YABC-Yet a Brew Controller: BrewManiacEx

[pbezza]

Since updating, I've been having connection issues where I can't connect at all via my router or directly to the AP (192.168.4.1). The page times out. I started from scratch, erased flash and re uploaded the 0.49 bin file and now have another problem. I am presented with the below page but when I click update, I get a "errror:connection refused" message. I tried ticking the 'Fresh install:Format SPIFFS and download all" option but after it formats, I get the same error. I tried reflashing again but get almost the same page but there is nothing under 'HTML/Javescript version: 0'. I reset the esp8266 but now can't bring up this page at all. Am I missing a step?

 

[pbezza]

Just got it working again using PlaformIO and the full interface is available but after resetting the esp8266, I can't connet to it any more. The blue led on the esp8266 is flashing roughly twice a second.

 

[Bigdaddyale]

This sounds like you need to completely erase the esp8266 and start over. Release Improved ESP32 Support · thorrak/brewflasher

 

[pbezza]

I have been writing blank bin files to the entire address space prior to flashing again. Keep running into issues. Brewflasher doesn't have an option for BrewmaniacEX

 

[Bigdaddyale]

I have been writing blank bin files to the entire address space prior to flashing again. Keep running into issues. Brewflasher doesn't have an option for BrewmaniacEX

There are a couple of steps that you need to follow - All you need BF for is to completely erase the esp8266 and get rid of the old wifi stuff- then use your normal program to load the .bin files

 

[Bigdaddyale]

Try theses settings

 

[pbezza]

Ok thanks for that. Much easier to wipe flash that way. Still no luck. I can access the gui after flashing via PlatformIO and after I configure the access point to connect to my router I can access it via the static IP. As soon as the esp8266 is reset one more time, it is no longer accessible with the blue LED flashing roughly twice a second.

This is what I see in the serial monitor:

ets Jan 8 2013,rst cause:2, boot mode:3,0)

load 0x4010f000, len 1392, room 16
tail 0
chksum 0xd0
csum 0xd0
v3d128e5c
~ld

 

[pbezza]

Is there a bug in the firmware regarding WiFi?
I just reflashed via ESP8266Flasher.exe again and set a static IP in my router instead of the brewmaniacex gui and after that I selected update now under 'HTML/Javescript version' and it updated without any errors. It is also still working perfectly after 10 power cycles.

 

[Bigdaddyale]

BrewManiacEx 0.5 BETA is now available:
https://github.com/vitotai/BrewManiacEsp8266/tree/050beta

 

[khannon]

The esp8266 has 4M or 16M(pro version) of flash. Web server, db for loging and pages for UI. Hard time filling 256k???? Bet he's into a couple meg.

it's the libs that kill you. nothing is written anymore to conserve memory.. Sad that those of us who cut their teeth on 4-8(expensive)k of ROM get back into some of these boards and (I guess I'm grateful for those that do the low level $#!+ these days..) find that nothing is done without .5-2M of space, maybe we need to go back to 7bit bytes?
4-16M of space is a lot.. don't waste it..
(yeah, oldish guy here)

 

[TypicalNerveCell]

I'm about to start ordering parts for the pcb and I'm wondering about the phoenix contacts. Am I correct in assuming that any old phoenix contact with a 5.08mm pitch will work?

 

[RollE2k]

Correct, if you talk about my board.

 

[TypicalNerveCell]

I am, thanks! Just noticed that you (seem) to be based in Sweden? You wouldn't happen to have any boards for sale?

 

[RollE2k]

I think i may have som v1.1 boards, i have to check tomorrow. Cannot remember what the changes was to 1.11 though. Probably som small error just. So long since i built my two boards.

you are also based in Sweden, if so i can probaby send you a board for a small fee. drop me a pm.

 

[Singing Indurain]

Hi RollE2k

Thanks for the reply.

My LCD works fine. I am trying to see the effect of the buttons on the LCD.

I have a 4-button membrane setup. Plugging this into the headers and pressing buttons does not seem to cause anything to happen.

I have a PCF8574P soldered next to the D1, so there shouldnt be any issues there either...

I have enabled the ButtonViaPCF8574 flag and scanned the I2C addresses. I have then tried all the available addresses within that flag, but i have not been able to get the buttons working.

I have even shorted these headers directly to make sure the buttons are not defunct.

Any ideas?

H Ender2336,

Did you ever find a resolution to your buttons issue? I have the same problem and so I'm currently looking for a solution.

 

[ZeSlammy]

Hello. Has anyone rewired a Klarstein All in One using BrewManiac ?

It has basically 2 Heating Elements and a Pump.
I guess I should declare the 1800W as Sparge Heating and the 700W as the Heating and I'm good to go ?
I want to add a motorized paddler as well. I'm thinking about putting it together with the pump.
Do I have another option ?

 

[Singing Indurain]

H Ender2336,

Did you ever find a resolution to your buttons issue? I have the same problem and so I'm currently looking for a solution.

To close this, I did find the resolution. I used the wrong port PCF8574AP port expander, but replaced it with PCF8574N. Both were purchased as PCF8574P on AliExpress and EBay, but the actual versions were different. I believe the addressing between the circuits differ.

 

[Singing Indurain]

Hello. Has anyone rewired a Klarstein All in One using BrewManiac ?

It has basically 2 Heating Elements and a Pump.
I guess I should declare the 1800W as Sparge Heating and the 700W as the Heating and I'm good to go ?
I want to add a motorized paddler as well. I'm thinking about putting it together with the pump.
Do I have another option ?

View attachment 719971

 

[Singing Indurain]

I just finalized BrewManiac for my all-in-one system, and I have connected 2x 1250w elements in parallel. It was however just finalized, so I have not been able to test it yet. If you decide to do it, I have created an enclosure to be 3D-printed. You can find this here: BrewManiac Control Box by Geirn

 

[pbezza]

I just finalized BrewManiac for my all-in-one system, and I have connected 2x 1250w elements in parallel. It was however just finalized, so I have not been able to test it yet. If you decide to do it, I have created an enclosure to be 3D-printed. You can find this here: BrewManiac Control Box by Geirn

Nice. Do you have photos of the wiring/connections under the boiler? Interested to see.

 

[Singing Indurain]

Nice. Do you have photos of the wiring/connections under the boiler? Interested to see.

Yes, I obviously replaced the very minimalistic all-in-one electronic board (with on-board PSU and relays) with a separate 12V PSU and 2 SSR relays, whereof the one to the heating elements is with heat sink. I fixed it all to the side of the base. I’m still connected to the physical pump switch, as I was thinking of being able to turn of the pump during mashing to stir, even in automatic mode. However, this might be possible from the controller too(?)

 

[ZeSlammy]

@Singing Indurain (love that nickname) : It's a Klarstein then ? Looks promising for what I want to do

 

[Singing Indurain]

@Singing Indurain (love that nickname) : It's a Klarstein then ? Looks promising for what I want to do

He-he, came to think about that name while I was exercising on my bike in the rain I’t not a Klarstein, but I suppose they are not that different. This is a BB30 Automatic, that I believe was maybe just sold in Norway. I bought it with broken electronics for this purpose. You can see it here:

 

[pbezza]

Yes, I obviously replaced the very minimalistic all-in-one electronic board (with on-board PSU and relays) with a separate 12V PSU and 2 SSR relays, whereof the one to the heating elements is with heat sink. I fixed it all to the side of the base. I’m still connected to the physical pump switch, as I was thinking of being able to turn of the pump during mashing to stir, even in automatic mode. However, this might be possible from the controller too(?)

Thanks for that. I still need convert my urn and was unsure how the SSR and pump would handle being so close to the underside of the elements. I will definitely print your electronics enclosure, cheers.

 

[ZeSlammy]

OK for the life of me I cannot find a 7805DT in TO252 package. What should be the specs for the voltage regulator ? 5V output. What should be the max I output ? Is 100 mA enough ? Shall I go to 1500 mA ?

 

[Singing Indurain]

OK for the life of me I cannot find a 7805DT in TO252 package. What should be the specs for the voltage regulator ? 5V output. What should be the max I output ? Is 100 mA enough ? Shall I go to 1500 mA ?

I have not really reflected over required specs, but I ordered TO263 packaging (without actually realizing). It is a bit big, but it works fine and I was able to mount it by cutting/modifying its pins. I ordered this:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrw0AGb

 

[ZeSlammy]

I just bought that : https://www.reboul.fr/storage/0000309c.pdf
I might have to bend some pins but I guess it should do the trick.

Edit : It did. Moving forward....
Haven't connected a screen though

Edit 2 : Screen connected, Got Web, attached to Network, can do stuff. Can't see anything on screen though.

Edit 3 : Using the "small I2C board at the back of the screen", will remove IC3 (or small board at the back)

 

[pbezza]

OK for the life of me I cannot find a 7805DT in TO252 package. What should be the specs for the voltage regulator ? 5V output. What should be the max I output ? Is 100 mA enough ? Shall I go to 1500 mA ?

Search for LM7805 and 78M05

 

[ZeSlammy]

Ok quick update (and call for help).
I get it all up and running, have a dual heater setup.
Pump work, Heater 1 get 11 or so volts on the HTR/ACT1 and LED.
But when I am in BOTH or Heater 2 only, I only got something like 3 Volts on the SHTR/ACT3 & LED outputs.
Did I swap resistors ?

 

[ZeSlammy]

OK I rechecked everything, doing everything back step by step. I ckecked my BC337s, my diods, my Rs,nothing fried.

My issue is that nothing happens on the D8 Pin of the D1 Mini when I trigger ACT3/Secondary Heater.
On D7, I have the 0 to 3.3V trigger happening, same on D5 for the pump.
But D8 stays at 0 all the time.


Could it be a Defective D1 ? Where JUST this would be broken ?