superfknmario said:You should bring the temperature down as fast as possible. I believe that letting it cool on it's own can leave it prone to infection.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong
Can anyone help me? I'm brewing on weds so I'd love to hear some people's opinions before.I'm making both kits this week. I want to increase the IBUs of the honey ale a bit. My favorite beers are moderately hopped pale ales like Sierra Nevada pale ale and Bells Two Hearted. The kit ships with 2 oz of fuggles and Kent goldings hops. Could I add 2 oz of each instead of the 1.5 in the recipe? How much hoppier will that make it?
From above, it looks like the fuggles doesn't add much bitterness, but what about boiling them for longer?
Or what about boiling the goldings for 60 mins?
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Thanks for the info. Any particular reason you switched from the fuggle hops in the recipe to challenger hops?
I plan on bottling in a week or two.
Anyway, I was just curious if anyone has any pics of the finished product?
rifraf said:I'd just like to pop in and say how great it is to see all the people in here saying it was their first batch. Like a lot of people said early on, it was likely that this exposure to homebrewing was going to bring a lot of people to the hobby.
Welcome everyone!
That said, I just realized an issue that I didn't have in my first batch: I forgot to add a tsp of Irish Moss. I'm aware of what it does, but I don't know how it will affect the overall outcome of my beer after bottling? Will it just be a bit more murky when I pour it into my glass?
JDPN said:Hello. I don't know about the moss, sorry! I was hoping you might be able to help a newcomer out though since you've made this recipe before
I'm in the process of fermentation right now but am concerned that the recipe didn't list any gravity readings. I'm pretty new to brewing and have never done so without these guidelines. What was the gravity you bottled at? I followed other posters' advice about not needing to transfer into a second fermentation, so I'm now about 15 days out. I'm also concerned that we stopped seeing bubbles on the airlock within about 48 hours after the brew (they started about 20 hours after sealing the fermenter, but then stopped). Did this happen with yours as well? Thank you!!
I'm in the process of fermentation right now but am concerned that the recipe didn't list any gravity readings. I'm pretty new to brewing and have never done so without these guidelines. What was the gravity you bottled at?
JDPN, in general it helps to post your recipe when asking specific questions, but I'll assume you followed the Ale to the Chief recipe posted here, http://www.whitehouse.gov/blog/2012/09/01/ale-chief-white-house-beer-recipe.
Calculating the OG is pretty straightforward with extact recipes, you multiply the amount of gravity points per pound by the number of pounds of extract used. LME contributes about 36 gravity points per pound, DME about 40 points per pound, (source: http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter3-4.html). Honey is about 40 points per pound.
The math: (36 x 6.6) + (40 x 1) + (40 x 1 ) = about 318 points, divided by 5 gallons = 64 points per gallon, or 1.064.
Now to figure out your estimated FG, the yeast in the recipe is Danstar Windsor dry ale yeast which has an attenuation of about 75% (source: http://www.williamsbrewing.com/WINDSOR-ALE-DRY-YEAST-P829.aspx).
FG = (1-Yeast attenuation) x OG | .25 x 64 = 16, or about 1.016. So, if you FG is stable and close to 1.016, you're good to go!
I hope this helps. I'd recommend reading the forum stickies, or the first few chapters of howtobrew.com for more info about the basics of brewing.![]()
fenners said:Brewed this about 11 days ago... I'd intended to get it down a couple of weeks earlier but life got in the way. Is 11 days too soon to keg it tonight ahead of the election night?![]()