Stupid Miller Kegs!

Greetings! So SWMBO got me a few kegs from her work (I know, she's awesome) but they are those silly Miller style kegs. I have seen tons of how to's on getting the dip tube out only my problem is that I can't even get the threads started.

The kegs have been in storage since 1997 so I fear they have seized up a bit. My question to you fine people is this...do I need to remove that dip tube in order to cut the top off?

I am just making a brew kettle so I won't be reusing the tube. The keg has been depressurized but I still do not know if I will run into any problems.

I smell like 16 year old hefewizen and PB Blaster and I'm at my wits end with these things. Help!!

Short answer, no, it isn't necessary to remove the spear. If you are handy with your grinder, you can freestlye the cut using your the guard of your grinder to protect the cutting disc while you go around. Ensure the keg is depressurized right before doing it, take your grinder and use the guard to guide around the outer rim and take your time and make a couple of passes, don't try to cut right through in a single pass.

snackson said:

Ensure the keg is depressurized right before doing it

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This. Like bigtime.

Lay the keg on its side, cover the top with a towel and use a screw driver to push the ball down to release pressure. The towel will help you keep dry. Trying to cut the top off a pressurized keg will result in spewing fine bits of shrapnel which couldn't be good.

For a nice clean circular cut, do what I did in this video:

Rig up some kind of jig to fit in the valve, allowing for a perfect round cut. There are lots of different jig versions out there on YouTube, just search around. As long as it allows free rotation and holds the grinder steady, you'll be good.

Hellosluggo said:

This. Like bigtime.

Lay the keg on its side, cover the top with a towel and use a screw driver to push the ball down to release pressure. The towel will help you keep dry. Trying to cut the top off a pressurized keg will result in spewing fine bits of shrapnel which couldn't be good.

For a nice clean circular cut, do what I did in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPgasVWYpAk&feature=share&list=UUX89uChB6aJQgHyzQRv3f0Q&index=10

Rig up some kind of jig to fit in the valve, allowing for a perfect round cut. There are lots of different jig versions out there on YouTube, just search around. As long as it allows free rotation and holds the grinder steady, you'll be good.

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I made a similar jig of wood and cut my keg the same way.

Both of those require removing the spear, which seems to be a major problem here...

Cheers!

Here's a thread related to the removal of the dreaded Miller threaded valve. The image links are broken, but there seems to be some good info there.

In regard to using a jig setup to cut the top out, if there's not enough depth in the top of the valve to allow a PVC tee or other sort of pivot to sit down far enough, then why not rig something up to fit over the valve—a female fitting instead of male, if you will. Either way, I think the jig method would work with a little creative tweaking.

As others have said, no need to remove the speer. The jigs are nice and all, but it's pretty easy to cleanly cut the top out without one.

Post up a pic of the attachment, Por Favor..........Is there something sticking up out of it that would prevent a 2 inch bushing / spacer / mandrel from nesting in the opening?

Seems you could make a jig to get a good, concentric cut if the opening is recessed....


I clicked on the link above, and pics no worky no more.

you could always use a piece of PVC that slips OVER the valve instead of inside, or a triangular jig that has 2 ends on the top and inside of the keg lip. either way would keep the grinder properly in place as you cut.

TNGabe said:

As others have said, no need to remove the speer. The jigs are nice and all, but it's pretty easy to cleanly cut the top out without one.

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+1 I cut mine free hand years ago and they are more round than some I've seen on here cut with a jig. Like it was mentioned go slow and make a few passes and you can get a very nice cut.

Here is a picture of my jig that slips over the outside of the sanke connection. Using a jig made it really easy to cleanup and my 12" stock pot lid fits in there very nicely. I wouldn't recommend free handing it when you can make something like this in 5 minutes. I think it was a 2.5" hole saw that used.

crane said:

Here is a picture of my jig that slips over the outside of the sanke connection. Using a jig made it really easy to cleanup and my 12" stock pot lid fits in there very nicely. I wouldn't recommend free handing it when you can make something like this in 5 minutes. I think it was a 2.5" hole saw that used.

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This seems like the way to go to me. I free handed mine and did fine, but it takes longer as you have to exercise much more control. Would take less time to make the jig and you remove much of the risk of screwing up.