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Old 04-27-2008, 12:06 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoosierbrewer
Are you using liquid extract? The thing to remember is that it is usually better to add that towards the end of the brew since it is already brewed once. I think that BYO had an article on it a few years ago.
Some used liquid, some used dry, some used both. The LHBS Scotch Ale used specialty grains and liquid extract and their recipe had me add the extract during the last 15 minutes of the boil.
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Old 04-27-2008, 12:12 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adx
Couple things:

1. You need to calibrate your hydrometer in distilled water.

2. Try to let the temperature raise to around 70F and give the primary a swirl. You may just need to "wake" up the yeast some.

3. What you need to calculate is attenuation. You can calculate attenuation with [(OG - FG) / (OG - 1)] * 100. Yeast manufacturers will give a yeast strain a certain range that they will attenuate to. Most yeasts attenuate between 70% and 85%.

4. If you want a yeast that makes a super dry beer try Nottinghams. I don't like it because I think it attenuates too much, but that's just personal preference.

5. If you just want more alcohol then make your OG higher. Don't try to use amalyze after the fact, you'll just get watered down alcohol.

And most importantly.

6. Never dump a beer! The cotton mouth feeling on your IPA was probably because it was over hopped. Let that bitterness mellow for 6 to 9 months and it would have been great.
1. Interesting. I will admit that I tested the hydrometer in tap water. I'm not sure what you mean by "calibrate" though. What do I do to it in order to calibrate it?

2. My current batch is a lager, will that hurt it if I let it get that warm? I think I pitched my yeast at 60 degrees.

3. The OG of my current batch is 1.050, so assuming a 75% attenuation rate, I should expect an FG around 1.012

4. Hmm, nottinghams, I think that's the yeast that my friend used and his first batch did get down to 1.008

5. Too late, as I already added it. But it's all in the name of science for me at this point.

6. I'm starting to think that cottonmouth feeling is something else than hops bitterness. I took a taste of my dunkel the last time I did a hydro test, and it had that same cottonmouth feeling to it. Perhaps this is what people call yeast bite? Anyway, I would never throw out a beer just because it didn't hit it's FG, as some of my previous brews have been rather tasty (my AHS Amber Ale was very popular with my friends at a bbq we had yesterday). The IPA I threw out because after waiting a significant amount of time, the cottonmouth effect hadn't mellowed out by even a little bit. Oh well, perhaps I was wrong to throw it out.
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Old 04-27-2008, 01:23 PM   #33
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Some brands of extract ferment to lower final gravities than others.

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Old 04-27-2008, 02:08 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solbergg
1. Interesting. I will admit that I tested the hydrometer in tap water. I'm not sure what you mean by "calibrate" though. What do I do to it in order to calibrate it?
All calibrating means is reading your hydrometer reading in distilled water @60F. If it reads 1.002 then you know your hydrometer is .002 off. You can then add those gravity points to every reading you take.
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Old 04-27-2008, 04:02 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solbergg
I pitch directly most of the time, though I think I rehydrated one of them before pitching. I don't know what proofing is.
Proofing yeast is prooving that it is viable by pitching it into boiled/cooled to 90F water for 15 minutes (note if it foams up) and then swirl if it foamed up, wait another 5 minutes and then imediately pitching the yeast. The water get's into the yeast cells easier than wort and gets them ready for an easy transition to wort. It also lets you know they are still viable by the foaming action. Always use enough yeast for the volume you are fermenting.
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Old 04-27-2008, 05:43 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shafferpilot
At my LHBS there's this stuff called "Amylaze Enzyme". If a fermentation sticks at 1.020, put in a tablespoon of that stuff and swish the carboy. Magically that beer will be at 1.012 within a couple days. Amylaze is an enzyme that will break down some of the complex sugars so that the yeast can eat them. Don't over-do it as it's possible to break most of the residual sugar down..... and there goes all your malty flavouring. The next best option is to switch to a different DME/LME supplier.
I was reading along and was waiting to see someone post this, or post it myself. This and another pitch w/ champagne yeast will get that gravity down. You'll end up very dry, I'll bet.
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Old 04-27-2008, 08:01 PM   #37
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I too have suffered the 1.020 curse.

My answer was this problem was very different
I set my carboys on top of the Dryer for 3-5 days,
the gentle vibration ( I think) helped "rouse" the yeast
now I do this with every batch.

I have hit my F.G. on the last 10 batches,
but I also let my brews sit in primary for at least 2 weeks.

This my not be right but it has worked for me.

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Old 04-27-2008, 10:40 PM   #38
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Also double check your hydrometer. The hydrometer that I have is suppose to be read at 68F.

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Old 04-28-2008, 01:51 AM   #39
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I've had the 1.024 curse.... the lhbs suggested that I pitch a propegator batch of yeast in when I rack to secondary. I had a deadguy clone that took 6 weeks to go from 1.066 to 1.024. I racked it last night it had a green cider smell and taste when I sampled the sg. hopefully it will clean out and the sg will drop to where it should be. as a side question should i put it in a tertiary to clear out the brew?

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Old 04-28-2008, 01:42 PM   #40
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Cool this is an interesting topic. I had the same problem about 3 batches ago. Made a wheat ale and ended up getting stuck at 1019 - its not too bad - a little sweeter then I would have liked though. Luckilly it hasnt happened again since last 2 batches I have bottled reached 1012 from around 1050.

If I get stuck again atleast I have some good tips - cheers

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