Simple Cooler Conversion

I posted this in another thread as a suggestion but I was also hoping for some feedback good or bad to this but it looks like I killed that thread and its now buried. I know what most guys use is not that complicated once you find the parts but that was part of my problem. So I am going to give it another chance on its own, thanks. Here you go:

I just converted a 72q Coleman Extreme into a mash tun without using all the fancy plumbing and keeping the original drain intact and I like it. I originally started out removing the drain to take to HD to get the brass and SS parts like recommended here but when I got there I noticed a flexible plastic tube (I can provide size and type once I get home) in the plumbing dept that with a little push fits tightly into the opening of the original drain. I brought a 4' length for about 2-3 bucks, 2 SS clamps and the SS braid. I cut a 3' length of this tubing, shoved it into the drain and left about 4" into the cooler to attach the braid leaving about 2.5' of the flexible tube extending outside the cooler. Valve? Since it is flexible (still hard tubing though) I easily bent it up so I could use a rubber band to attach it to the handle above the height of the cooler lid. This stops the liquid from draining out. When I was ready to drain, I simply removed the rubber band and lowered the tube carefully into my pot. No a single leak and I used no sealer or silicone. Did a wheat beer last weekend with not a single issue. Cooler was at WM on sale last fall for like $20.

Not a single comment? Not even the least bit of interest? At least tell me it sucks if that is what you think.

I also use a very similiar simple setup. I have done this to two coolers, both work fine. All I did was drill a hole in the cooler approx. 1/8 to 1/16" smaller than the vinyl tubing. Then I forced the tubing through the cooler wall...it helps here to cut the tubing at an angle and possibly warm the tubing. On one cooler I attached the braid w/ a ss worm clamp, one the other I used a couple of nylon zip ties or electrical wire ties. I also put a bit of silicone where the tubing exits the cooler. Sometimes it leaks a few drips but only about a tablespoon, so I don't worry much about it.

Additionally, I mounted a binder clip at the top of the cooler to clamp the hose above the wort level so as not to drain inadvertantly.

Works fine IMO. I actually like the vinyl tubing as it gets flexible while draining the hot wort and can actually be pinched closed w/ a thumb and forefinger.

What we are using actually has a name..."El cheapo mash tun" see link below.

Simple All Grain Brewing - German Pilsner

Always good to post some pictures rather than a wordy description. Would probably get more comments that way.

Is the plastic you used food safe? People usually want stainless steel because it will not interact with the hot water in the mash. Plastic could leach some not so tasty stuff out depending on what kind it is. I like having a ball valve to control the flow of wort out of the MLT. Easier to control the flow and if I accidentally drop the hose or something the wort won't just start running out.

wilserbrewer said:

I also use a very similiar simple setup. I have done this to two coolers, both work fine. All I did was drill a hole in the cooler approx. 1/8 to 1/16" smaller than the vinyl tubing. Then I forced the tubing through the cooler wall...it helps here to cut the tubing at an angle and possibly warm the tubing. On one cooler I attached the braid w/ a ss worm clamp, one the other I used a couple of nylon zip ties or electrical wire ties. I also put a bit of silicone where the tubing exits the cooler. Sometimes it leaks a few drips but only about a tablespoon, so I don't worry much about it.

Additionally, I mounted a binder clip at the top of the cooler to clamp the hose above the wort level so as not to drain inadvertantly.

Works fine IMO.

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Glad to hear you too have done this. I don't know if you can do the same thing I was able to do with coolers other than the Coleman Extreme 72q but with that cooler you don't even have to modify the cooler, just get the right size tubing and push it through and you are done, no calk, nothing, just add the braid like you did and done. I will write down the exact tube size and type and post it here should someone else want to try it. Really, the fit is so tight I almost thought it was not going to go in (just realized that could be a quote) . Not even a hint of a leak.

steelerguy said:

Always good to post some pictures rather than a wordy description. Would probably get more comments that way.

Is the plastic you used food safe? People usually want stainless steel because it will not interact with the hot water in the mash. Plastic could leach some not so tasty stuff out depending on what kind it is. I like having a ball valve to control the flow of wort out of the MLT. Easier to control the flow and if I accidentally drop the hose or something the wort won't just start running out.

Click to expand...

I don't take many pictures of things and post them so I will need to refresh myself on how to do so. Not sure but it was next to the PVC hard pipe used for plumbing and all the hardware fittings you guys use on your coolers. It is white but flexible so the closest thing it compares to is the tubing used for icemakers and the like but it came in a couple sizes larger than what I brought. What I brought was the smallest but I think larger than the tubing used for icemakers. I saw that tubing too but this is not that, that stuff is opaque and more flexible probably due to the diameter. The beer I brewed last weekend is still in the fermenter so only time will tell if it will show up in the beer's flavor. Thanks

I agree with steelerguy. With a ball valve, you can control the rate of the liquid coming out of the hose. It could help you to keep from getting stuck sparges as well as sparge slow enough that the grains get properly rinsed.

kcstrom

You can also control the drain rate with a 60 cent hose clamp Austin Homebrew Supply

It's a cheap and easy way to get into all grain for sure and if you batch sparge then there's no need to throttle the flow. It's either flowing or not.

Bobby_M said:

It's a cheap and easy way to get into all grain for sure and if you batch sparge then there's no need to throttle the flow. It's either flowing or not.

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Yeah, I wasn't too sure about that as I thought flow was a good thing. Most people seem to have the opposite problem especially when starting out.

Bobby_M said:

It's a cheap and easy way to get into all grain for sure and if you batch sparge then there's no need to throttle the flow. It's either flowing or not.

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Only 1 AG brew in, but I didn't do it that way... I throttled the flow to a trickle when actually extracting wort during batch sparge (with the SS ball valve all the way open, using a plastic host clamp to throttle). I had everything fully open for vorlauf, though.

Should I not do that? I had been advised the first time to extract slowly, taking about 10-15mins for each batch of water to drain into the boil pot.

Greenglass,

Check out denny's link below...IMO no need to drain so slow if batch sparging.
dennybrew

Greenglass said:

Only 1 AG brew in, but I didn't do it that way... I throttled the flow to a trickle when actually extracting wort during batch sparge (with the SS ball valve all the way open, using a plastic host clamp to throttle). I had everything fully open for vorlauf, though.

Should I not do that? I had been advised the first time to extract slowly, taking about 10-15mins for each batch of water to drain into the boil pot.

Click to expand...

Not trying to answer your question, but with the way I have it set up it takes at least that long anyway and that is even after I sparge. I never timed myself but I know from the time I start to collect the wort, to sparging to finish it is way longer than just 10 minutes probably past 15. I guess I should time it next time.

Thanks! I'll try draining wide open next time; I have a brew planned for this weekend (hopefully...)

Ok, here is what is on the label of the tubing:

3/8" x 1/2" H/C PEX TUBE 5ft QB2PS5X

What I found is its primary use is for sub floor heating systems. I also found where it is used for drinking water supplies. I assume H/C means hot/cold. It is valuable due to its resistance to high temperatures so I guess it is ok to use. I didn't search too long but I didn't find it actually listed as food grade but it did say it was becoming a popular alternative to PVC for plumbing.

Sorry for the bump, but since I posted the tube type above last night I want to get your opinions on it. From what I read it seems to be ok for this use.

Thanks!

I think PEX will not leach at high temperatures. I see that is rated for 200F.

Here is more info.

I don't have any experience of PEX in this application, but I know that it is used for domestic plumbing (there's a bunch of it in my house). Certainly it's ok for high temperatures, and it must be food grade rated since it's used to run drinking water. I can't imagine that there would be a problem.

Isn't it a bit unwieldy, though? It's sort of rigid.

Greenglass said:

I don't have any experience of PEX in this application, but I know that it is used for domestic plumbing (there's a bunch of it in my house). Certainly it's ok for high temperatures, and it must be food grade rated since it's used to run drinking water. I can't imagine that there would be a problem.

Isn't it a bit unwieldy, though? It's sort of rigid.

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The length I have sticking out of the cooler is between 2-3' and at that length it is flexable enough to bend up to stop the flow and down to allow it.

njnear76 said:

I think PEX will not leach at high temperatures. I see that is rated for 200F.

Here is more info.

Click to expand...

Looks like to one minor drawback is exposure to sunlight but that is not a big issue as I brew in the kitchen/dining room and store in the basement. I feel confident in using this and I am happy with my mash cooler setup. Thanks!

Hey guys,

I recently made a real cheap MLT to do batch sparging for very cheap. If you get the right cooler, the drain port will make a nice friction fit with some copper tubing. This cooler MLT works great for 5 and 10 gal batches and I consistently get around 80% efficiency with my barley crusher and this setup. Just wanted to give you guys some more options:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/my-cheap-n-easy-cooler-mlt-74312/

Spine said:

Hey guys,

I recently made a real cheap MLT to do batch sparging for very cheap. If you get the right cooler, the drain port will make a nice friction fit with some copper tubing. This cooler MLT works great for 5 and 10 gal batches and I consistently get around 80% efficiency with my barley crusher and this setup. Just wanted to give you guys some more options:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/my-cheap-n-easy-cooler-mlt-74312/

Click to expand...

Looks nice but a bit more expensive and a lot more labor and parts intensive than my idea, but if you like it that is all that counts. My idea has 4 parts besides the cooler: Tube, braid, 1 clamp, some SS wire to close the braid end. About $12-$15 US dollars and was done in 15 minutes. Tools: flathead screwdriver and wire cutters. Oh, I also need a rubber band to hold the tube up as my "shut off" valve.

Spine said:

Hey guys,

I recently made a real cheap MLT to do batch sparging for very cheap. If you get the right cooler, the drain port will make a nice friction fit with some copper tubing. This cooler MLT works great for 5 and 10 gal batches and I consistently get around 80% efficiency with my barley crusher and this setup. Just wanted to give you guys some more options:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/my-cheap-n-easy-cooler-mlt-74312/

Click to expand...

Oh, and from your picture the cooler drain plug looks exactly like mine.

Greenglass said:

Isn't it a bit unwieldy, though? It's sort of rigid.

Click to expand...

If this is a worry, you can just terminate the PEX not far out of the cooler and join it to some vinyl tubing. The nice thing about the hard tubing is that it's set up to use press-lock fittings... you just shove it in the end and there are barbs that hold it. You could work in a valve at that junction too, for maximum control...

PEX -> female fitting -> ball valve -> barbed fitting -> vinyl

At that point you're getting pretty far beyond the "cheap" part of this exercise though.

Hopaholic said:

If this is a worry, you can just terminate the PEX not far out of the cooler and join it to some vinyl tubing. The nice thing about the hard tubing is that it's set up to use press-lock fittings... you just shove it in the end and there are barbs that hold it. You could work in a valve at that junction too, for maximum control...

PEX -> female fitting -> ball valve -> barbed fitting -> vinyl

At that point you're getting pretty far beyond the "cheap" part of this exercise though.

Click to expand...

But it's not really all that hard to bend under regular house temps, the length is the key plus you need that to act as a valve. I think I am going to do another all grain this weekend with this setup and if I run into any problems I will let you guys know as I do not want to steer anyone in the wrong direction. Good thing is if I do you have not wasted much money, brought parts you can still use for the other suggestions and not changed or damaged your cooler one bit.

Did another all grain yesterday with no issues, no leaks, went perfectly. Every time I see a thread now about trouble finding parts, trying to figure out why they have leaks etc., I can't help but think it would be much easier for them to just do it this way. Well, I am done promoting this idea, for now anyway, so thanks for all the input on this.

Has anyone seen the conversion of a cooler using the valve off your bottling bucket? If you go to Amazon.com: Homebrew Mash Tun/Lauter Tun Picninc Cooler Conversion Kit: Everything Else its for sale. My only question is, the tube that goes through the cooler is make threaded, how are they connecting the PVC manifold to the tube on the valve. This seems to be a pretty east setup considering you can get those valves for under 5 bucks.