Why equipment to buy next? Help please!

[Jordancwilk]

I need some help deciding what will be the next 'big' purchase for my home brewing equipment. So far, I have been an extract brewer making 5 gallon batches on my stovetop, then fermenting in my basement. I've been able to make some pretty great beers so far, and have learned a lot from sticking to a relatively simple process of making beer.

Now I'm ready to invest a few hundred dollars more and slowly start to refine my craft. I'm trying to decide between buying a freezer - along with a heater and dual temperature controller, or making the jump to all grain brewing. Having a controlled spot to ferment would be great for me in my climate and allow me to start some lagers. On the other hand, I can hardly wait to buy a bigger kettle, a burner, and some coolers for all grain brews. I'm am getting tired of spending $30+ for my 5 gallon beers. I realize the all grain route is more expensive, but I would buy in phases and work my way to a burner and larger kettle.

Does anyone have a recommendation for where to invest my money next?

 

[milldoggy]

Temp controlled fermentation was one of the best improvements I made. Find a freezer of CL, get a stc1000 or that new dual stage for 50$.http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2015/0...dual-stage-temp-controller-35-50-shipped.html

 

[Gonefishing]

I second the ferm control idea. Then I'd keg, and then I'd do AG. Don't rush that step, learn all you can first.

 

[Hunky]

Have fun with this. But answers would depend a lot on what you have and what direction you want to go. For instance, is the basement cool enough for fermentation temps or do you still need to cool? To save money, some guys just freeze plastic bottles of water and throw in a water bath. I found a nice chest freezer for $200 and have turned it into a kegerator/fermentor. THink I now need to dedicate it to kegerator and get some other kind of fermenter chamber to accommodate 10 gallon and larger vessels. Got me a sanke keg fermenter now and don't want to lift it over a chest freezer, nor would it fit mine.

To heat the fermenter, I use a reptile heater which is same as but cheaper than homebrew models. I use an STC-1000 (~$12 give or take) for a temp controller.. but for more specific recommendations people might want to know how handy you - are you comfortable wiring, soldering, diy stuff? Or do you feel better buying off the shelf? (I have since upgraded to an arduino with raspberrypi and software from the diy brewpi thread if you want to geek out for around $50 or so - good fermentation profiles and graphs).

I would recommend always getting stuff to grow into if you can - for instance 10 gallon batches are pretty accessible. Get around a 15 gallon pot for boilover prevention if heading that way. All kinds of opinions on burners. I upgraded to electric (you can get cheaper kettles that way - no need for fancy laminated bottom kettles and more efficient since propane is exorbitant where I live) so can brew in basement but that is more than a couple hundred for controls. All kinds of advice for mash tuns - the round coolers are popular but I went with a large rectangular for 10 gallon batches (not to say bigger round ones don't work). Would like to go stainless mash tun and get away from adding plastic to my diet. Some good threads on turning cheaper stainless pots into mash tuns. But definitely diy types of work.

I got real lucky and won a giveaway gift certificate from brewershardware.com for $250. That started me on the road of no return. Bought a chugger pump, some silicone 1/2" tubing, a bunch of quick disconnects and various fittings. Things to consider - at least the tubing and disconnects - makes life pretty easy. The pump adds complexity.

There's a thread on diy soldering stainless if you are inclined that can save a bunch of money. You would have to invest in a good step drill, maybe some cobalt small drill bits, some good solder and flux and maybe come up with a flare type tool, but that could save some money. Do some reading, if that interests you.

Anyway, maybe this will stimulate some more discussion for you. cheers, JD

 

[two_one_seven]

Both are great. I personally don't think there is a wrong choice. Follow your fancy and have fun.

 

[kh54s10]

Fermentation control AND all grain at the same time. Try out BIAB.

 

[Jordancwilk]

My basement stays around 68 F during warmer months and drops to around 60 in colder months. Seems to be working ok with ales, but I have not had the opportunity to do a lager yet. I would love to be able to dial in my temps and get EXACTLY what the yeast needs.

 

[RobbyComstock]

I went from 5 gallon extract to 10 gallon all grain. I had a cooler for my mach tun and I had to buy a new pot. So that was the only major investment. I have not brewed a lager so I was not worried about getting my fermentation temps down and here in CO my basement stays right about 68 degrees, so perfect for fermentation.

So it is a tough choice when you are on a budget, but you will make the right decision.

 

[Hunky]

If you don't already, you might also want to follow this page:
http://www.homebrewfinds.com/

 

[Cider123]

Lots of great advice here. It's based on preference and I can only give you mine as a reference.

Come over to the world of BIAB We operate for cheap and use a very effective method. My major needs for BIAB would be:
15 gallon pot with a thick 3 ply bottom (prevents scorching) for 5 gallon batches
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ATSMJY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
a Bayou propane burner like the ones usually used for turkey frying
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009JXYQ4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
a large mesh bag for mashing. Wilserbrewer here sells a great bag. Morebeer sells them for 6 bucks
a good digital thermometer
a wort chiller

I brew seasonally, which is not completely accurate but works for me. Living in Maine, I have a cellar that maintains a consistent temp for several months before changing with the season. I'll maintain 60-63F throughout the summer and that is great for my ales. I move the fermenter bucket wherever I need it. During peak fermentation I move it to the back of the cellar where it is 60F. When active fermentation is underway, the heat generated brings me up to around 64F. As fermentation slows, I'll move the fermenter to an area where it is a steady 63F and let it sit for a few weeks. If I had room for a freezer, I'd get one for fermenting, but this has worked well for many years.

Kegging has been a lot of fun for me.

 

[Jordancwilk]

Thanks for all the help and tips everyone. Can someone explain briefly exactly what BIAB is and how it differs compared to extract or all grain?

 

[Beernik]

BIAB is a form of all grain. It's single vessel brewing.

You have a large net bag. You put the grain in the bag. You put the bag in a kettle with warm mash water. After the mash is complete, you pull the bag and boil the wort.

As equipment goes:
1. Pick up a used freezer, heat source, desk fan, and build a STC controller.
2. Legally aquire a keg and convert it to a keggle.
3. Buy a keggle sized bag for BIAB.
4. Buy a decent thermometer.
5. Buy a 55,000 BTU Bayou burner.
6. If you don't already have one, buy a siphon for racking out of the keggle to your fermenting bucket.

With all that, you can do 5 - 10 gallon brews and it will probably cost less than $350. Well, you might top $350 if you have to buy an angle grinder.

EDIT: Oh yeah, a wort chiller is a good idea for +5 gallon full boils. Or you can "no chill" it in your freezer overnight. Building your own wort chiller is really easy and runs about $50.

 

[aprichman]

If you buy a new freezer make sure to see if your local power company is offering any rebates for energy efficient appliances. I got a $35 rebate from my power company when I bought my CF a couple of weeks ago. This brought the effective price to $110 - which is actually cheaper than a lot of used CFs I saw on Craigslist.

 

[aprichman]

Also just wanted to chime in that a fermentation chamber is worth it just for the reduced stress levels on MYSELF (and probably the yeast too ). During active fermentation, it was stressful when I had to spend 5+ hours away from my swamp cooler setup. On top of that it was awful having to wake up in the middle of the night to check temperatures.

Even when I was incredibly vigilant my beers still had around 5-6F fluctuations at some point in their lives, and those were the batches I was "on top of" keeping between 62-66F the whole time. This time I just set my STC-1000 to 64F and had temps range from 62.5-65F during active fermentation. The core temperature was probably even more stable since I have an insulated probe measuring the glass wall of my carboy.

With that said, you can't go wrong with either upgrade. I went all grain before building my fermentation chamber and I don't regret it. Not only did it make brewing MUCH cheaper but it is also a lot more fun and I noticed the quality of my beer improved. It's more work but I really enjoy the process and extract doesn't hold up to the taste of freshly made wort from grain IMO.

 

[ricshayne]

Fermentation Temp control is the single most important thing you can do to improve your beer. You can get ferm control and All grain at once if you get something like this:
http://www.cool-brewing.com

its cheap and really helps.

 

[Natdavis777]

I would go the temp control route and get that out of the way. You can then dial in your fermentation schedules while saving up for the next big purchase, whether it being a jump to AG or whatever.

 

[Yesfan]

Everybody's different but I would probably go:

1) freezer/temp controller
2) burner/bigger kettle/BIAB bag for AG/chiller
3) Kegging


I love my keezer, but the biggest bang for me has been my temp controlled freezer and the ability to do full volume boils.

 

[brewcat]

Fermentation temp control would be the way I'd go. I need to do the same. Are you doing full boils? You could always start doing that with extract. So getting a chiller and fermentation control at the same time.

 

[unionrdr]

I'd go with ferment temp control first. But if you're also doing partial boils, then partial boil, partial mash brew in a bag will work really well. BIAB doesn't have to be AG, it can be PM or E/SG as well. I do pb/pm biab in the same SS 5 gallon kettle I started with. A 5 gallon kettle can take, as I've found thus far, 8.6lbs of crushed grains & some 2 1/2 gallons of water for the mash. Then, in a 2nd kettle, heat sparge water, about 1 1/2 gallons. I drain the grain bag after the mash, then stretch the nylon bag over the lip of the smaller sparge kettle so I can stir it again, known as dunk or batch sparge. This helps increase efficiency. Anyway, sparge 10 minutes @ 168F. Drain & add sparge water to main kettle of mash wort for a boil volume of about 3 1/2 gallons. I put a couple gallons of the spring water I brew with in the fridge a day or two before brew day to top off with. Ice bath the wort kettle down to 75F or so, then strain into fermenter. The fine mesh strainer also helps aerate the wort. Top off to recipe volume with the chilled water, this should get it down to about 65F very quickly, producing some cold break.

 

[Jordancwilk]

As usual, thanks for all the help here. I think I'll pursue a chest freezer, heat source, and temp controller next. After that I've got my eye on a burner and larger kettle to allow for some full volume boils. Thanks for the education on BIAB - this sounds like a great option at least until I take the plunge into an all grain setup.

 

[MattyIce]

I use a chest freezer for ferm. It works great, BUT I will be switching it out for a fridge when I find a deal. Quite a bit of moisture forms inside the freezer when operating at ferm temps. Not a real big deal, but seems like a bad idea after I make the effort to keep everything else sanitary.

 

[Brew_G]

As usual, thanks for all the help here. I think I'll pursue a chest freezer, heat source, and temp controller next. After that I've got my eye on a burner and larger kettle to allow for some full volume boils. Thanks for the education on BIAB - this sounds like a great option at least until I take the plunge into an all grain setup.

Just for clarification...

BIAB *is* all grain. It's just a different way of doing it in comparison to the two- or three-vessel method.

 

[Cider123]

Thanks for the education on BIAB - this sounds like a great option at least until I take the plunge into an all grain setup.

BIAB is an all grain setup in itself. I'm sure there are folks that consider it a temporary stage before moving on to a traditional 3 tier set up. But I have been at BIAB for several years and don't see the need or want to ever switch.

For more detailed info on BIAB, go over to BIABrewer.info. A great site on the subject and also a place to download the free BIABacus which is a great spreadsheet for determining the amounts of ingredients for your recipes.

Have fun!

 

[unionrdr]

BIAB can be AG but doesn't have to be. I do partial boil, partial mash biab & it's fine. It originally referred to AG, but it's expanded since...

 

[kh54s10]

BIAB can be AG but doesn't have to be. I do partial boil, partial mash biab & it's fine. It originally referred to AG, but it's expanded since...

Not to be a stickler but. BIAB is all grain. Partial boil would be a high gravity all grain brew requiring added water to get to desired volume.
Partial mash is it's own category between extract and all grain. Needing some base grains and specialty grains and extract.
Then there prehopped extract that doesn't even require a boil.
All extract with hops requiring a boil.
Extract with specialty grains that need hops and boil.
Then there are different ways to use a mash tun and boil kettle for all grain.

Just saying you can't lump all BIAB processes into an all grain category, if it uses extract to get to OG it is not truly all grain.

This is what I really enjoy with this hobby. There are so many ways to achieve the final product. Exploring these is one of the attractions. I have done extract with specialty grains, Partial mash, BIAB, and traditional 3 vessel all grain.

Actually BIAB is my least favorite of these. I don't like messing with the heavy, hot, sticky, messy bag full of spent grain.

 

[MattyIce]

Actually BIAB is my least favorite of these. I don't like messing with the heavy, hot, sticky, messy bag full of spent grain.

The bag does suck BUT I would rather wrestle it than my coolers set up as HLT and MT

 

[kh54s10]

The bag does suck BUT I would rather wrestle it than my coolers set up as HLT and MT

My HLT is a 10 gallon pot on a burner. Top of a 3 tier stand. It stays in place and I fill it with plumbing in place so I rarely move it. I do have a set up on my back porch that stays in place all the time.

The MT is a 10 gallon water cooler and when the grain is drained weighs less than a BIAB bag. And far easier to clean. I dump the spent grain in the compost pile then rinse out with a hose.

 

[unionrdr]

What I'm basically saying is the basic biab process can be used for AG, PM & steeping. It works equally well in the same kettle for the various brewing styles requiring a bag. That's why I came up with more descriptors like E/SG or PB/PM BIAB. The only difference is the amount of grains used, adding extract, etc.

 

[hifidelity]

Definitely go the fermentation temperature control route. It's definitely the lowest hanging fruit when you're looking to make awesome beer.

 

[Jordancwilk]

Definitely go the fermentation temperature control route. It's definitely the lowest hanging fruit when you're looking to make awesome beer.

This is exactly my thought process over the past few days when I've been weighing my options. Fermentation temp seems like such a crucial and basic fundamental that can be one of the easiest steps to control.

I've also been watching DIY videos on how to wire a STC 1000 and I think I'm sold.

 

[aprichman]

This is exactly my thought process over the past few days when I've been weighing my options. Fermentation temp seems like such a crucial and basic fundamental that can be one of the easiest steps to control.

I've also been watching DIY videos on how to wire a STC 1000 and I think I'm sold.

It's super easy, you won't regret it. Although I must say, if I had to do it over again I'd seriously consider doing a BrewPi setup.