Zap Pap Sparge

[Fletch78]

I've been searching and reading old topics, which is how I am now aware of the term Zap Pap, ie Bucket in a Bucket.

It seems to be a consensus (in 2008) that it doesn't work well with batch sparging. Why?

 

[bullinachinashop]

Too much dead space under the false bottom.

When I use it and fly sparge, I typically get 75% eff. Another problem is the volume of the bucket. when they are stacked, you can only raise the water level to the top rim of the bottom bucket or else you'll overflow.

It does work well for medium gravity 5 gal batches.

Bull

 

[Fletch78]

That's interesting advice. I would have assumed that the weight of the grains and water in the inner bucket would be enough to hold it firmly down along the rim of the outer bucket; the volume of water in the dead space not being enough to displace the inner bucket, particularly with the spigot cracked open enough to provide moderately paced drainage to the kettle.

I appreciate the input... that is definitely a mistake that would have been made.

Let me also ask, since you've done this several times: Palmer's reference to Papazian says the holes should be no larger than 1/8th, I can go as small as 7/64ths with my dremel without investing in another piece. What would you recommend?

 

[gestyr]

What would you recommend?

I would recommend making a manifold for a cooler.

 

[MacGruber]

I used one for two AG batches and quickly made a MLT. The Zapap Tun worked okay, but only okay. I batch sparged and I had a mess. It spilled out from in between the two buckets both times, and I didn't have an efficient way of controlling the sparge flow. It was very hard to judge where I could fill my sparge water to in the bucket without fear of it overflowing from the top of the bottom bucket. I lost so much sweet wort and it hit my OG hard.

 

[bullinachinashop]

I've used it numerous time with great success. It really is a very easy, inexpensive way to do all grain.

What I found that works is to set a plastic plate on top of the grain bed and then gently pour your sparge water on top of that. I will maintain a 1" water level above the grain bed. I sparge out over 60 min and find it very easy to adjust the outgoing flow with the bottling spigot. 1 gallon every 10 minutes or so. The last 20 minutes or so I stop adding the sparge water.

If your patient and make sure that you don't raise the level above the bucket overlap, you can be successfull.

I still use it sometimes when I brew smaller batches inside.

Bull

 

[bgraham]

i mash in a mashtun that i kind of made up. it's a cross between a zapap and a converted drink cooler.

i just have a cheap 5 gallon bucket from home depot that i put a valve on the bottom outside of and then a stainless braid on the inside. my temperature only ever varies 1 degree on an hour mash, so i wonder what the benefit of a cooler is.

then you can easily batch sparge without spilling issues. although i must admit i can't do a full volume batch sparge since it wont fit. i just sparge twice in equal amounts. though you can't do that either with a zapap.

i'm usually between 75% and 80% efficiency. it's just as cheap and simpler with less parts to clean and no spilling issues... so long as you dont fill it past the top.

if what i'm describing isn't clear, say so and i'll post a pic.

 

[Fletch78]

Is it better to concentrate the drain holes in the center to avoid channeling of sparge water down the sides? Also, how many holes is too many holes? The hole size will be 7/64. Thanks!


Edit... Also, you don't stir in the batch sparge water to mix it up?

 

[bgraham]

you're making a lot of work for yourself by doing that. just put one of these in the bottom of a bucket with a valve on the outside.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Image:10_Braid-1-.jpg