Wine stuck at 0.6Brix

[noofie2]

I have ten gallons of pinot noir and ten gallons of cabernet sauvignon in primary fermenters for 11 days now since inoculation with hydrated yeast with GoFerm. The Brix seems to have stalled at +0.6 on the -5 to +5 precision hydrometer. It has been 0.5Brix for the last two days. Should I wait til it drops more and risk spoilage if it takes too long or press and transfer the carboys with airlocks at this point?

 

[Elfmaze]

I am guessing you know that refractometers present error once alcohol is formed? there are correction factors... But better to switch to a hydrometer for SG readings. Refractometer is best kept to OG readings.

 

[RPh_Guy]

I am guessing you know that refractometers present error once alcohol is formed? there are correction factors... But better to switch to a hydrometer for SG readings. Refractometer is best kept to OG readings.

He's using a hydrometer.

The Brix seems to have stalled at +0.6 on the -5 to +5 precision hydrometer.

Are you reading at the calibration temperature for your hydrometer?
Have you made sure the hydrometer reads 0 in distilled/RO water at calibration temperature?
How many days has the reading been stable?

I suppose I'd suggest to transfer at this point. If you opened the fermenter to take the hydrometer readings, you're better off reducing the oxygen exposure by moving to secondary.

Cheers and welcome to HBT!

 

[noofie2]

Thanks for the feedback. Yes I'm using a precision -5 to +5 hydrometer at this point. My confusion stems from my understanding of the distortion of the hydrometer reading caused by the alcohol i.e. a reading of +0.5Brix really means the sugar is about 2Brix when you allow for the alcohol's effect on the reading. Am I correct on this? Temperature is not a big issue because the must has now dropped to 66F which is close to the hydrometer's calibration temperature. So if I am correct the sugar is still in reality around 2Brix and stuck for the last three days. Based on this my thinking is to press into carboys ASAP and try to continue the primary fermentation there followed by the ML "fermentation" later. Am I correct or off base in my thinking? It's been awhile since I did this in my younger years and I'm trying to remember all these little details. Thanks again for your feedback.

 

[noofie2]

I have another minor question on the forum format. Why do I see two duplicate profile pictures against my name beside my thread?

 

[RPh_Guy]

precision -5 to +5 hydrometer

-5 to +5 brix? Most of the time when talking about hydrometer readings, homebrewers use the specific gravity, not brix. Hence the confusion you saw up above.

My confusion stems from my understanding of the distortion of the hydrometer reading caused by the alcohol i.e. a reading of +0.5Brix really means the sugar is about 2Brix when you allow for the alcohol's effect on the reading. Am I correct on this?

A hydrometer measures density. Nothing "distorts" the density as long as you measure the density of the liquid at the temperature at which the hydrometer is calibrated.
It's standard practice to use these hydrometer readings at face value and we have modeling equations to calculate the estimated ABV.
It's true that the density (read by a hydrometer) doesn't tell you the amount of dissolved solids when alcohol is present because the alcohol is less dense than water. Knowing the actual dissolved solids isn't important; we use the apparent reading. If the wine is apparently near 0 brix (1.000 s.g.) and stable, we presume the wine is finished fermenting, not "stuck".

Based on this my thinking is to press into carboys ASAP and try to continue the primary fermentation there followed by the ML "fermentation" later.

The goal is to prevent oxidation. There's more than one method that works. The wine needs to be protected from oxygen either by active yeast, lack of oxygen, or sulfite.
If you add sulfite, MLF becomes more difficult, but there are other ways to reduce acidity or add mouthfeel, so it's not absolutely necessary.

I have another minor question on the forum format. Why do I see two duplicate profile pictures against my name beside my thread?

The little icon means that you've posted on that thread.

 

[Elfmaze]

He's using a hydrometer.

ops missed that!

 

[noofie2]

Thanks to all. Since I'm steady at 0.5Brix I'm going to press and trasfer to carboys for both the PN and the CS and then try to restart the primary fermentation to get a lower Brix. I'm still a bit confused about the Brix reading for a totally dry (no sugar) wine. It was my understanding from before that it is LESS than 0.0 ... say -1.0 or -1.5 because of the influence of the alcohol on the density. So a 0.5Brix reading means there is still some sugar present equivalent to 1.5 to 2.0Brix which I should want to reduce. Again please let me know if I'm off base with that. Thanks again guys.

 

[RPh_Guy]

Have you verified the hydrometer calibration with pure water?

What was the original gravity?
What yeast did you pitch?

 

[noofie2]

1. The hydrometer reads +0.2 Brix with pure water at 70F
2. The original Brix was 24.5 for both the CS and the PN at 66F
3. D254 yeast for the CS and Assmanshaussen for the PN

Ran out of time tonight but plan on pressing tomorrow.

 

[madscientist451]

I think you are worrying a little too much. I've been making wine for 15+ years and never had a wine fermentation get "stuck". It probably just needs some more time. The Assmanshaussen yeast is known as being somewhat slow.
If the wine started at 24.5 and is now at .5 brix, I'd call it done.
I like to press red wine before its all the way done, and then the Co2 released when it ferments some more will fill up the head space in the carboy. So go ahead and press the wine, leave it alone and observe if you have any airlock activity. After 3-4 days check your gravity if you want to and you can add sulfites if that's your preference. I usually don't add any sulfites until the first racking, but I'm a pretty lazy winemaker/brewer and skip a lot of steps that others think are necessary.

 

[noofie2]

Thankyou.

 

[noofie2]

Both wines are now pressed and in carboys. No bubbling at all. They taste very dry so I think they are done even though they measured 0.5Brix before pressing.