Yet another where do I start with electric thread

[runningweird]

Alright, time to bring this back from the dead.

I was inspired to dive in because my mash tun developed a nice crack in the plastic and I managed to find a keg to convert. Another forum member sold me two 5500 w camco RIPP elements - which should be shipping today. I built the bakatronics PWM and it works, I am going to be scrounging for electrical boxes and the like at a junk store today.

so, as I need to have my hand held through this entire enterprise here is today's first question:

Will either of these cheap SSR's work for a 5500 watt element running on 240 in my BK powered by a PWM?

Solid state relay SSR 90-480V AC/ 90A output 3-32V DC | eBay

Brand New Solid State Relay SSR 3-32VDC/24-220VDC 40A | eBay
http://www.amazon.com/40A-SSR-Solid-State-Relay/dp/B005KPIX9A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1326293751&sr=8-2

 

[runningweird]

I would rather the one from amazon - since it will be at my house in two days

 

[lschiavo]

The amazon one should work fine. 40A is what I used. I dont know why the listing says 3500W max?? I would suggest an external mount heat sink. It makes mounting much easier.

 

[P-J]

Make sure that you also get a heatsink for the SSR.

Edit: Well - I waited too long before posting. lschiavo, you beat me too it.

 

[clearwaterbrewer]

I like the Mager ones myself, here is one with a heatsink included for $12.49 shipped:
Solid State Relay SSR 24-480V AC 40A + Heat Sink[K226] | eBay

That one is shipped from China, which I have had no problems with. If you want one shipped form the US, your FUTEK with a heatsink is a few dollars more, $18.76 shipped:
SSR-40DA-H DC 3-32V Input Solid State Relay 40A w Aluminum Heat Sink | eBay

I suggest using a 30A fuse of circuit breaker to protect the SSR, cheap insurance..

-mike

 

[runningweird]

I have a couple heat sinks - I can make them work.

okay, now I need an enclosure to house all the stuff in, hope I can find one cheap. I also need to go buy a spa panel.

 

[lschiavo]

I have a couple heat sinks - I can make them work.

okay, now I need an enclosure to house all the stuff in, hope I can find one cheap. I also need to go buy a spa panel.

Some guys have all the fun. My system is done Now all I can do is brew with it...

 

[runningweird]

bad news everyone. The junk stores turned up nothing. Now I have to pay retail.

cheap enclosure from Home Depot here I come.

going to follow ischiavos parts list somewhat - with room to grow.

 

[runningweird]

got a hole for the weldess bulkhead put in - took me a long time to discover the gash in my thumb through which I had been bleeding on all the tools...stupid razor sharp edge.

 

[runningweird]

so today I got two camco 5500 elements, a spa panel, and a 4 prong drier cord from truevalue.

in wiring the spa panel is do I have to wire it from a breaker in the other panel?

I have a secondary panel in my garage that comes from the main box in the basement - its a 60 Amp 220/240 line leading to it - can I just wire the new panel from the main line connects?
Im not explaining myself properly - so here is a picture. Is there any way to connect the spa panel to this breaker without adding anything else?

please forgive my newbness.

 

[P-J]

...
please forgive my newbness.

No image...

 

[runningweird]

Fixed

 

[lschiavo]

Spa panel is 50A? I would feed the spa panel from a 2-pole 50A breaker in the garage panel since you have the breaker space.

I cant tell from the pic but it looks like your ground and neutral in the garage panel may be common? They should be isolated there and in the spa panel.

 

[runningweird]

so that means I have to buy another breaker?

I see what you mean bout the gorund and the neutral being together - I rent so I plan on using the 50A spa panel as a ground

 

[lschiavo]

Yeah, I would use another breaker. A QO250 should be less than $15.

A small ground bar would be a few bucks and take care of the grounding issue. Usually the ground bar number is on the sticker in the panel or on the cover. Remove the green screw if it is installed if you add the bar.

 

[runningweird]

will this one work? I assume it will since its 60a instead of 50 - the one on the downstairs breaker box is 60 as well.

 

[lschiavo]

Sure, that will work. Either way use #6 to feed the spa panel.

 

[lschiavo]

If you do not fix the ground, make sure the panel is bonded. The enclosure needs to be tied to ground either by that green screw or a lug. If its not and happens to become hot, it will not trip a breaker.

 

[runningweird]

#6?

 

[lschiavo]

#6 wire is good for 60A. Also needed for 50A.

 

[runningweird]

If you do not fix the ground, make sure the panel is bonded. The enclosure needs to be tied to ground either by that green screw or a lug. If its not and happens to become hot, it will not trip a breaker.

what green screw? and how do I go about bonding the panel?

I understand about 30% of what you said...need to read more

 

[lschiavo]

Sorry, typing on this phone sucks and I try to make it concise.

Here is a diagram of a properly wired subpanel. Yours may be, I cannot tell from the pic. If the neutrals and grounds are attached to the same buss, it is not correct.

 

[runningweird]

so I need to install a grounding bar/bus in the panel pictured above correct?

 

[lschiavo]

Can you get a closer pic of the area where the neutrals and grounds tie in maybe from the side a bit? It almost looks like two bars, but I can't tell.

 

[runningweird]

sure, one second.

 

[runningweird]

 

[runningweird]

I can make that bigger if need be.

 

[lschiavo]

That looks to be done right. Sorry to mislead. Carry on.

 

[runningweird]

so I don't need to add anything then?

I feel like I won something!

now to find some #6 wire

 

[runningweird]

do I then need 6 gauge wire going to the 4 prong female receptical as well?