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Old 07-17-2011, 01:58 PM   #1
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Default Trouble with Control Panel...Please Help

Whats up everyone,

I am in the middle of my Countertop Brutus build and tested out the HLT hooked up to the control panel for the first time. I have run into a couple bumps that I am hoping to get help with. My dad and I wired up the control box with the PID, SSR and 2 outlets for the pump and the HLT. We ran the hot into the box and jumped to everything that needed power with the use of wire nuts. we also used another jumper that had the 2 SSR wires and a hot wire, then hooked it to the HLT outlet. Everything is grounded no problem and the neutral wires seem to be in the right place. When I did my test run, the PID turned on and the probe was holding the proper temp within 2 degrees (I verified with a thermometer). My issue is that the SSR never seemed to open and close. The OUT light on the PID did not light up. When I ran the autotune, the element seemed to heat up as if I plugged it directly into an outlet. I set the autotune for 150 degrees, and when it hit 198 degrees I shut it off figuring that something was wrong. Everything seems to be working great except for the heat to the element not being controlled. I plugged a light into the kettle outlet and it never turned on and off.....just stayed constant which tells me that the SSR may not be working properly. I know if anyone can help me get this thing up and running (safely) it will be you guys. Thanks!

P.S I tried to attach a couple of pictures (hopefully it works lol). The black wires are hot and the SSR wires, and the green wires are neutral and ground.

img_2062.jpg   img_2063.jpg   img_2061.jpg  
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Old 07-17-2011, 02:23 PM   #2
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I also just double checked to polarity between the PID and the SSR and everything looks good. If anyone needs more picture just let me know and I will post more. Thanks.

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Old 07-17-2011, 02:34 PM   #3
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Were they new SSRs? If they are used, they can, and often do, fail in the on position (always hot). Your light bulb test indicates that might be the case. Also, check the voltage from your PID low-voltage leads to the SSR. If the SSR doesn't receive a signal, it won't activate.

It's real hard to trace your wiring due to just two colors. So I can't comment there.

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Old 07-17-2011, 02:47 PM   #4
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Just a couple more pictures I took with everything labeled....I figured it may help follow everything.

img_2064.jpg   img_2065.jpg   img_2066.jpg  
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Old 07-17-2011, 02:49 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reelale View Post
Were they new SSRs? If they are used, they can, and often do, fail in the on position (always hot). Your light bulb test indicates that might be the case. Also, check the voltage from your PID low-voltage leads to the SSR. If the SSR doesn't receive a signal, it won't activate.

It's real hard to trace your wiring due to just two colors. So I can't comment there.

Its a brand new 40A SSR from Auber. I will check the voltage.
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Old 07-17-2011, 04:25 PM   #6
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I went back and check out the PID contol settings. I found that the "OUTY" setting was set to 1 which disabled the SSR output. I changed it to 2 which is "SSR PID control Output". The "OUT" light and the light on the SSR is now blinking in sync. I plugged a lamp in and it still does not flash at all. I guess I can try filling the pot with some water and running autotune again....any other thoughts or settings I should change. I changed the HY band from 3 to 0 and made sure that the K type probe setting is selected. Maybe this thing is wired right and it is a program problem with the PID??

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Old 07-17-2011, 04:51 PM   #7
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Only other thing that comes to mind is to try a light bulb test with the output from the SSR directly. Bypass the outlet altogether. It's still really hard to trace your wiring from the pictures. But if you take the outlet out of the path, that will at least help you isolate the offending circuit. I'm assuming your pump is manual? And that the pump outlet is always hot? Is there a possibility that you've are testing with the wrong outlet? Just throwing out ideas...

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Old 07-17-2011, 07:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reelale View Post
Only other thing that comes to mind is to try a light bulb test with the output from the SSR directly. Bypass the outlet altogether. It's still really hard to trace your wiring from the pictures. But if you take the outlet out of the path, that will at least help you isolate the offending circuit. I'm assuming your pump is manual? And that the pump outlet is always hot? Is there a possibility that you've are testing with the wrong outlet? Just throwing out ideas...
Thanks for the ideas....I am running autotune right now and will see what I come up with. The pump outlet is manual, and is switch activated. How would I conduct a light bulb test with just the SSR??? I just want to do it safely. Would having the 2 SSR output wires connected to a hot wire have anything to do with it ie: should I maybe try just connecting the 2 SSR output wires to the hot on the outlet and leave the hot wire out of the picture?? I will try and take a couple more pictures. I am also just throwing out ideas at this point.....its getting frustrating to say the least. Thanks again.
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Old 07-17-2011, 10:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tfire136 View Post
Thanks for the ideas....I am running autotune right now and will see what I come up with. The pump outlet is manual, and is switch activated. How would I conduct a light bulb test with just the SSR??? I just want to do it safely. Would having the 2 SSR output wires connected to a hot wire have anything to do with it ie: should I maybe try just connecting the 2 SSR output wires to the hot on the outlet and leave the hot wire out of the picture?? I will try and take a couple more pictures.
You could just take the two ssr outputs and wire those directly to the light bulb. Your idea of just having the ssr ouputs feed one outlet (without the additional hot leg) alone is probably a good idea. Either way, you should isolate the PID/SSR combo to make sure they are working correctly. I think it's in your wiring.
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Old 07-18-2011, 01:57 AM   #10
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Reelale....thanks for the input. Tried the light bulb thing, and it did not work. This thing has been driving me nuts and more importantly has cut into my brew time. I am going to post a thread and see if there is a member who is experienced with this stuff who I can send it to (and compensate) for getting this thing up and running. Its all put together and would take someone who knows what they are doing 30 seconds to figure it out.

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