Yeast for 1-Gallon Batches

[violinguy]

I'm brewing a couple of test batches in the next few weeks, and I'm wondering about yeast usage. In the past, I've always used half a pouch of Danstar or Safale dry yeast for a 1g batch, but a recipe I want to do should really use one of the Bavarian Wheat strains from Wyeast.

Can I pitch half a container of that or should I stick with dry?

Thanks

 

[IslandLizard]

I would make a 2l starter with the liquid yeast. After cold crashing and decanting, pitch the amount needed into the 1 gallon test batch. Save the rest in a small mason jar in the fridge for your full batch.

 

[violinguy]

Thank you. I have zero experience with yeast starters, but eventually I'm going to have to do it. For now, I'm going with Mangrove Jack Bavarian Wheat dry yeast. When I make this in larger batches, I'll switch to Wyeast, that is, if I don't absolutely love the dry...

 

[IslandLizard]

Thank you. I have zero experience with yeast starters, but eventually I'm going to have to do it. For now, I'm going with Mangrove Jack Bavarian Wheat dry yeast. When I make this in larger batches, I'll switch to Wyeast, that is, if I don't absolutely love the dry...

Dry yeast is certainly easier, as long as it gives you the flavor profile you're after.

Here's an alternative take on using liquid yeast.
Don't make a starter, but, as you said yourself, pitch half the liquid package into the gallon batch, saving the rest in a (small) sanitized 4 oz mason jar.* Then harvest the yeast from that 1 gallon batch and use for your large batch. Yeast will be good for at least 3 months stored in the fridge. That way your small batch acts as the starter batch. It works well since most wheat beers are lowish gravity, are light, and not drenched in (dry) hops.

Making starters and harvesting yeast is quite easy, becomes second nature after a few times.

* The main reason I brought up making a starter from the whole Wyeast pack is to prove viability and ramp up the cell count. Splitting a pack of liquid yeast desires a little dexterity and planning, while judging the amount to pitch is a bit of a challenge since the amount of (thin) slurry is quite small. You don't want to overpitch (which is not a major concern) or leave anything behind either. If you've used Wyeast before, you know the packs have a little nutrient/activator bubble that, after you smack it, is a great indicator of the yeast's actual viability. It also increases the volume somewhat.

 

[violinguy]

Thanks again. Yes, I've used Wyeast before and it's pretty easy - just smack the nutrient pack and off you go. I'm trying to do something new with each brew so I can eventually brew anything with any ingredients. I'm working to get my BIAB efficiency up right now by trying to get the mash ph correct. After that, I may move on to yeast starters, then harvesting. Hanging around here has certainly helped me get better.

Thanks again.

 

[IslandLizard]

Thanks again. Yes, I've used Wyeast before and it's pretty easy - just smack the nutrient pack and off you go. I'm trying to do something new with each brew so I can eventually brew anything with any ingredients. I'm working to get my BIAB efficiency up right now by trying to get the mash ph correct. After that, I may move on to yeast starters, then harvesting. Hanging around here has certainly helped me get better.

Thanks again.

For better efficiency, definitely scrutinize your malt crush. Most if not all LHBS mill way too coarsely, especially for BIAB mashing. Mill twice, thrice, or better yet, get them to tighten the gap or mill your own. For example, @mongoose33 mills at 0.020", LHBS mill gaps are 0.035" at best, the majority are way worse, like 0.045" or wider. Small kernel grain, like rye and wheat, also need a tighter gap or they fall right through without breaking them up. For BIAB you should have a fair amount of flour and grain pieces no larger than 1/16".

 

[whovous]

I stuck with dry yeast for the longest time because all the writing I found about the entire process of starting, harvesting and re-using liquid yeasts seemed to me to be written in some strange and hitherto unknown language. Almost none of it made sense to me. How do you count in billions? How do you know what you've started with and what you've finished with? How many generations can you get from a single strain? How do you know when your yeast has spent too much time in the fridge? What do you do when the yeast you've planned for this weekend's brew wakes up dead on you?

I decided to start doing it anyway, and to learn from the inevitable mistakes if and when I made them. This is the weird part. I don't seem to have made any mistakes yet. Every yeast has come back to life and done just what it was supposed to do when I brewed. I am someone who has grown sadly accustomed to making mistakes when I brew, but so far at least, liquid yeast seems to happily do whatever I ask it to do.

 

[violinguy]

For better efficiency, definitely scrutinize your malt crush. Most if not all LHBS mill way too coarsely, especially for BIAB mashing. Mill twice, thrice, or better yet, get them to tighten the gap or mill your own. @Mongoose mills at 0.020", LHBS mill gaps are 0.035" at best, the majority are way worse, like 0.045" or wider. Small kernel grain, like rye and wheat, also need a tighter gap or they fall right through without breaking them up. For BIAB you should have a fair amount of flour and grain pieces no larger than 1/16".

I've ordered my next 3 batches from Ritebrew - they will double crush. Also, they sell by the ounce and will put all the grains you specify in one bag. Pretty nice if you ask me. Can't wait til my next batch.

 

[balrog]

I've ordered my next 3 batches from Ritebrew - they will double crush. Also, they sell by the ounce and will put all the grains you specify in one bag. Pretty nice if you ask me. Can't wait til my next batch.

+1 on Ritebrew. Just awesome. I've been BIAB for 2 years now and always get my recipes built and double milled by Neil. I'm not chasing efficiency of extraction but consistency, and I've always been happy.

Just wanted to add $0.02 about starters from Wyeast; I always make them, building using HomebrewDad's online calc, to make 100b more and save in sanitized mason jar, using that for next starter. Some strains go 5x easy, some start getting sluggish and that's when I buy a new packet to begin again.