Your experience with electric brewing systems?

[TyYoda]

I have a Foundry 10.5 that I run on 240 volts, and once I have learned about "some quirks," I like it pretty well. The main quirk is that the mash temp IS NOT what is displayed on the screen, but rather it is a consistent 6 degrees lower. The work around is to (1) lift the basket out several times during the mash so that the water outside the malt pipe and over temp sensor mixes with the liquid that sits over the burn plate; (2) adjust the Foundry temp setting 6 degrees higher than desired mash temp; (3) stir every 10 minutes and always recirculate with the pump. Another quirk is to always use the small batch adaptor, no matter the grain bill, to significantly increase efficiency. Finally, forget about a "mash-out." That is, if you adjust the Foundry temp up to 176 (with my 6 degree correction) the Foundry will read a temp of 176 in about 15 minutes, but if you stir and measure the mash temp it is only 160 or so.

My experience is similar but I don't have as much variance in the mash Temps because I typically do full volume biag without the malt pipe (just a false bottom). If you measure the temperature of the wort coming out of the recir pump tube you will find it matches the the display actual temp. What's important is to know there is a difference and adjust. I do a full stir to get a full average mash temp before adjusting. On my 10.5 the difference is usually 2-3F. I didn't use to find recirculating was all that useful in a full volume biab. However, with a false bottom, the recirculation helps mix in the wort below the bottom with the wort in the mesh bag. One of these days I'm going to mash without the false bottom. The Anvil won't hurt the mesh biab bag if the power is turned down to around 50% so I've read.

 

[kevin58]

I wish I had gone electric much sooner than I did which was about 5 years ago. Propane runs out. Propane is expensive. Propane is a pain in the arse. I currently have a 15 gallon, three vessel HERMs in my garage. Last year I bought an Anvil Foundry 10.5 to be able to brew in the house during the winter.

The process couldn't be much simpler. Fill the unit with strike water - set the controller to your desired strike temperature - Dough in when strike temperature is reached and set controller to mash temp. Done. The unit holds your mash temp as long as you want. When your mash is complete lift the basket - set the controller to boil. Done.

That is a simplified description but hits the highlights. When shopping for an all-in-one I will suggest that trying to heat and boil using household current kind of sucks. Chose a unit that operates on 240v.

 

[Spivey24]

I recently switched from a 15 gallon kettle, a brew bag, and a 220v induction to a Grainfather G40. Simple is definitely better for cleaning, but my induction cooktop died so I looked at other options. With 2 little kids running around I wanted something that would easily hold strike and mash temps and support step mashes with little fiddling. The Grainfather filled that. Cleaning is a bit more which I don’t like at all, but otherwise the software is great and sends me reminders at every step of the recipe I enter.

 

[auburntsts]

I recently upgraded to a 10 gal, 220v (5500W) Spike Solo single vessel e-biab system and love it. I used to do small batch stove top biab and the two things I like the most are the speed of 5500W and the temp control for both mash and boil the PID gives me.

 

[WesBrew]

I don’t brew on an AIO system but I switched to electric indoor brewing not too long ago. I must say it’s by far most amazing brewery upgrade and has made brewing more fun. I highly recommend brewing in the a/c , especially in the south! These AIO systems are a great way to do it with a small footprint.

 

[MikeCo]

For users of all-in-one systems with a malt pipe and systems like the Spike Solo with a solid-sided basket and recirculaton, are you left with clear wort for your boil? One thing I don't like about my BIAB process is that I have really cloudy wort in the boil. It doesn't seem to matter in the end, but it would be nice to filter more of the mash debris out.

 

[Jim R]

I've ordered THREE different 10-12 gallon cooler mash tuns from various suppliers, ALL of them leaked like there's no tomorrow, no matter what I tried. This got me thinking about going in another direction.

I don't quite understand this if this is your main reason for switching. I use a 5 gal Igloo water cooler for my mash tun and can easily make just about any beer in a 5 gal batch without any problem. I could also just buy the 10 gal version but have never found the need.

There are probably good reasons for spending the money on a whole new BIAB system but I am not sure a leaking mash tun should be the main reason.

 

[tracer bullet]

for my 5 gallon beers, I've got a 10 gallon mash tun and love the overhead. For BIAB pale ale type batches I'm up to the 7 gallon mark or so, and for any kind of Imperial I'm at the tip top. I dunno, that's just my method I guess.

You do have a point though, if it's a leaky cooler there's a decent chance it can be fixed. I finally tossed mine when I realized the inside wall was pretty cracked. I probably could have cut the outer shell and insulation off around the area but TBH I used it partly as an excuse to upgrade.

are you left with clear wort for your boil?

That's more likely to be method dependent, than to be system dependent. Your grains used, water treatment, if you recirculate / vorlauf, and so on.

 

[MikeCo]

That's more likely to be method dependent, than to be system dependent. Your grains used, water treatment, if you recirculate / vorlauf, and so on.

I ask because there isn't any good way I've found with straight BIAB to get clear wort in the kettle. Vorlaufing / recirculating may help a little but the unclear wort can just fall out the side of the bag after pouring it on top of the grain bed. The malt pipe would appear to help with this.

 

[riceral]

That is a simplified description but hits the highlights. When shopping for an all-in-one I will suggest that trying to heat and boil using household current kind of sucks. Chose a unit that operates on 240v.

The Anvil Foundry 10.5 gallon and 6.5 gallon units can be run on either 120V or 240V.

 

[kevin58]

The Anvil Foundry 10.5 gallon and 6.5 gallon units can be run on either 120V or 240V.

Yes, I know I have a 10.5. and that is why I said 110 sucks and recommend using 240.

 

[Martys1]

I recently picked up an Anvil Foundry 6.5 and even though I have only brewed on it 4 times,I am really enjoying it. I have the brew pots, and a keggle for bigger batches outside but I’m switching to 3 gal Recipes that I can brew inside.I’m also on 120v,no problem there, this unit works very well. The operating panel is very easy to use.It’s easy to clean.Pump works good also.I recently found a deal on a 10.5 but I was a day late and a dollar short.

 

[pinemarten]

Converting my three vessel HERMS system to electric is without question the most worthwhile change I’ve ever made. I cannot imagine going back to propane. It’s pricey to make the switch initially but I think I was underestimating the cost in dollars and time of dealing with propane. I’m positive it’s paid for itself over the years. Also, moving indoors makes brewing so much more enjoyable. I brew more often because I’m indoors and it’s not simply to avoid the cold. I love not having to ever think about something as simple as wind messing up my brew. Brewing is a lot more fun when you’re not mostly fighting with equipment.

 

[sibelman]

I've been an electric brewer for over 30 years. But these (cool, compact) all in ones seem disturbingly disposable if the proprietary electronics crater. I'm big on modularity.

 

[Homebrewer20]

I have the unibrau 10 gallon premium and love it, Steven is really great and will hook you up! It is a bit pricey, but still on the cheaper side for the premium systems. I didn't go with clawhammer because their design looks flawed.. I don't want a basket with holes In the sides, it screams low efficiency!
The spike system looks pretty great as well, but unibrau sold me

 

[GodsOwnDrunk]

How much will your electric bill increase if you go with one of these systems?

 

[Homebrewer20]

How much will your electric bill increase if you go with one of these systems?

Well I would assume with gas prices way up this year and no chance of coming down for the next 2.5 years, it would be a no brainer to switch to electric.. Although I don't have any numbers in front of me, I'd assume you can't go wrong

 

[doogster]

Just a note: You cannot do a traditional fly sparge (1" - 2" of liquid over the grain bed) with the all-in-one (AIO) units. You can to a pour over sparge (no liquid above grain bed), which is not as efficient as a traditional fly sparge. (No, I haven't seen any actual measurements, and it is not possible to simulate accurately.) It is not necessary to heat sparge water, but doing so will speed up the time to reach boiling.

Brew on

Not sure what about other AIOs but I do a fly sparge (i.e. 1-2" of sparge water over the grain bed) with every batch on my Grainfather. After mashout, simply lift the basket, and as the liquid level drops let the top filter plat come to rest lightly on top of the grain bed and then start the flow of your sparge water (I feed mine from a gott cooler). Adjust the flow of the sparge water so it matches the flow through the grain bed and let it rip. If your crush is right, and your grain bed is setup well, you have a nice slow, even sparge. I suppose you could achieve the same by pouring sparge water from a pitcher on top... just have to keep up with the drainage to the liquid level stays high enough.

FWIW - I've been using a Grainfather G30 110v for years, and about 100 batches now... and love it. Especially the ability to brew indoors, year round. That, easy cleanup, and compact stoarge make it (any AIO, electric) a no brainer if you have the funds.

 

[doug293cz]

Not sure what about other AIOs but I do a fly sparge (i.e. 1-2" of sparge water over the grain bed) with every batch on my Grainfather. After mashout, simply lift the basket, and as the liquid level drops let the top filter plat come to rest lightly on top of the grain bed and then start the flow of your sparge water (I feed mine from a gott cooler). Adjust the flow of the sparge water so it matches the flow through the grain bed and let it rip. If your crush is right, and your grain bed is setup well, you have a nice slow, even sparge. I suppose you could achieve the same by pouring sparge water from a pitcher on top... just have to keep up with the drainage to the liquid level stays high enough.

FWIW - I've been using a Grainfather G30 110v for years, and about 100 batches now... and love it. Especially the ability to brew indoors, year round. That, easy cleanup, and compact stoarge make it (any AIO, electric) a no brainer if you have the funds.

Is your grain bed still saturated with wort during your sparge? If not, then it is not the same as a traditional fly sparge. Most grain beds will not stay saturated without a flow restriction at the bottom of the vessel containing the grain.

What is your typical sparge water volume, and how long does it take you to sparge? Do you recirculate wort during the mash (it seems to me that a bed that would flow slow enough to stay saturated without a bottom flow restriction, would be too compacted to be able to recirculate.)

Brew on

 

[Homebrewer20]

Is your grain bed still saturated with wort during your sparge? If not, then it is not the same as a traditional fly sparge. Most grain beds will not stay saturated without a flow restriction at the bottom of the vessel containing the grain.

What is your typical sparge water volume, and how long does it take you to sparge? Do you recirculate wort during the mash (it seems to me that a bed that would flow slow enough to stay saturated without a bottom flow restriction, would be to compacted too be able to recirculate.)

Brew on

Exactly the problem I have when the basket is lifted is that, the water flows through too quickly when fly sparging.. Too much dead space beneath where the elements are.. Any solutions would be appreciated!

 

[chuckyboomboom]

Exactly the problem I have when the basket is lifted is that, the water flows through too quickly when fly sparging.. Too much dead space beneath where the elements are.. Any solutions would be appreciated!

I have an Anvil Foundry, and a hoist in my garage ceiling. I simply raise the basket enough for the water level to come down to just above the top of the grain, set the hoist and start adding sparge water. When the water levels equalize, I repeat the process until sparge is complete, then lift the basket out completely. Usually takes about 25-40 mins depending on the grain bill. I always calculate my strike water volume at ~1.5 qt/lb, then add ~1.8 gal to compensate for dead space in the Anvil. The remaining water I use for sparge. I usually get mash efficiency in the low-mid 80s if I do everything right. It would probably make sense to just add more grain and not worry about it, but I like doing it.

 

[doogster]

Is your grain bed still saturated with wort during your sparge? If not, then it is not the same as a traditional fly sparge. Most grain beds will not stay saturated without a flow restriction at the bottom of the vessel containing the grain.

What is your typical sparge water volume, and how long does it take you to sparge? Do you recirculate wort during the mash (it seems to me that a bed that would flow slow enough to stay saturated without a bottom flow restriction, would be too compacted to be able to recirculate.)

Brew on

Yes - the grain is holding wort, but obviously its trickling out the bottom when I lift the basket. I guess I have crush that just works for me... wort flows through the grain during the mash, and I am recirculating the entire time. Once I life the basket and let the wort drip out into the boiler, while adding sparge water on top, it takes 30-40 minutes or so... haven't timed it in a very long time. My mash / sparge volumes are typically on the order of 4.5g mash to 3.5g sparge for an average strength brew... higher amounts for mashing if the grain bill is exceptionally large.

 

[doug293cz]

Yes - the grain is holding wort, but obviously its trickling out the bottom when I lift the basket. I guess I have crush that just works for me... wort flows through the grain during the mash, and I am recirculating the entire time. Once I life the basket and let the wort drip out into the boiler, while adding sparge water on top, it takes 30-40 minutes or so... haven't timed it in a very long time. My mash / sparge volumes are typically on the order of 4.5g mash to 3.5g sparge for an average strength brew... higher amounts for mashing if the grain bill is exceptionally large.

You may have accomplished a very tricky balancing act.

Brew on