Cpt_Kirks

Recipes 

I now have 2 separate 20A GFCI 120V circuits available in my brew area. I was considering building another heatstick, when I had a flash of inspiration.

Why not build a double heatstick? Use plumbing fittings, a T fitting and a couple of elbows, added to the standard heatstick. An element on each elbow, the inside filled with jb weld to waterproof the connections, with both cables coming out the top of the heatstick.

I'm going to design it to be used in either my keggle or (when I build one) 10 gallon HLT.

BackBayBrewing

Recipes 

Sounds like a pretty cool idea. Don't forget to give us pictures when you're done with it. Or preferably not only when you are done but also while you are building it.

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Primary: Empty :-(
Secondary: Anchor Steam Clone
On Deck: 60 Minute Clone
Kegged: Empty :-(

Dgonza9

Recipes 

Did you build this?

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On Tap: New Zealand Porter, Green Flash IIPA Clone, Simcoe IIPA, Bavarian Hefeweizen, Kiwanda Cream Ale

Kegged
Pressurized Sanke with spund valve: Breakfast Stout
On Deck: Lager?

Gone but not forgotten: Simcoe IIPA, Bee Cave Kolsch.

mattd2

Recipes 

I have seen some photos from kirk with 2 seperate heat sticks so I think he might of just built another one.
On a side note I just got my element and if you look up "3 heat" elements you'll probably/maybe find my one - its 4000W but the trick is it is actual two 2000W elements coming out of 1 fitting, giving me 1000W, 2000W & 4000W depending how I wire it, pretty cool

Cpt_Kirks

Recipes 

No, it was a good idea, but I couldn't find a practical way to build it. I just made another pair of regular heatsticks. I have two for the boil keggle, two for the HLT now. Sure, I can move the same pair back and forth, but this gives me backup sticks.

I'll probably wind up moving the elements into holes in the keggles, unless I go 220v first, in which case I'll only have to install a single, 5500 watt element into each keggle.