Brew Belts and Cellar Fermenting

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

nicklawmusic

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2014
Messages
311
Reaction score
7
Location
Sheffield
Hi folks,

I am about to brew my first brew but the only place I can ferment my beer (I'm doing the Wilko Newkie Brown kit) is in the cellar.

I've purchased a brew belt but I'm aware they don't have a thermostat and kick out a lot of heat.

Does have any advice regarding brew belts and regulating the temperature?

Thanks,
Nick
 
You have to have a temp controller for either a heating or cooling source that will alter the temp of the beer more than a couple of degrees. If you are up for the DIY route just search stc-1000, order one off Amazon, and start building! If not you have a couple options. Hydrofarm makes a controller for their seedling heat mats (the heat source I use-cheap @ $20) that runs $30-35. The drawback is it can only be used for heat and the lowest setting is 68°F. Then you start looking at pre-wired controllers like the Johnson A419, Ranco, Uni-Stat, etc. that run from $60 on up depending on what you get. If you can afford it it is convenient to get one that can be switched easily from heating to cooling. I have to take my Johnson apart and move jumpers around to do this-not a huge deal but extra time and energy nonetheless.

Sent from my Xoom using Home Brew mobile app
 
My plan this far was to buy one of those timers that you can program to go off an on and just do an hour on and an hour off. Not sure how effective it will be though.

I had bought one of those immersion heaters but it doesn't fit the airlock hole so I've had to send it back.
 
I've seen that you can buy plugs that have a temperature control on them, but I'm not entirely sure how they work.
 
I've seen that you can buy plugs that have a temperature control on them, but I'm not entirely sure how they work.

Normally those are the Ranco temperature controllers mentioned. They have a temperature probe that goes into either the wort or taped to the outside of the ferementer (preferably with some insulation). The brewbelt, heating pad, refrigerator, etc is plugged into the temperature controller.

Out of curiosity, what temperature is your cellar? Many yeasts can do well in high 50's F. As long you start at about 62 F, certain yeasts ferment so vigorously they raise the internal temperature of the wort significantly (10 F for S-04)...in this case you would actually be struggling to keep the temp down enough for the first couple of days if you cellar is at 59 F like my basement!
 
You will have waaay too much fluctuation with a timer. You want stable temps during fermentation. At those temps you could brew lagers with no adjustment at all. The heat put off by the fermentation would keep it in the ideal range for most lager yeasts. The biggest problem you'd have is raising the temps for a diacetyl rest but longer time at lower temp does the same thing. Check out the Hydrofarm controller. It would also be pretty cheap to build a small box out of foam sheeting and stick a small ceramic space heater in there, but I still think you would want a controller turning the unit on and off to maintain stable temps.

Sent from my Xoom using Home Brew mobile app
 
What about ale?

For ale most yeasts like 58 F to 64 F. Danstar Nottingham can usually tolerate down to about 54.

Since you are speaking in the (much more useful) metric temperature you are likely not in the US. If you are on 110V 60HZ voltage like we are, there are a number of temperature controller products to choose from. Not sure what off-the-shelf stuff there is available for the various other mains voltage but the STC-1000 solution does come in a myriad of variants because you assemble the components.

If all else fails, put the fermenter in another, bigger, bucket with the immersion heater in the bucket. Set your timer but be very conservative at like one hour on 4 hours off to start. The additional water volume (thermal mass) and indirect heating will somewhat stabilize the temperature fluctuations. Depending on the yeast, once fermentation has begun, you can likely turn it off for a couple of days and then kick it back to cycling once fermentation dies down to finish the beer.

It takes 20 kilos of wort a long time to change temperature in plastic and almost as long in glass. Keep that in mind with whatever method you choose.
 
I've packaged up the heater to go back and have already ordered the brew belt. Is there anything good about brew belts? I've read so many different opinions on them.

And yes, I'm in the UK.
 
My two cents worth is to stick a thermometer in the basement and check it periodically to see what the temperature is over a long period. I was surprised to discover that my basement is basically 60-65 F (15-18 C) all year 'round. I had been thinking about getting some fermentation control equipment stuff for my ales, and was happy not to spend the cash, seeing as how mother nature had already done so!
 
If you want to set it and forget it, then get the STC1000 like others have mentioned. It works great.

Besides cutting corners just try to use a yeast strain that works well at cooler temps. The White Labs Kolsch strain comes to mind, I forget the number, it's pretty clean and works well in the 50s.
 

How would that monitor or regulate the temperature of your fermentor? The sensor measures the ambient room temperature.

Many excellent suggestions have been voiced already.
Was the swamp cooler/heater mentioned? With an aquarium heater you can raise the temp of the water jacket. With frozen water bottles you can drop the temp.
 
What about ale?

Ale fermentation temps are why I was suggesting the controller to pair with either your brew belt, a heat mat, or a ceramic heater and an insulated box to conduct your fermentation in. You need to get stable temps in the low 60s at least (15-18°C) for ales to be happy and I'm trying to offer some affordable suggestions to do so. You only need to maintain those temps for about a week, then you could let it drop to ambient temp for another week or two and move your heat source to the next brew while the other conditions. And a bonus, the stc-1000 displays in Celsius which most of us Yank brewers ***** about!
 

That could work with a heat source like a ceramic heater or a heat mat that is designed to heat the area around your fermenter, but not as effective with the brew belt that heats your fermenter directly. As stated above, that will measure the air in your cellar and your beer could be 10-20°F warmer...not good. I'd go with the stc-1000 and a brew belt or build a cheap insulated box, use the temp sensitive plug, and another source of heat-heat mat, reptile heater, light bulb in a paint can, small ceramic heater. We aren't trying to be difficult, we're trying to help you avoid the frustration we experienced trying to jerry rig temp control!

Sent from my Xoom using Home Brew mobile app
 
From what I understand if you place the brewbelt higher on the fermentor it will add less heat, lower more heat. fill it up with some water and try it in different locations and see what kind of temps you get. I wouldn't over complicate your first batch. I just got a brewbelt but haven't had a chance to try it yet I may add controller down the road. Actually I am going to do just that today since I won't be brewing until maybe next week.
 
Forgot to mention the yeast is going to generate it's own heat so if you can bring your fermentor up to about 14.5 - 15.5 C you should be good.
 
all you need is a cardboard box that your fermenter will fit inside of, and a sharpie/ permanent marker. take the sharpie and write something like "Christmas presents, do not open" on the outside, and stick your fermenter inside it in the closet/room of your choice. If you get caught, someone's been snooping...
 

Latest posts

Back
Top