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Old 02-18-2013, 01:12 AM   #21
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This was my second and I never paid attention to grain crush since first crush from NB was great. First time I dealt with a terrible crush.

only thing that helped save me was I crushed my own 4lbs of abbey malt. At least I was shooting for high og, so I'll still end up with a good beer.

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Old 02-18-2013, 01:15 AM   #22
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There is such a difference between the grains you show and what I put into my BIAB mash. The grain looks like coarse ground corn meal with the husks all torn up when I'm done grinding it. It would be terrible for a conventional tun but it works well for BIAB. My biggest problem is every batch seems to overshoot the anticipated OG, even when I adjust the software to account for the better efficiency. Of course at the end of the ferment I have the opposite problem, my FG is nearly always below projected even though I check my mash temp with 2 or 3 thermometers.

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Old 02-18-2013, 01:52 AM   #23
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Quote:
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There is such a difference between the grains you show and what I put into my BIAB mash. The grain looks like coarse ground corn meal with the husks all torn up when I'm done grinding it. It would be terrible for a conventional tun but it works well for BIAB. My biggest problem is every batch seems to overshoot the anticipated OG, even when I adjust the software to account for the better efficiency. Of course at the end of the ferment I have the opposite problem, my FG is nearly always below projected even though I check my mash temp with 2 or 3 thermometers.
wouldn't FG be more affected by fermentation? Perhaps not enough yeast cells or temp control?
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:03 AM   #24
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from what I've read, the sugars are more fermentable mashing at lower temps, he probably wants more body and mashes a little higher, yeast attenuation also plays a roll.

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Old 02-18-2013, 02:19 AM   #25
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Brewmaster's Warehouse may take a few more days to ship than Midwest but the prices are better (IMHO) and I asked for and clearly got a solid double crush for my next BIAB.

FWIW, I was somewhat discouraged by my last efficiency and looked for answers. I decided to go to the source over at BIABrewer.com. Those folks are very friendly and helpful and extremely knowledgable about the ins and outs of BIAB brewing.
They also have this real cool spreadsheet for determining what you need to get good efficiencies called the BIABacus.
I recommend a pilgrimage over there to clear up some questions. Not that folks are not knowledgable here, they are and helpful too, but those guys at BIABrewer live and breath the whole BIAB concept. Well worth the field trip IMHO.

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Old 02-18-2013, 02:24 AM   #26
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OP ... For your next brew I'd suggest going to a local LHBS (there are plenty of good ones around here) and getting them to do a fine or double mill on your grain. You may pay a little more than mail order but if your brew comes out right that may be worth it (but at least you'll have all the info to decide.)

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Old 02-18-2013, 02:38 AM   #27
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OP ... For your next brew I'd suggest going to a local LHBS (there are plenty of good ones around here) and getting them to do a fine or double mill on your grain. You may pay a little more than mail order but if your brew comes out right that may be worth it (but at least you'll have all the info to decide.)
Yea for sure. I wanted to try Midwest, but if I buy online it'll be from Northern Brewer. But I'll probably be doing most business locally now because all I really will need in the future is bottles, priming sugar, specialty grains and occasional DME for making starters.

I got my own grain mill (corona) and am buying two sacks of grains.

So I chalk it up to trial and error, but if people are going to buy from Midwest, I'd suggest making sure to get them to double mill, see if they can grain finer or just buy unmilled and do it yourself.
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:21 AM   #28
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Yeah for BIAB get that grain nice and ground, my LHBS let's me weigh out and grind my grist on their MonsterMill hooked up to a Milwaukee, I always make sure there are no whole grains after milling. Haven't gotten lower then 70% efficiency

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Old 02-18-2013, 05:34 AM   #29
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I consistently get 75-80% efficiency and am lazy about lots of variables.
Better crush will help a ton. Also, it sounds like several posters are not squeezing the grain bag, which will extract a lot more sugar. Draining over a pot/bucket helps, but squeezing the crap out of the bag/grain adds a lot of gravity points. Another point might be larger water volumes; if someone is not using strike+sparge volumes in the pot with a very thin mash, then boiling down the runnings, lots of sugar might be getting left behind.

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Old 02-18-2013, 12:14 PM   #30
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I always get my grains from NB. I brewed yesterday and went to take an OG reading, trying to move fast since my daughter needed picked up from softball and i dropped my hydrometer and broke it. so i am hoping my beer will come out. I did taste the sample and it tasted about right so hopefully it is good! lol

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