When to dry hop?

[shibbypwn]

I made a black IIPA, which I intend to dry hop. It's been in the fermenter for almost two weeks now. I'm trying to figure out when the ideal time to dry hop is.

Obviously, freshness of hop aroma and flavor is a priority for me- so here's my reasoning- correct me if I'm wrong

Dry hop too early and the peak aroma and flavor will be lost because the beer is still green.
Dry hop too late and the bitterness/flavor/aroma from the boil will start to fade.

So it seems like there is an ideal window for IPA's where you can have it all- I just don't know what that is.

This is my third batch, and my first dry hop. I'm using citra, centennial, and Columbus.

 

[BendBrewer]

I have found that using too many variety of hops as a dry hops lend to a muddyish hop flavor. It's just too, well confusing I guess. Just my thoughts. When I dry hop, I like to get the sensation of "Ah...Cascades.......God I love Cascades!" Not, "What hops are those?" but to each his own.

I like to ferment those hoppy ales for 3 weeks then dry hop for another week and keg or keg after 3 weeks and dry hop the keg.

 

[unionrdr]

I found from here & experience that it's best to dry hop when FG has been reached,& the brew has settled out to a slight haze. Then put'em in hop sacks for 7-10 days...even two weeks since you're doing an IPA. Just make sure the flavors produced by the hops you're using go well together. That's when it's "brewer's art",imo.

 

[shibbypwn]

I was trying to imitate the hop bill from Brew Dog's hardcore IPA- but simcoe's out for the season, so I subbed citra.

 

[BendBrewer]

I was trying to imitate the hop bill from Brew Dog's hardcore IPA- but simcoe's out for the season, so I subbed citra.

Yeah again, to each his own. People are out of Simcoe huh? Bummer.

www.homesuds.com

I bet those guys will ship you some.

 

[Scut_Monkey]

Most people, including me, would recommend racking to a secondary or keg after primary is complete prior to dry hopping. This allows you to get the beer away from the majority of the trub and yeast that has floculated out. This helps to prevent the oils from the dry hop from sticking to these and never making it into the finished beer.

I typically am able to rack from the primary after 1 week but I often let it sit for 2 just out of laziness or lack of time. At that point it is in a keg. I then dry hop for 1 week. I typically dry hop in a large paint strainer so that when I am done I can easily remove the hops and there is no need to push the beer to a clean keg. If it is a very very large dry hop bill (IIPA) I will let the hops go free and transfer to another keg when it's done.

 

[unionrdr]

Most people, including me, would recommend racking to a secondary or keg after primary is complete prior to dry hopping. This allows you to get the beer away from the majority of the trub and yeast that has floculated out. This helps to prevent the oils from the dry hop from sticking to these and never making it into the finished beer.

I typically am able to rack from the primary after 1 week but I often let it sit for 2 just out of laziness or lack of time. At that point it is in a keg. I then dry hop for 1 week. I typically dry hop in a large paint strainer so that when I am done I can easily remove the hops and there is no need to push the beer to a clean keg. If it is a very very large dry hop bill (IIPA) I will let the hops go free and transfer to another keg when it's done.

that's not totally correct. It's the yeast still in suspension that we need to worry about. The hop oils stick to the cells still in suspension,so that when they settle out,the hop oil coating goes down as well. The settled ones don't have much effect on this. Water chemistry does,however. Higher than normal levels of sulfites can give more bittering effect form my studies thus far. My levels are rather low,even with the natural spring water.
Anyway,I let the brew reach FG & clean up to a slight haze,then dry hop. Less chance to settle that way,but more than 7 days would be better for sure with this water profile.

 

[Scut_Monkey]

that's not totally correct. It's the yeast still in suspension that we need to worry about. The hop oils stick to the cells still in suspension,so that when they settle out,the hop oil coating goes down as well. The settled ones don't have much effect on this. Water chemistry does,however. Higher than normal levels of sulfites can give more bittering effect form my studies thus far. My levels are rather low,even with the natural spring water.
Anyway,I let the brew reach FG & clean up to a slight haze,then dry hop. Less chance to settle that way,but more than 7 days would be better for sure with this water profile.

I never said it was only the flocculated yeast that we need to worry about. It would be great to remove the suspended yeast as well but this requires extra time or cold crashing. The whole idea behind racking is to get the beer off as much yeast and trub as possible as they will indeed absorb hop oils. I have never heard that suspended yeast absorb more hop oils although this may be true. Regardless, I am suggesting only racking to the secondary/bright tank when most all the yeast has flocculated out. This seems to be the same time you add your dry hop as well.

If the beer is still cloudy with yeast after racking you can cold crash it which I do at times. Having it in a keg makes this much easier. The other added benefit of racking off the trub/yeast is to prevent the brewer from kicking up this material when adding or removing a dry hop bag which is beneficial for my approach.

 

[Spartan1979]

I like dry hopping in the keg. All that aroma stays in the keg instead of escaping out the air lock.

 

[hatfieldenator]

I usually let primary fermentation go to completion (usually 7-10 days), then rack to a secondary. I then dry hop in mesh bags in the secondary for another 7-10 days. Then, if I'm kegging, I cold crash it to get as clear of a beer as possible. Then I keg. If I'm bottle conditioning I just go right to the bottles without a cold crash.

I've never tried dry hopping in the keg before, but that sounds like a good idea too. I worry that the bag of hops could get caught at the bottom of the keg though and clog up the pick up tube? Has anyone ever had this issue? Just curious.

 

[samc]

I've never tried dry hopping in the keg before, but that sounds like a good idea too. I worry that the bag of hops could get caught at the bottom of the keg though and clog up the pick up tube? Has anyone ever had this issue? Just curious.

nylon fishing line & a cable tie to the underside of the lid @ the pressure valve. easy to fish the bag out and keep it from sinking all the way to the bottom.

 

[Spartan1979]

I've never tried dry hopping in the keg before, but that sounds like a good idea too. I worry that the bag of hops could get caught at the bottom of the keg though and clog up the pick up tube? Has anyone ever had this issue? Just curious.

I haven't had that problem, but I usually remove the bag after 7-10 days. I just fish it out with a long handled SS spoon. But what the worst that would happen if it did clog up the pick up tube? You remove the post, pull up the tube and free the bag.