp before putting it inside it.

lol! No actually I am in Astrophysics. Trust me I know that practically speaking the box design is the best way to go. I think the thermoelectric is good enough for the fermentation though. The ambient temp in the fridge is 38F right now at the lowest setting in my living room with the room temp at 77F.

Again if the retro fitting does not work I will just do the box.
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Old 07-31-2011, 02:09 AM   #1714
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I just ordered one of these, 30 percent off, $19.99 with free shipping if anyone needs one. http://cgi.ebay.com/110V-temperature...item2312c0d147 here

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Old 08-03-2011, 10:15 PM   #1715
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thanks for the link.. I found one for 16.99 with free shipping but it makes no mention of the 110V version, just says 220 on everything. Some of the other sellers say they'll ship the one for your country, but not this one. I think I'll go with the link you posted.

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Old 08-04-2011, 10:05 PM   #1716
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Alrighty,

I seem to have everything wired up and working for the moment, but some strange behavior (the display would read EE and the alarm would be going off) when I was still tinkering with everything has me a bit worried about the sensor. I decided to wire up the probe with a 1/8" mono jack like some people were talking about earlier. The jack I got from radioshack had three prongs/tabs (though I am sure the package said it was mono) in which case it must have been this jack:



If you're looking at it with the "third" prong/tab in the middle, I soldered the right and left prongs/tabs. From what I could tell of the construction, those connected to the inside surface of the jack and the large "tension" contact that hits the end of the 1/8" plug. I assume these were the correct tabs to solder.

The plug I got from radioshack had two solder terminals (one was a prong/tab and the other was midway down what looked like a cross section of a tube) and it looked like this:



From what I can tell, I soldered everything properly. When soldering, I fed the wire through the hole in each terminal and bent it back on itself (similar to the way you'd wire up an outlet, hooking through the terminals) and then covered each terminal in a bit of solder. Was I wrong to double the wire back, and could that be causing the strange behavior I experienced? I don't often solder, and had never soldered these sorts of terminals before.

Thanks for any help you guys are able to provide.

EDIT: To reiterate, it's currently working just fine (for the past 20 minutes or so) and appears to be reading temperatures accurately.

EDIT2: A couple hours in and it's running fine. I think I may be in the clear, but if anyone has ideas on things to check, that'd be awesome.

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Old 08-05-2011, 12:43 PM   #1717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruin_ale View Post
thanks for the link.. I found one for 16.99 with free shipping but it makes no mention of the 110V version, just says 220 on everything. Some of the other sellers say they'll ship the one for your country, but not this one. I think I'll go with the link you posted.
That is the one I ordered ($16.99). I can all but guarantee it will be the 220V version.
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Old 08-05-2011, 03:09 PM   #1718
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I am going to be wiring this up this weekend. I had a few questions as I have seen a few different wiring diagrams. Should I wire this up with the diagram that the OP did? Like so...
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...eschematic.jpg

Or like the one that flomaster rigged up? Or is this a different controller all together?

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/...dium/1t5wv.bmp

Sorry I have read up to page 112 and I guess I may be confusing myself at this point.

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Old 08-05-2011, 04:45 PM   #1719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asthepenguinflies View Post
Alrighty,

I seem to have everything wired up and working for the moment, but some strange behavior when I was still tinkering with everything has me a bit worried about the sensor.

Was I wrong to double the wire back, and could that be causing the strange behavior I experienced?
EDIT: To reiterate, it's currently working just fine (for the past 20 minutes or so) and appears to be reading temperatures accurately.

EDIT2: A couple hours in and it's running fine. I think I may be in the clear, but if anyone has ideas on things to check, that'd be awesome.
If you describe the strange behavior in more detail than just "strange behavior", you might get some advice.
Installing the jack involves more than just soldering. Taking a picture of your completed work, instead of posting stock photos, is sufficient, and easier than documenting your install process in detail.
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Old 08-05-2011, 07:47 PM   #1720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwi View Post
If you describe the strange behavior in more detail than just "strange behavior", you might get some advice.
Installing the jack involves more than just soldering. Taking a picture of your completed work, instead of posting stock photos, is sufficient, and easier than documenting your install process in detail.
Sorry, I wrote a couple versions of that post because the first one didn't post for some reason. Apparently, I left out the important bit the second time around. I've updated the original post, but basically: The display would read EE and the alarm would go off. From what I can tell, that's the error for the sensor shorting. However, it's reading temps fine and giving me no errors right now. So ya.

I'll take some pictures this evening when I can.
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