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When did you stop extract brewing?

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My cousin's lived there for a long time. They were probably my first relatives who would try local craft beer. We would all go to their cabin in Mio and they picked up Bad Frog Beer.
 
I was just hoping I could get my cousins to mail me some. One of my favorite beers in CT had to change due to controversy. Gandhi-Bot had to change to G-Bot, but it went away for a long time.
 
Bad Frog still sells t-shirts and such, but the actual beer caused so much controversy that the company couldn't afford to fight all the lawsuits that several states levied against them for "bad taste" and "vulgarity". BAD FROG <----webpage here.
 
I brewed extract for almost a full year before switching to AG. It really helps you improve your skill and process by not throwing everything at you at once. I am thankful I was able to focus on the cold side and really understand fermentation before jumping into milling grain, mash schedules, pH, and water adjustments.

There's nothing wrong with extract brewing so don't let the strong opinions push into AG too soon. Enjoy the shorter brew days and the learning process. Jumping in feet first into all aspects of brewing robs you of the learning experience imo. RDWAHAHB! :thumbsup:
 
If you really want to brew all grain without so much expense, just do it like the Egyptians did back in the day.
Basket of grain left out overnight, either a small shower or a heavy dew, some wild yeasts and not so presto but certainly changeo, you gots a slightly alcoholic beverage.
And all it took was a basket and some grain.
Easy Peasy!
 
I now do five gallon full-volume-boil all-grain batches on my kitchen stove. For stronger beers I limit it to three gallons to make everything possible. Along the way I did some mostly-grain most-of-the-volume batches. I still do an occasional all-extract or partial mash, depending on the beer and my mood.

I got some great help from people here in this thread, where you can also read a bit about how I made it work.
 
I'm still new to this Homebrewing thing. Starter kit came with LME and so I purchased more because that's what I learned with. So now I have a small inventory of LME.

In order to switch to BIAB/all grain/partial grain, I'd have to upgrade to more than just a kettle on my kitchen stove.

I currently don't have a ton of space, no garage, not a great basement, yadda yadda...
I was in the process of buying a house with a dope garage used for motorcycle restoration. That's on hold now.
Thanks, Corona!

Anyhow... When should I begin to upgrade? How long am I able to brew with LME (and maybe steeping grains) before I'm an old loser?

Thanks.

I am still fairly new, but have zero plans to stop....I don't want this to become WORK.....extracts is nice and simple.....have so far purchased pre-packaged kits from a couple on on-line places and the closest (60 miles, I live in the middle of nowhere) homebrew shop. I use dry yeast as well, I want to keep it simple and not super time consuming.....I will be starting to tweak the ingredients a bit as I am learning what I like and what I REALLY like (hard not to like beer).

YMMV

Lon
 
Extract gets such a bad rap. I had a lot of fun with kits and building my own recipes using extract, just as I do with all grain.

I still make an amber ale and an English bitter with extract methods though. I cannot replicate the same success with all grain on those two recipes. *shrug*
 
I would like to do only all grain batches but with the wife working from home now and have two kids under 5 my time is limited through the day. With warmer weather coming I hope to be able to brew once the kids go to bed. Also considering getting a electric system at some point that's abit more automated.
 
I brewed 5.5 gallons of pilsner LME last night using Centennial, Newport and Northern Brewer. It smells good.
Once I can afford a bigger setup or have more space, I'll probably switch to BIAB.
 
Extract gets such a bad rap.

It can be interesting watching the words and phrases people use to describe their hobby: "rabbit hole", ".... never looked back", " ... the next level",

Home brewing could also be described as cooking (well known approaches to adding dry sugars or syrups to hot water, ...).

Or maybe home brewing is just a big bag of ingredients and techniques - and one gets to chose which ones help them make enjoyable beer.
 
Been brewing for 3 years extract. I don't plan on switching as I also have other hobbies and responsibilities and just don't feel like adding another step... another vessel and such. I get the pure thinking and totally respect it. It's in all hobbies. I can only compare my beers to brewery beers and over all with the better equipment I have now and temperature control, I'm quite satisfied. Friends I know who do AG tend to not brew as often or do it in clubs. I do agree the ability to create from scratch is fascinating with the control you have. The kits still come with steeping grains for color and flavor and it works quite well. You can also make your own recipes using the basic DME's and steeping grains but I'm sure avid AG brewers look at it as incomplete some way. To each his own. At the same time I also buy kegs from local breweries to keep up with the habit LOL
20200515_190701[1].jpg
 
I started out with extract kits, then to mini mash to BIAB to all grain.
Now i mostly brew all grain, but will throw a extract in, if i dont have time for a full brew day.
so i would say what ever works for you.
 
OK gang, Been reading and learning since 2011. About my second post to this forum.
Have brewed 261 Extract beers. Some were mini micro mash, 90% were extract. Most of my recipes are based on Mr Beer HME as a base with added DME/LME, Steep grains and hops. About 10% are DIY recipes and 5g recipes from all the noted on line LBHS. I split the 5g batches into 2- 2.5 LBK, different yeast added to each and then tinker with dry hopping. In 9 years I had 2 yes two really bad infected brews - one blew up the old tap-a-draft keg the other was in bottles which was so bad after 2 months I dumped it.

I have made some fair, OK and many really great beers.. I will never go AG. period. what others have said.
I make beer I really like and drink it all. I have no one else in family or around me that drinks much beer except the BMC crowd, their loss
I brew all the above - ales lagers wheat dark all ..
I have 5 LBK 3 going most of the time. 3 fridges with temp controllers. One for lagers two for ales and conditioning.
Bottle most. Have 2 Brewbox 2.5g that are second gen and working great. My beerboxes are modified with pressure gauges I can vent to keep pressure in spec. I also have 2 -1 gal growlers -I do keg conditioning like in the beerbox

I have a large coffee pot 2gal I use for the micro mashes - my 'coffee pot masher" works great. I take refactor reading and iodine tests to proof the mash. Most mashes have been 2.5# max for a 2.5 g batch.. added to LME/DME/MRB.. Mashing is way too much time and work for me. But I do it for the experience - why I will never go AG.. plus the cost of doing 5g batches I would have to make major investments in equipment
I have my brewing process dialed in.
I could go into more specifics --
I can say my beer hobby for the past 9 years has been an enjoyable experience
 
One step at a time my friend

Start with BIAB and go from there
I made the switch from Extract to All Grain because I had the money to do so
So..... YMMV
 
I am nearly seventy years old, hence my reaction to the “old fool” remark. Back in the day, hauling sacks of corn up to a secret place to make “homebrew” had an entirely different meaning.
It was hard work and there was always the danger of law enforcement interrupting an otherwise enjoyable weekend.
My point is that no one should look down their nose at any one else simply for the way they brew.
We are ALL brewers. Whether it’s extract, biab, all grain or leave the grain in a basket outside overnight DOES NOT MATTER.
If it matters so much to anyone, then it’s that persons problem, not mine.

And no, my family NEVER used a radiator out of a junk yard!
 
one more thing i will add, temp control for fermentations and proper yeast pitching is what I wish i invested in before investing in all grain equipment. temp control improved my beer a lot. there's a lot of of extract brewers that can make really great beers. so dont get hung up on the I have to do all grain;)
cheers
 
ops my error looks like I posted 17 times to the forum since 2012. Now 18
BTY I am tapping on 79 years old.. use to make wine in the 80s that was fun but I really like my beer brewing. Have not made corn spirits.. and I am in TN :)
Read all the assorted books by the many experts and many brewing forums ..I almost never post .
Invested in the gear needed to brew the small 2.5g batch
The use of a super sanitizing process and temp control insures most recipes come out great.
I only use the one-step or sani solutions for one session. Costs a bit more.

I use only dry yeast. Have tried yeast re-use, yes it worked but too much effort, prefer to try new yeasts with each batch.
I have never made the exact same recipe. I always try something different -- added steep grain, hops and yeast. I keep a verbose log of each brew Qbrew is my goto recipe program with a DIY modified database.

Batch prime with a dedicated LBK to bottles or 'keg' .
I did start a blog about my experience but left it un finished - many others out there.

Have a smoked micro mash in the bottle on Fri now the long wait to let it age- 3 to 4 weeks.
Next up an IPA based on MRB Long Play IPA
 
I stopped using extract about 6 batches into it. It was just a matter of principal for me. The manufacturer makes a batch of wort from grain and then removes most of the water so they can ship it and sell it to you. Then you put the water back. It's not exactly the same but it seems a lot like instant iced tea mix. I know some people like the tea they get from that product but I'm more of a brew your own type.
 
I started brewing in 2006. My uncle and mother both created the monster my hobby is today. I started with extract, and after the wife complained enough about all my brew equipment in the kitchen, I decided to brew in the garage. I had joined a brew club in 2006 as well, and I'd seen a couple gravity systems in the club. I built my three tier, gravity system based on those ideas towards the end of 2009. I also started growing five varieties of hops in 2009. My first brew was called Maiden Voyage IPA in January, 2010; first brew on the new system, first all grain brew, and, all of my first year hops. (Which was about 10 ounces for all five plants.)

I still use the same system, though it's been upgraded and modified since.

Brewery 2.0 is in the works. The monster continues to grow.
 
I stopped using extract about 6 batches into it. It was just a matter of principal for me. The manufacturer makes a batch of wort from grain and then removes most of the water so they can ship it and sell it to you. Then you put the water back. It's not exactly the same but it seems a lot like instant iced tea mix. I know some people like the tea they get from that product but I'm more of a brew your own type.

If only water is removed and then added back... I would be interested in what changes occur and what difference the wort from DME and the wort from a mash would be. After that you boil the crap out of it. I do extract mainly because if it got any more complicated as far as more equipment and time, I would probably stop. So I brew, I drink, I do other things. If this was my only hobby I probably would do all grain.
 
After that you boil the crap out of it.

Many people who actively brew with DME/LME limit boil intensity (simmer, not hard boil; link with pictures available upon request) boil times (30 min, 15 min, 1 min) or use a "no boil (but pasteurize)" approach. (links available upon request).

The idea of a 15 Minute Pale Ale goes back to at least 2010 - there is a thread here at Homebrew Talk (link available upon request).

The original Tinseth model for estimating IBUs, based on whole hops, results in very low utilization for shorter boils. There is at least one recent study that suggests that this is not true. (Link available upon request).
 
I brew like it's all grain. Bought kits from various companies and all of the instructions are 1 hr boil. Keg Connection (HomeBrewSupply) I think has the best kits. They are put together per order and very generous with supplies.
 
I'm still new to this Homebrewing thing. Starter kit came with LME and so I purchased more because that's what I learned with. So now I have a small inventory of LME.

In order to switch to BIAB/all grain/partial grain, I'd have to upgrade to more than just a kettle on my kitchen stove.

I currently don't have a ton of space, no garage, not a great basement, yadda yadda...
I was in the process of buying a house with a dope garage used for motorcycle restoration. That's on hold now.
Thanks, Corona!

Anyhow... When should I begin to upgrade? How long am I able to brew with LME (and maybe steeping grains) before I'm an old loser?

Thanks.

First, there’s nothing “wrong” with extract brewing and it doesn’t make anybody a “loser”. Each person has unique circumstances and the object is to make beer as best we can. Not all homebrewers do all grain. You can make great beers with extract and many do. Yes, there are some brewing snobs who look down on extract brewing, but they are usually misinformed and there’s no reason to.

Extract comes in a can in liquid form, but its more like a thick syrup. It also comes in a bag in dry or powder form. I find the dry form easier to measure and work with, especially when using partial packages. Once you open a can, its a sticky mess and I find I pretty much have to use the whole can. Much easier to save half a bag of powder, etc.

Extracts come in extra-light, light, amber, dark, pilsen, and wheat. So you still have lots of creative control and you can go even further by supplementing with specialty grains you steep in a small bag, sort of like making tea. Your homebrew shop can grind these for you so you don’t need a mill or a mash tun.

The advantages of extract brewing are time and convenience. Someone has already done the “work” for you of seperating the sugars from the grain and giving them to you. All you have to do is heat water, mix it in, and go. As you said, less equipment is also needed. Every once in a while I will do an extract brew and think what a joy it is compared to an all-day all-grain brew. I especially like to use all extract to make wheat beer, as it is MUCH easier than mashing wheat. The disadvantages of extract are cost and control. One pound of extract contains the sugars of several pounds of grains. Plus the work factor. So a pound of extract costs more. Plus you don’t have exact control of what grains were used to make the extract. This is not usually a big deal. Think a pound of extract costs more, but your time is worth something too.

The advantages of all grain brewing include complete control - including starting gravity, base malts used, exact percentages of specialty grains, final color, etc. And pound for pound, grain costs less than extract, especially when purchased in 55 lb sacks. The disadvantages of all grain include equipment required and a longer brew day. Some extract brewers can get away with using a smaller pot. When you go all grain, you need a large pot that can hold your full batch volume plus, as you start with more wort and concentrate it some through evaporation. You also need to grind grain and a way to steep or mash it. In olden times we had to make a mash tun, usually out of some kind of cooler with a false bottom that acts as a strainer. Today many people do brew in a bag and you can get away without having a dedicated mash tun. Long as your brewpot is big enough, you pretty much just have to buy a bag. And come up with a way to be able to lift and drain said bag. Each of these methods has advantages and disadvantages I won’t go into.

A brew bag or mash tun also has a finite capacity so I will also use extract to bring a beer up in gravity when I want to make a barleywine or imperial stout. Since my mash tun won’t hold 17 lbs of grain to make 3 gallons of beer. : )

There are also now electric kettle systems you can buy that operate as all in one systems. Some people with small space requirements use these. Robobrew, GrainFather, Anvil Foundry, etc.

The bottom line is there is no “wrong” way to make beer. Do what works for you. You are the one who has to drink it.

If the desire is to go all grain, I’d advise buying the equipment gradually as you can afford it. Start with a large, quality SS brewpot that is larger than the batch you intend to make. I primarily brew 3 gallons at a time so I have a 5 gallon brewpot. For 5 gallon batches, I’d recommend an 8 gallon pot. And a good, long SS brew spoon. Next your second purchase if you don’t already have one should be a wort chiller, as it is one of the pieces of equipment that will give you the most impact the fastest.

Then an 8 gallon pot will be hard to work with on your stovetop (another reason I have chosen to do 3 gallons) so you might want to consider an outdoor cooker or burner. Now you’re banishing yourself to the garage or driveway.

Far as all grain, you can build a mash tun out of a cooler, many plans can be found online. Stainless false bottoms for the round Gott coolers don’t cost that much. Then you need a ball valve for the cooler. They sell kits or you can get one at Home Depot. Or you can go the bag and pulley method. Many here recommend Willser bags. Somebody please correct me if I don’t have that name exactly right.

Then you want a malt mill.

Or if you get an all in one system - you just pay for it and get everything at once except the grain mill. Thats why these have become attractive in recent years.
 
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