Electric Brewing Supply 30A BCS Giveaway!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Extract Brewing > Pliny the Elder extract kit help
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 05-11-2012, 11:51 PM   #1
brewingmadness
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Rogers, Arkansas
Posts: 43
Default Pliny the Elder extract kit help

I have a PtE kit from O'Shea brewing co. This will be my first brew!!! I was hoping for any tweaks or tips that might help out. The kit came with 11 g Danstar Nottingham dry yeast, but the kit recommends wlp001. I actually have 2 wlp001's on the way from a PtE kit I ordered from more beer. Should I use one of these yeasts or something else? Any tweaks or tips would be greatly appreciated. Here are the ingredients and instructions:
Ingredients-
Dry and liquid malt, boiling hops, flavor hops, finishing hops, dry hops, specialty grains, irish moss, notthingham ale yeast, priming sugar.
Instructions
1-Steep grains in 2 1/2 to 3 gallons of hot water at 155 degrees for 30 min
2-Drain tea from grains into boiling kettle, rinse one or two times with hot water(170 degrees)
3-Add liquid malt extract and dry malt into kettle
4- Bring to a boil, when foam raises, reduce heat until foam recedes
5-Bring back up to a rolling boil, add "boiling hops"and start timer, boil for 60 min
6-Add "flavor hops" at 30 min
7-Add "irish moss" at 15 min
8-Add "finishing hops" last 1-2 min
9-Cool down below 80 degrees and pour into fermenter, add remaining water to bring wort to 5 1/4 gallons
10-Take specific gravity reading before adding yeast. Ensure you airate wort well, filling it with oxygen
11-Pitch yeast, cove and begin primary fermentation
12- After 1 week you may bottle
13-For a cleaner beer, rack to a secondary fermenter and let sit one more week. Add "dry hops" at this time
14-Add sugar, bottle and age at room tempt for at least 1 week

I am kegging so I do not add the priming sugar, right? Thanks for any advice!

__________________
brewingmadness is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-12-2012, 12:02 AM   #2
brewingmadness
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Rogers, Arkansas
Posts: 43
Default

Also this says to boil 2 and a half gallons. I have an 8 gallon kettle, so should I ignore that and boil 6 gallons? Like I said, this will be my first brew so I am just going off things I read here when researching

__________________
brewingmadness is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-12-2012, 12:12 AM   #3
Yooper
Ale's What Cures You!
HBT_ADMIN.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Yooper's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Upper Michigan
Posts: 61,770
Liked 4659 Times on 3384 Posts
Likes Given: 917

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by brewingmadness View Post
Also this says to boil 2 and a half gallons. I have an 8 gallon kettle, so should I ignore that and boil 6 gallons? Like I said, this will be my first brew so I am just going off things I read here when researching
Sure, you can do that! Just make sure that you have a burner than can boil 6+ gallons of wort (many stove tops can't) and that you have a way to chill that amount of hot wort! Many people use a chiller of some sort once they get over 3-4 gallons of wort since it's harder to chill a large volume in an ice bath (although it can be done- I've personally witnessed it).

If you decide to do a full boil, follow the instructions with when to add malt/hops.

If you decide to stick with the partial boil, I'd recommend adding the majority of the extract at the END of the boil instead of when the instructions tell you too. I'd use the dry extract when the instructions say, but add the liquid extract at flame out or just before. That would decrease the malliard reactions (like carmelization) and darkening and thickening of the wort and give you less of a "cooked extract" taste.

Either way, you'll make great beer. Pliny is one of my all-time favorites!
__________________
Broken Leg Brewery
Giving beer a leg to stand on since 2006
Yooper is online now
brewingmadness Likes This 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-12-2012, 12:19 AM   #4
brewingmadness
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Rogers, Arkansas
Posts: 43
Default

I definitely want to do a full boil. I have a bayou burner on the way. I also just weighed my extracts on a cheap scale so it might not be accurate, but the liquid malt extract (looks like syrup) weighs in at just under 6 lbs and the dme weighs a bit under 3.
So if I got your suggestions right, should I steep the grains the same or steep them in 6 gallons? Also, with a full boil should I add both liquid and dry extracts in the beginning still?

__________________
brewingmadness is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-12-2012, 12:36 AM   #5
cdeme123
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Palatine, IL
Posts: 61
Liked 6 Times on 6 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by brewingmadness View Post
I have a PtE kit from O'Shea brewing co. This will be my first brew!!! I was hoping for any tweaks or tips that might help out. The kit came with 11 g Danstar Nottingham dry yeast, but the kit recommends wlp001. I actually have 2 wlp001's on the way from a PtE kit I ordered from more beer. Should I use one of these yeasts or something else? Any tweaks or tips would be greatly appreciated. Here are the ingredients and instructions:
Ingredients-
Dry and liquid malt, boiling hops, flavor hops, finishing hops, dry hops, specialty grains, irish moss, notthingham ale yeast, priming sugar.
Instructions
1-Steep grains in 2 1/2 to 3 gallons of hot water at 155 degrees for 30 min
2-Drain tea from grains into boiling kettle, rinse one or two times with hot water(170 degrees)
3-Add liquid malt extract and dry malt into kettle
4- Bring to a boil, when foam raises, reduce heat until foam recedes
5-Bring back up to a rolling boil, add "boiling hops"and start timer, boil for 60 min
6-Add "flavor hops" at 30 min
7-Add "irish moss" at 15 min
8-Add "finishing hops" last 1-2 min
9-Cool down below 80 degrees and pour into fermenter, add remaining water to bring wort to 5 1/4 gallons
10-Take specific gravity reading before adding yeast. Ensure you airate wort well, filling it with oxygen
11-Pitch yeast, cove and begin primary fermentation
12- After 1 week you may bottle
13-For a cleaner beer, rack to a secondary fermenter and let sit one more week. Add "dry hops" at this time
14-Add sugar, bottle and age at room tempt for at least 1 week

I am kegging so I do not add the priming sugar, right? Thanks for any advice!
Hey....I'll just call you "madness",

First of all, welcome to the awesome world of homebrewing. I have been a homebrewer for about 7 years and have loved every minute of it. In fact, I'm enjoying one of my own creations as I type this so please forgive the typos. That and the "o" key isn't wrking very well.

I looked over the instructions and the great thing about kit beers is if you follow the instructions you should end up with some really great beer.

A few things I would suggest. First, don't worry about the yeast too much. These are fairly compatible and either one should do fine. However, they usually recommend starting the yeast in some luke warm water (just read ahead so you are prepared and follow the instructions on the pack). Remember, yeast are alive and don't react well to harsh temperature changes. You probably knew that if you have an account on homebrewtalks but just in case.

Boiling:
When you're going to boil, be mindful of boil-overs. It won't hurt your beer much but man what a mess. Add extract and hops slowly and be ready to adjust the stove or burner temp to keep everything in the pot. Once everything is added, a nice rolling boil is all you need. You don't need the stove on high for the whole boil. I boil with the lid off, even when I'm doing extract beers. Plan on losing about 1/2 a gallon an hour with the lid off.

Pitching
Also, I noticed that they suggest pitching the yeast at 80 degrees, I would recommend a temperature closer to 70 degrees. It should not be too difficult to do since you will be mixing your wort with some top up water. That should should help cool it down quickly. I use an immersion chiller to cool off the wort quickly. I would like a counter-flow chiller but $ is tight. If you don't have either, about 10 minutes before the end of the boil, prepare an ice bath for the kettle. When the boil is over, set the hot kettle in the ice bath. Add ice as needed as it will heat up quickly.

So, cool wort as quickly as possible and get it in t the primary fermenter. Either shake the fermenter vigorously fr a few minutes or if you have a wort aeration system (basically an aquarium air pump with an inline air filter and a special air stone). If you have one, run that for 30-60 minutes.

Ok, your wort is in the fermenter and the yeast is "pitched." They say to let ferment 1 week then bottle. I never pull beer off the yeast cake for at least 14 days. Even though fermentation may appear to be complete, the spent yeast are still cleaning up some nastiness left over from fermentation. Around 12 days, I check gravities every day and look for stability from day to day. I also take a taste. If I taste any "buttery" flavors, or the gravity is still dropping it's not done.

Bottling/Kegging
If you're force carbonating (kegging with CO2) you do not need priming sugar (you are correct). Some guys will keg with no CO2 and condition in the keg with priming sugar. If you're not using CO2 it doesn't matter if it's in a keg or bottle, you will need priming sugar.

That's it. Follow the instructions that came with the beer and mind any advise you read and make that beer yours.

I envy you, I won't have time to brew anything until at least June.
__________________
cdeme123 is offline
brewingmadness Likes This 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-12-2012, 12:52 AM   #6
brewingmadness
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Rogers, Arkansas
Posts: 43
Default

Haha, thanks for the advice. I do have a copper wort chiller. I got the kegging kit from morebeer. Should I just do the partial boil or will the beer be better with a full boil. PtE is definitely one of my top 3 beers and I doubt it will be nearly as good, but I do want it to be close as possibly allowed with extract brewing. Eventually I'll go all grain but I feel I need to get my feet wet with extract first. BTW, stone ruination is my favorite beer, so if you have a recipe, send me a pm!

__________________
brewingmadness is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-12-2012, 01:01 AM   #7
Yooper
Ale's What Cures You!
HBT_ADMIN.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Yooper's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Upper Michigan
Posts: 61,770
Liked 4659 Times on 3384 Posts
Likes Given: 917

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by brewingmadness View Post
Haha, thanks for the advice. I do have a copper wort chiller. I got the kegging kit from morebeer. Should I just do the partial boil or will the beer be better with a full boil. PtE is definitely one of my top 3 beers and I doubt it will be nearly as good, but I do want it to be close as possibly allowed with extract brewing. Eventually I'll go all grain but I feel I need to get my feet wet with extract first. BTW, stone ruination is my favorite beer, so if you have a recipe, send me a pm!
The beer will be better with a full boil- so if you have a wort chiller do it!

If you're using nottingham yeast, it gets sort of weirdly nasty if it is fermented above about 72 degrees, so I'd chill the beer down to the low 60s if you can and keep it under 70 degrees the whole time of fermentation (beer temp, not room temperature).

I have a Stone Ruination recipe posted in our recipe database under IPAs.
__________________
Broken Leg Brewery
Giving beer a leg to stand on since 2006
Yooper is online now
brewingmadness Likes This 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-12-2012, 01:05 AM   #8
JoeBronco
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: East Bay, NoR-CaL
Posts: 825
Liked 12 Times on 11 Posts
Likes Given: 14

Default

Brewed both (many times) and i have found Safeale05 is a closer match than Nottingham for Pliny. 1056 is also a great choice but your not going to produce the same beer.

__________________

On Deck ______________ Tasty's Brown (Brown with NB)
1st Primary ____________ Sour Pliny
Kegged________________ Sangio.Port Wine
Bottle Ageing __________ Giddy Gremlin, RyIIIPAWhiskey Vanilla Porter (Bottled 4-20)

SILVER - BABO - "Oaked Whiskey Vanilla Porter"
SILVER - Celebrewtion - "Bourbon Vanilla Porter"
GOLD - BABO - "Hoptop"
SILVER - BABO - "Screaming Cream"
Honorable Mention: (x2) Giddy Gremlin RyIIpa (x1) Pliny The Mexican

JoeBronco is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-13-2012, 09:02 PM   #9
brewingmadness
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Rogers, Arkansas
Posts: 43
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeBronco View Post
Brewed both (many times) and i have found Safeale05 is a closer match than Nottingham for Pliny. 1056 is also a great choice but your not going to produce the same beer.
Thanks, I'll have to check my stores and see if they have any
__________________
brewingmadness is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-15-2012, 02:55 AM   #10
brewingmadness
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Rogers, Arkansas
Posts: 43
Default

I have a couple more questions. When I feel ready I will post the tweaked instructions and see what you guys think. I appreciate the help on making my attempting to make my first brew amazing.
1) Since I am doing a full boil, should I still steep the grains in 2 and a half to 3 gallons of water. I remember reading that you should boil 2 quarts of water per lb of grains and have have about 2 lbs, which would mean a 1 gallon boil by that.
2) This kit came with irish moss, but I've read here that whirlflock tabs are better. Should I get some? I don't care about spending some more, I'd rather have a better beer. Thoughts?
3) Should I just throw the hops in the wort? I've seen a few vids where people use hop bags, but since I have 3 hops and the dry hops, would I add the hops in the bag throughout the boil and leave the same hops in the bag?

__________________

brewingmadness is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Morebeer Pliny The Elder Instructions Confusion ewhite1217 Extract Brewing 79 04-18-2014 12:51 PM
Pliny the Elder Clone Kit from MoreBeer theonlysurfnbeer Extract Brewing 19 05-15-2012 01:34 PM
Brewing Pliny the Elder tnp121584 Extract Brewing 9 09-05-2011 08:28 PM
Brewing AHB Pliny the Elder w/ a question I-Hop Extract Brewing 2 07-03-2010 08:07 PM
Pliny the Elder - not attenuating MonoLoco Extract Brewing 7 04-02-2010 05:42 PM