New Giveaway - Wort Monster Conical Fermenter!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > simple electric build




Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-30-2012, 12:55 PM   #1
borny
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 72
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Default simple electric build

Quick question.... Currently, I biab and use a simple rims setup to maintain mash temps and a separate control box to power the boil kettle, but I want to ultimately combine the two into one control box. If I were to change this diagram to control a rims tube using 120 volt circuit, but still be able to use the the PID as a control for 240 volt boil kettle, how would I do that? Would I use a 2 pole center off switch, but just use only one hot wire that would power the 120 rims outlet? Or would it work better using contactors?




Thank you, Dan



__________________
borny is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-30-2012, 12:56 PM   #2
borny
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 72
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Default

Almost forgot the diagram.....

forumrunner_20120430_075601.jpg


Thanks again in advance!



__________________
borny is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-03-2012, 01:10 AM   #3
borny
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 72
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Default

Bump

Just checking if anyone has any ideas..

Thank you!

__________________
borny is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-04-2012, 01:51 PM   #4
ryclo
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: marga, ritaville
Posts: 131
Liked 21 Times on 3 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

Just use the switched hot leg and neutral for your 120V rims element, easy!

__________________
ryclo is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-04-2012, 10:26 PM   #5
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,157
Liked 234 Times on 188 Posts
Likes Given: 400

Default

The diagram you posted is so very small that I cannot identify it.
Do you have the document ID name? (I'm the one that drew it.)

I'd be glad to redraw it for you with your planned setup.

P-J

__________________
P-J is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-05-2012, 12:37 AM   #6
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,157
Liked 234 Times on 188 Posts
Likes Given: 400

Default

Dan,

After spending a bunch of time trying to find my drawing, I finally hit on pay dirt.

So with that said, you have 2 alternatives on how you want to set up your controller. I modified the original diagram to show 2 alternatives.

As always - click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")

This is the 120V version of the RIMS setup:



And this is the 240V version of the RIMS setup:



Either one will work with a 240V - 30A power feed.
I really hope this helps you.

P-J

__________________
P-J is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-05-2012, 07:14 PM   #7
borny
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 72
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Default

Thanks for the feedback! Sorry for the slow response, had shoulder surgery earlier this week and I'm moving a bit slow. As soon as I can, I'm going to work on the control box.

Thanks P-J for the drawings! Kind of how I anticipated how it would look.

Right now, since the rims is set up for 120, I think I'm going to go the cheap route and just hook up the rims heater to a 120v circuit in the control box.



Thanks again!

__________________
borny is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-07-2012, 05:34 PM   #8
ryclo
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: marga, ritaville
Posts: 131
Liked 21 Times on 3 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

The 120V diagram should have the hot wired to the switch contol leg. Its showing it always on which does not allow the pid to control your rims element.

__________________
ryclo is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-07-2012, 08:38 PM   #9
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,157
Liked 234 Times on 188 Posts
Likes Given: 400

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ryclo View Post
The 120V diagram should have the hot wired to the switch contol leg. Its showing it always on which does not allow the pid to control your rims element.
OUCH... I'll fix that and edit this post when it is done.

Getting old just plain sucks.!

So Very Sorry,
P-J

Edit: Well it is corrected. Just do a refresh and it will show properly now.

The good news? You are very smart. Enough to catch me in a screw up.
Thank you. It is important for me to present accurate information.

P-J
__________________

Last edited by P-J; 05-07-2012 at 08:43 PM. Reason: update and fix it.
P-J is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-07-2012, 09:02 PM   #10
ryclo
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: marga, ritaville
Posts: 131
Liked 21 Times on 3 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

that looks better, getting old does suck indeed! I like to blame it on beer most of the time!



__________________
ryclo is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Simple Brutus 20 Electric Build digg1es Electric Brewing 10 08-15-2012 11:03 PM
Simple Electric setup Amity Electric Brewing 4 08-07-2012 03:44 AM
Simple Electric Build....From the Pros ekjohns Electric Brewing 111 04-10-2012 11:19 PM
Simple electric brewing?? Laouboy Electric Brewing 8 01-16-2011 01:16 PM
Simple Electric Brewery Diver165 Electric Brewing 22 12-13-2010 07:53 PM