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Old 02-19-2010, 01:27 PM   #101
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Correct. There's only a slight decrease in absorption time to be had by attaching the gas to the bev out side because the bubble size coming up from the dip tube will be pretty large so it doesn't add much gas to beer surface area. There are other methods and tricks involving diffusion stones but I don't perceive a lot of value there.

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Old 03-04-2010, 11:05 PM   #102
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Thanks Bobby_M! Another first time force carber using the illustrated method!

I racked from primary (66 deg) to the keg around lunch time 5 days ago. Put it in the fridge (38 deg) with 25 to 30 psi. The following day in the evening release the pressure and set reg 12 to 15 psi. Sampled just now due to impatience and very close to full carbonation!

THANKS!

Note: I set the reg a little low to start with because it sometimes creeps up on me.

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Old 03-04-2010, 11:20 PM   #103
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Can you speed up carbonation times by setting your regulator to desired serving/maintenance levels and shaking/rolling the keg? Or is that a terribly bad idea (ala setting to 30 and rolling)?

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Old 03-05-2010, 02:46 AM   #104
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You can speed the carb time by shaking occasionally because it increases the surface area between the beer and CO2.

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Old 03-06-2010, 12:10 AM   #105
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In my early days, I shook 34 F beer at 12 psi until no more CO2 was hissing into the beer.

I have also made 3 day beer - on a dare - tasted not too good, and was a kit to boot (would never do something that nasty to all grain)

I like the cold beer at 30 psi for 24 hours, blow down, then pressure up to 12 psi. Within 5-7 days, it's good.

And, like the author of this thread recommends, let it sit for around a week before serving.

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Old 03-15-2010, 04:45 PM   #106
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Excellent thread, just looking for some advice from the kegmasters.

I kegged a German Kölsch on the 5th, with the intent of carbonating naturally (1/3 cup of corn sugar). My keezer build was finished yesterday, so I figured I'd put everything in and see have me some beer on tap. Only there was pretty much no carbonation at all (and a ton of sediment, on my nth glass even). I know a lot of stuff got stirred up in the move of the keg up the stairs, but it sat for a good 6 hours before I tried pouring anything.

Generally my bottles are fully cabonated in 8-10 days, and the internets seem to have indicated I could expect similar even from a corny keg given about a 72°F closet. The keezer is at 42°F, I'm going to go ahead and guess there won't be any more natural carbonation happening. A handy link I snagged from this very thread seems to say that if I want 2.5vol CO2 in my beer I should have my regulator at 13.3psi and let it hang out there (per the start of this thread anyway) for a few weeks until it reaches equilibrium.

What I'm not too sure about is the serving pressure. Do I leave things at ~13psi to serve, or vent the gauge and keep 5psi on things? If I do that, won't I end up with less headspace pressure than I have dissolved gas and end up with a new eq pressure somewhere less than the target carbonation above? I've seen talk of I.D. of beer lines, and length - so the setup I bought (kegcowboy) has 6' lines of 3/16" I.D. Don't know if that's a problem or not. Faucets are Perlick 525SS, if that matters or not.

If what I'm doing sounds sane/reasonable/unlikely to cause a waste of beer, let me know. If it doesn't, let me know what I should be doing and I'll do it. Thanks!

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Old 03-15-2010, 07:23 PM   #107
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It's very possible that you didn't have a perfect seal on the keg while the yeast were dealing with the priming sugar.

If the carbonation pressure on the chart is 13psi, that's what you should leave it at even during serving. With 6' of line, the pour may be a little fast but it shouldn't be too bad.

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Old 03-15-2010, 08:04 PM   #108
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Hrm, I put a little soapy water on top of the keg when I sealed everything up and hit it with the CO2 tank to make sure everything was sealed and didn't get any bubbles. Kinda what I do when I run over a nail on my motorcycle and end up having to plug the tire. I sat there and watched it for a good while too, but I guess it's certainly possible something moved while I was moving the keg from the kitchen to the closet.

I'll leave the pressure where it's at then, and hopefully in a few weeks I have something resembling proper carbonation and a tasty (well, tastier) beer.

Thanks man. This thread should be nominated for a Nobel Prize in Beerology or something.

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Old 03-19-2010, 01:18 PM   #109
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I have a friend who has been using a CO2 charger to "force carb" his beer for the past several years. He uses no priming sugars. He racks the beer into the keg. Seals it, puts it on its side, and blasts one cylinder into the OUT on the keg through the beer. He then uses another one--this time on the IN side--to pressurize the keg. He says then after 24hrs he gives it more. I've had his beer, and never known it to be flat. Although, like others have mentioned, it does taste better after a week or two.

I've never kegged but figured I'd try it on my next batch after recently getting a freebie fridge. I went to the LHBS yesterday to get a charger and picnic tap. My friend's method came up in my conversation with the guy at the shop. He insisted it wouldn't work without using a natural sugar primer, and said the charger should only be used for dispensing. He then told me how to force carb with a regular 5# cylinder setup using the methods previously discussed in this thread.

So my question is, aside from having the ability to regulate and measure the gas--obviously the ideal situation particularly for consistency--what's difference if the gas comes from a 5# cylinder or a charger? Is it just the ability for the cylinder to provide continuous consistent pressure as opposed to blasts from a charger? Is sugar priming my best option if I'm not going to lay out the coin for a cylinder/regulator setup right away?

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Old 03-19-2010, 03:24 PM   #110
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Force carbing is a lot cleaner than "bottle conditioning" in a keg.

I'm guessing a charger is the small CO2 thingies - would take a ton of them to force carb a 5 gallon keg.

Big benefit to a 5# CO2 cylinder is the convenience.

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