Happy HolidaySs Giveaway - Winners Re-Re-Re-Re-Re-Drawn - 24 hours to Claim!

Get your HBT Growlers, Shirts and Membership before the Rush!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > Rims
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 06-17-2012, 03:07 AM   #1
mikee
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 66
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts

Default Rims

I'm thinking about building a RIMS system. Can you run the wart through a canister with an electric 120 v heating element in it. Then run the pump continually allowing the PID cycle the element. I figure the size of the canister would be about 8in in diameter (not sure where I would find something like this) and would mount on the side of the mash tun.

I want to make the system compact and kinda portable since I don't want to brew in my basement. Plus it would be nice to keep the cost down and not have to buy another 15 gallon kettle

__________________
mikee is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-17-2012, 06:08 PM   #2
thargrav
Registered User
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Posts: 821
Liked 38 Times on 35 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

I have thought about doing this for a long time. The largest 120V water element I could find is 2000 watts, which by the math will draw 16.6 amps. But reality the wattage will be a closer 1850 watts to because most house voltages are rarely set above 116 VAC. If you decide to do this you need to know what the temperature rise times would be for stepped mashing. But insulating the canister and using a good cooler as a mash tun will help a lot.

I posted this article a few days ago that points to a article I posted on www.instructables.com that gives details for installing a electric heater in a stainless steel pot.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/ins...lement-335222/
You could do the exact same thing with a canister, the trick will be to find something that will house the element and provide leak free inlet & outlet fittings. You also need to be able to clean the inside of the canister.

I considered making something out of PVC but if the element were ever to start dry the PVC would melt and I would have a disaster on my hands. You need some sort of metal container, stainless steel preferred, with a removeable lid for cleaning. Something like drawing I attached (I'm no artist). Let me know if you find something that works!

small-canister.jpg  
__________________
thargrav is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-17-2012, 06:37 PM   #3
Rbeckett
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Rbeckett's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Bronson, Fl
Posts: 987
Liked 66 Times on 47 Posts
Likes Given: 29

Default

I was thinking of using an 8 inch section of pipe with threaded ends to screw on the end caps to assist in sanitation. The inlet, outlet and element/coil bungs could be soldered with Silver solder quite easilly and provide an airtight, water tight self contained heating unit. Couple that to a march or chuger pump and you would have a pretty nice heater tube. I would use a 220 with GFCI so your temp rise time would be much shorter and draw less overall amps too. If you ran that with a PID you would be good to go, I think.
Just sayin....
WCB

__________________

What do you mean "no Kidneys"???, WTF now I gotta drink less beer...
Join the Automation sub forum in Electric brewing for a discussion of components and control systems. I did!!!!

Rbeckett is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-17-2012, 08:49 PM   #4
thargrav
Registered User
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Posts: 821
Liked 38 Times on 35 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

If you stick to just fittings you could build something with these parts.

1 - 1" SS pipe tee - element would thread into one end, pipe would thread into opposite end - $10.36.
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/1th...s304ssa15.aspx

1 - 1" X 6" threaded nipple - this plus the tee form main heater body - $12.92.
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/1th...s1x6304ss.aspx

1 - 1" X 1/2" bushing to step tee inlet down to 1/2" - $5.49.
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/1x1...si146j108.aspx

1 - 1" X 1/2" female reducer to step outlet down to 1/2" - 7.59.
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/1x1...so169p165.aspx

2 - 1/2" hose nipples for inlet & outlet - $8.13 ea.
http://www.buyfittingsonline.com/12t...304ssv236.aspx

Total cost is $52.62 plus freight.

You would need to drill a hole into the side of the female reducer or the top end of the SS nipple for your temperature probe.

Also, you could insulate the entire assembly and I believe cleaning would be as easy as flushing clear water through the assembly.

__________________
thargrav is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-17-2012, 09:40 PM   #5
thargrav
Registered User
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Posts: 821
Liked 38 Times on 35 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

I just ordered these parts and I am going to try a assembly. I just need to chase down a PID controller and a few other parts.

This should work great with a cooler.

__________________
thargrav is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-17-2012, 09:43 PM   #6
Docgineer
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 55
Liked 4 Times on 3 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

Why not just make a RIMS tube? It's going to end up costing about the same once you account for the kettle. You're going to have a bulky open vessel strapped to your MLT with a ton of residual volume (and eventual loss) See the RIMS tube for dummies thread in the DIY forum here http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rims-dummies-114997/.

Also, I used to run a Brewers Hardware RIMS tube using a ULWD 5500W 220v element on 110v successfully through a 10g igloo cooler. I heated the water to dough in temps in my kettle (110 F) then let the tube take it the rest of the way over about 20 minutes recirculating that water through the tun. My new system with a 20g mash tun uses the same tube except that I have a burner under the mash tun to help it along until it gets closer to target, then I shut it off and maintain heat with the RIMS.

__________________
Docgineer is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-17-2012, 09:58 PM   #7
thargrav
Registered User
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Posts: 821
Liked 38 Times on 35 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

Wow, a 130 page thread! And it looks like the person who designed his RIMS tube covered just about everything.

__________________
thargrav is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-18-2012, 03:08 AM   #8
jcaudill
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: VA Beach, VA
Posts: 831
Liked 57 Times on 43 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

Just to toss it out there - you don't absolutely need a RIMS tube. I run RIMS just fine direct fired. If you're talking about keeping cost down seems simpler.

__________________
jcaudill is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-18-2012, 08:53 PM   #9
mikee
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 66
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts

Default

Wow- thanks for the imput guys. I'm getting excited!

__________________
mikee is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-19-2012, 02:37 AM   #10
thargrav
Registered User
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Posts: 821
Liked 38 Times on 35 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcaudill View Post
Just to toss it out there - you don't absolutely need a RIMS tube. I run RIMS just fine direct fired. If you're talking about keeping cost down seems simpler.
RIMS direct fired with gas would be fine but I would be concerned with direct heat from a element - I would want something positioned to draw wurt across the element.
__________________
thargrav is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
My RIMS brumer0 Brew Stands 9 02-20-2012 03:00 AM
My RIMS BrewHead802 Brew Stands 3 03-11-2011 02:25 AM
Rims ? certaut Brew Stands 1 01-09-2011 12:27 AM
To RIMS or not to RIMS...that is the question. Dgonza9 Brew Stands 12 08-24-2010 11:01 PM
RIMS set up! slnies Brew Stands 75 04-30-2009 01:10 PM



Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS