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Old 01-11-2011, 03:16 AM   #11
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On a separate note, does anyone have any recommendations for a thermocouple or RTD to use for this application? I've been scoping out auberins.com, but haven't settled on anything yet. Since I'm doing BIAB, I'm obviously going to be using this to control my mash temps so am looking for something that can give me a pretty accurate reading.

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Old 01-11-2011, 12:31 PM   #12
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Just thought of one more thing. Since I can buy a spa panel with a 50A GFCI breaker from Home Depot cheaper than a single 30A GFCI breaker, I was planning on feeding the spa panel from a 30A non-GFCI breaker using 10 guage wire from my main panel. If I understand correctly, the 30A breaker in the main panel would offer protection for overcurrent, while the 50A breaker in the spa panel would offer GFCI protection. Just want to make sure there is acceptable.
That's what I'm doing as well. In this instance basically all the 50A GFCI breaker will be doing (other than protecting you from a ground fault) is protecting the wire so make sure the wire from the 50A GFCI to the element is at least #8.
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Old 01-11-2011, 12:43 PM   #13
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My plan is to use a Dual SSR and a DPST switch. I'm slowly gathering parts for my build.

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Old 01-11-2011, 12:59 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by HossTheGreat View Post
On a separate note, does anyone have any recommendations for a thermocouple or RTD to use for this application? I've been scoping out auberins.com, but haven't settled on anything yet. Since I'm doing BIAB, I'm obviously going to be using this to control my mash temps so am looking for something that can give me a pretty accurate reading.
Go RTD. They're more accurate and TC wires are brittle and may break over time with normal use movement.
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Old 01-11-2011, 02:10 PM   #15
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That's what I'm doing as well. In this instance basically all the 50A GFCI breaker will be doing (other than protecting you from a ground fault) is protecting the wire so make sure the wire from the 50A GFCI to the element is at least #8.
Shouldn't a 10 guage wire to the element be sufficient in this case since the max current on this circuit is only 30A.
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Old 01-11-2011, 02:12 PM   #16
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Go RTD. They're more accurate and TC wires are brittle and may break over time with normal use movement.
How about this one? I like the fact that it has a disconnect. Would a 2" probe be long enough to give an accurate reading?
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Old 01-11-2011, 03:02 PM   #17
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Shouldn't a 10 guage wire to the element be sufficient in this case since the max current on this circuit is only 30A.
The concern is that if you have a short or other problem you'll be sending a 30A+ load across that wire until the 30A GFCI trips. In the real world it really shouldn't be an issue as the GFCI should open the circuit before any damage occurs but you could theoretically burn up your wiring.
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Old 01-11-2011, 03:35 PM   #18
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The concern is that if you have a short or other problem you'll be sending a 30A+ load across that wire until the 30A GFCI trips. In the real world it really shouldn't be an issue as the GFCI should open the circuit before any damage occurs but you could theoretically burn up your wiring.
So should the wire from the main panel 30A breaker to the spa-panel 50A GFCI breaker be 8 guage as well?
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Old 01-11-2011, 03:36 PM   #19
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So should the wire from the main panel 30A breaker to the spa-panel 50A GFCI breaker be 8 guage as well?
IMHO it should be 6gu.
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Old 01-11-2011, 03:49 PM   #20
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Sorry if these questions are trivial, I thought that I had all of the wire sizes figured out but from the last couple of comments, now I'm not sure. Just trying to make sure I get this all right. So, 6 gauge from the main panel to the spa panel. Would you also recommend the same from the spa panel to the control panel? Then what size should I wire everything throughout the control panel? Just thinking that working with anything over 10 gauge in the control panel may be tough.

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