When is "full"

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depends on temp and pressure applied. I used to do quick carb beer in 2-liter bottles. fill with beer squeeze out head space and fill with co2. refrigerate until cold. once cold would squeeze out head space again and hit it with 30-35psi until bottle is rock hard shake it some. put back in the fridge to acclimate.

the bottle will soften and hit it again with 30-35 psi. at this point beer was plenty carbed up.

I used a two piece chrome valve stem from auto parts and drilled a hole in bottle cap, rigged up a hose for said valve stem from regulator.

this is not water and not sure what type of bottle you are using.

but this process works and predecessor to soda stream. also great instead of filling glass growlers that loose a bit of carbonation. although the presentation is less appealing.
 
thanx for reply. I've been using the AARKE carbonator in the past wth a valve/hose arrangement to refill the sodastream cylinders with liquid CO2 from a 20# tank. Then the cylinders go into the carbonator. I've found that the set pressure is too low for my taste(sorry;)), and lots of gas leakage occurs, not to mention the back and forth hassle, just to get a nice CO2 fill in their proprietary bottles. So I have just now switched to a TapRite regulator and a ball-cock cap, and it seems to be working OK after a few kinks and a few bottles.
Now then, After I'm all connected up with a 2 liter soda bottle filled with boiled,cooled , then very chilled (34º) Reverse Osmosis H2O, and I purge the air head by squeezing the bottle, then start the CO2 fill. All good so far. As it is filling I'm shaking the bottle (no leaks!!!), bubbles flowing - how do I know when to shut the fill off, that is, when am I saturated- practically speaking. Dose the CO2 flow cease when the bottle pressure equals the set regulator pressure, or what. That is where my confusion lies.
Also, after I know that, would my saturation or saturation time or level be improved by putting a diffusion stone at the end of my fill tube?
Thanks in advance for help for this newbie.
 
Thanks OleBrewing. for your prompt reply. What I am looking for is to saturate the H2O as completely as possible- practically speaking. I am assuming from your reply that 'normalizing' means the CO2 gas being injected, combines/integrates with the water until the water is ["fully"] saturated. AND, the evidence of this is that the gas stops flowing (no more bubbles) ???? , and that the [isolated]-bottle pressure has become the same as the regulator set pressure. The proof of the "full" saturation could additionally be 'proven' by weighing the bottle and finding that it was heavier than pre-injection weight by, say, 4 grams per liter. were I to go to that length. Thanks again for your replie and advice. Regards to all.
 
[...] with a 2 liter soda bottle filled with boiled,cooled , then very chilled (34º) Reverse Osmosis H2O [...]
Where do you get your RO water?
And why are you boiling and then cooling it? RO water should be perfectly potable without doing that. You can carbonate it as is, while it's cooling to 32-34°C.

The proof of the "full" saturation could additionally be 'proven' by weighing the bottle and finding that it was heavier than pre-injection weight by, say, 4 grams per liter. were I to go to that length.
That's not an easy way for doing at home. Even in a lab that method would be a challenge.

Carbonation levels depend on the temp of the liquid (water) and pressure of the gas, when it has stabilized (no more CO2 being absorbed). There are tables for that.
 
The best way I've found to carbonate a 2 l PET bottle is a ball lock screw top plastic cap. I chill the bottle and pressurize it to 20 psi. Of course the pressure drops as the CO2 dissolves, but you can hit it with more pressure at any time. They cost about $3 each on Amazon.
 
Where do you get your RO water?
And why are you boiling and then cooling it? RO water should be perfectly potable without doing that. You can carbonate it as is, while it's cooling to 32-34°C.


That's not an easy way for doing at home. Even in a lab that method would be a challenge.

Carbonation levels depend on the temp of the liquid (water) and pressure of the gas, when it has stabilized (no more CO2 being absorbed). There are tables for that.
Thanx for comment. We have a R/O system for our drinking water, well and good. I'm bringing it just to boiling point first, in order to release the already absorbed gases (air, hydrogen??, etc) that are in the water naturally to begin with. The release of those gases then allows for greater/more complete subsequent saturation of the CO2. I've definitely noticed a greater amount of infused CO2 after doing so.
I then cool the water initially, (so as not to weaken the 2L Coke bottle), and then refrigerate it as cold as possible, so that it will subsequently absorb the most CO2 in one go-around. I can get it easily down to the 32º-34º range this way. which allows for maximum saturation while infusing the CO2.
As I've said, in any case, when actually in the carbonating process, HOW do I know and WHEN, that the process is finished??? The gas is flowing, bubbles are there, I'm shaking the bottle. How do I know when to stop and shutoff the gas flow??. And be reasonably confident that it is as fully saturated as it will get?? Thanks for your help.
The best way I've found to carbonate a 2 l PET bottle is a ball lock screw top plastic cap. I chill the bottle and pressurize it to 20 psi. Of course the pressure drops as the CO2 dissolves, but you can hit it with more pressure at any time. They cost about $3 each on Amazon.
Thanx for your comment as well. I have one of those and have just started using it in my 'new' carbonating system with the regulator. I chill the bottle as cold as possible, down to the 32º-34º range. I've been advised to use pressures in the 35-50 psi range while carbonating. I just don't know when to stop the actual carbonating process, and shut off the gas flow. What is the signal that it is done?????? Cheers, and happy M Day.
 
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