Kegerator to corney question

So only 1 brew into the new hobby I jumped the gun a bought a kegerator system. I know a little premature but I knew a guy that had it sitting ask what he wanted for it and I couldn't pass up the deal....but i don't know what I'll need to make it work with my future brews

http://www.edgestar.com/KC2000SS-Ed...ult,pd.html?cgid=Wine_and_Beverage-Kegerators

What did he give you with it? Im assuming you got the fridge, tower and facuet? Are there beer lines? CO2 tank?

davekippen said:

What did he give you with it? Im assuming you got the fridge, tower and facuet? Are there beer lines? CO2 tank?

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Yes he gave me everything. Tower ,faucet ,3 co2 tanks, beerlines,co2 lines and the regulator& coupling and a commercial keg

Sell two of the CO2 tanks, buy new beer lines, clean the faucets, and look for either corny kegs or or 1/6 barrel kegs. Assuming you make 5 gallon batches.

I just bought two more c02 tanks... having at least one extra is a good idea.... if you have a cabin or want a portable setup you'll want more than one as well.
I just picked up a used broken kegerator from a member here myself with 2 tanks... the relays often fail or need to be dissassembled and cleaned...I got lucky and thats what fixed mine (cleaning the contacts inside with a scotchbrite)
I used and old magicchef wine chiller and this kegerator works way better.

I'll sell one big co2 tank and keep the two small ones. New beerlines are for sure. I won't need to change any thing on the coupling to work with the corney keg? The set up now is for commercial kegs

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Keep the big tank!! You can use the co2 for a lot of things. Purging the head space of fermenters, carbing kegs that are waiting, blow the dust out of computers.
If you have room for the tank, you won't be sorry. I'd probably keep all 3.

most places charge almost the same amount to fill a 20lb tank as a 10 or 5 lb.... later if you force carbonate with co2 vs corn sugar to do it faster and not have the sediment at the bottom its a good idea to keep the big one ..

Yes toy first need to decide if your going with balllock kegs or pinlock...I have both, ball lock cost about a 3rd more than pinlock then you buy the gas and beer fittings and replace the single sanke fitting with the two separate fittings (the ball or pin fittings are between 5 and 7 bucks a piece... save your sanke fitting incase you ever buy a commercial keg.

augiedoggy said:

most places charge almost the same amount to fill a 20lb tank as a 10 or 5 lb.... later if you force carbonate with co2 vs corn sugar to do it faster and not have the sediment at the bottom its a good idea to keep the big one ..

Yes toy first need to decide if your going with balllock kegs or pinlock...I have both, ball lock cost about a 3rd more than pinlock then you buy the gas and beer fittings and replace the single sanke fitting with the two separate fittings (the ball or pin fittings are between 5 and 7 bucks a piece... save your sanke fitting incase you ever buy a commercial keg.

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Do you see any real difference between the ball lock and pin locks as far as durability is concerned?

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augiedoggy said:

most places charge almost the same amount to fill a 20lb tank as a 10 or 5 lb.... later if you force carbonate with co2 vs corn sugar to do it faster and not have the sediment at the bottom its a good idea to keep the big one ..

Yes toy first need to decide if your going with balllock kegs or pinlock...I have both, ball lock cost about a 3rd more than pinlock then you buy the gas and beer fittings and replace the single sanke fitting with the two separate fittings (the ball or pin fittings are between 5 and 7 bucks a piece... save your sanke fitting incase you ever buy a commercial keg.

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So my regulator doesn't have to change?
I will keep the big tank force carbing seems to be the way to go.

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Nope, regulator doesn't need to change. The one thing you might consider (I did this and am very happy I did) is to put quick disconnects on your gas and beer lines from the tower. That way you can have a set of connectors for corny kegs, as well as your commercial coupler and easily swap between them if you happen to purchase a commercial keg. I've bought sixtels before for parties, so it's nice to be able to quickly switch couplers.

cw_racefan said:

Nope, regulator doesn't need to change. The one thing you might consider (I did this and am very happy I did) is to put quick disconnects on your gas and beer lines from the tower. That way you can have a set of connectors for corny kegs, as well as your commercial coupler and easily swap between them if you happen to purchase a commercial keg. I've bought sixtels before for parties, so it's nice to be able to quickly switch couplers.

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I was actually considering that. What is the best type of disconnects?

Not sure about best, but I have these and they have worked fine.

OzMobrew said:

Do you see any real difference between the ball lock and pin locks as far as durability is concerned?

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ball locks just seem to be a better locking design but in reality they both work just as well... you just have to pay attention to the fact that the connector with the 3 pin cutouts goes with the 3 pinned post and the connector with the two pin cutouts.... well you get the picture... google for images of them and youll see what I mean. I suppose if your rough with them the ball lock ones would take more knocking around without leaking.
pin lock kegs are also shorter and slightly larger diameter I believe than ball lock kegs. my ball lock kegs are actually 10 gallon and all my 5 gallon are pinlocks... you can find pinlock kegs on sale from time to time for as little as $25 bit ball lock kegs keep going up and are harder to find used.

augiedoggy said:

pin lock kegs are also shorter and slightly larger diameter I believe than ball lock kegs. my ball lock kegs are actually 10 gallon and all my 5 gallon are pinlocks... you can find pinlock kegs on sale from time to time for as little as $25 bit ball lock kegs keep going up and are harder to find used.

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^^^ This! Very true. Most people will get rid of pin locks before ball locks. I have both, but mainly use the ball locks. Actually thinking about reselling my pin locks, now that I went to all the trouble of cleaning them up and putting new lids on 'em.