what's the downside to partial boil (biab)?

[okawesome]

I've done a few extract batches and am looking at moving on to biab due to simplicity and less need for more equipment. I have a 5 gallon kettle and am accustomed to making 5 gallon batches. Looking into biab I see I either would have to continue to do partial boils or reduce the size to 2.5 or 3 gallons.

Is it all about hop utilization or are there other reasons? I use the app BrewR which seems to account for that and I'd adjust accordingly.

Thanks for any input.

 

[thesemicullen]

It's not all about hop utilization, but that's a major part of it. If you want to, you could calculate how much grain and hops you'd need to use to do a partial boil and add water, but it'd be cheaper just to go out and buy a bigger pot. Also, you'd not be able to go too big because your five-gallon pot would really limit how much grain and water you can use. Buy a bigger pot if you want to do five-gallon batches, or stick with the smaller batches now to see if you like it.

 

[BigSumpin]

You could always buy another 3 - 5 gallon pot and extra bags, use both of your large burners.
Fairly easy to mash-sparge-boil, and not have to add water to the carboy.

 

[fuzzy2133]

Fermenting my first all grain BIAB right now, chose to go with a 2.5 gallon batch. My mind set was its cheaper to dump 2.5 gallons VS a full 5 gallons if I really screw up.

 

[RM-MN]

Fermenting my first all grain BIAB right now, chose to go with a 2.5 gallon batch. My mind set was its cheaper to dump 2.5 gallons VS a full 5 gallons if I really screw up.

You won't need to dump, BIAB is too easy to be able to screw up that badly.

 

[dustys_dad]

Fermenting my first all grain BIAB right now, chose to go with a 2.5 gallon batch. My mind set was its cheaper to dump 2.5 gallons VS a full 5 gallons if I really screw up.

Another way to look at it: brewing 2.5 gallons can mean you get to brew twice as often as brewing 5 gallons since the beer will be gone twice as fast. Twice the brew sessions can lead to dialing in your equipment!

 

[jtratcliff]

You can get an Aluminum kettles pretty cheap. Over the holidays. I scored a 15 Gal tamale steamer for $25.

At Smart n Final a couple of years ago I got a 10 gal for $20.

I easily do 6.5 gal stovetop batches in my 10G kettle. The 15G is too big for stovetop! It just barely clears my microhood.

You could also mash as much as you can in the pot you have, sparge with as much water as you're comfortable having in the boil, and then slowly add the rest of the water as you make room with boil off. You should only have to top off at the end with a small amount.

Easier to get a bigger kettle, though

 

[Jayslay]

This is a question that I am sort of asking as well. I currently brew Partial mash, partial boil, in a 4 gallon brewpot. (Which Is actually the pot of a pressure cooker.. I know, i know...anyways. I just top up with ice cold RO water. I've never had problems with big creamy heads, never had problems with hop utilization. What then, is the result of boiling 4 gallons down to 3 and topping up with water, as opposed to boiling 7 gallons down to 5?

I know people says its ideal, better, best etc, but how much of a change will it make in your beer?

 

[fuzzy2133]

I know people says its ideal, better, best etc, but how much of a change will it make in your beer?

I would like more info too. Only difference I have seen is the 60 min addition is 0.5oz in a full boil (7gal pre boil vol) compared to almost 1.0oz in a partial boil (3gal pre boil vol).

 

[dmashl]

I do partial boil all grain. I use beersmith to help me with recipe formulation, setting up my equipment profile helped. Make 5 gallon batches, Boil 4 gallons and Usually top off 2 gallons in the fermenter.

 

[CUrchin]

There is nothing wrong with topping up per se, but remember you need to boil all the wort you create with grains (as opposed to extract). Otherwise you will most likely end up with DMS (beer that tastes like corn). Extract has already been boiled, so there is no risk of DMS there,hence late extract additions and no boil kits.

 

[CUrchin]

I also imagine you will run into some limits on original gravity. As your wort gets stronger,your efficiency goes down and then you will be diluting from there. I say try it and see how you make out. I do 2.5-3.5 gallon BIAB in a 5 gallon kettle. My limit is really set by how much I can full boil in that size pot. You might want to do a couple small full volume BIAB batches so you understand your efficiencies.

 

[brokebucket]

The Brewing Network shows allude to the number one investment in beer improvement is moving to full boil, but I dont recall them ever saying why. This is ahead of fermentation temp controls, which always astounded me. I went temp control first, then full boil, then all grain BIAB. I really have noticed a difference going from extract to all grain, especially in clarity (beers drop clear quicker), but I was doing full boil extract before BIAB.

I am VERY HAPPY where I am now in my brewing with BIAB and recently converting to kegging. I dont feel like I need any upgrades any time soon.

 

[JohnSand]

I just recently bought a 30qt pot, and have yet to use it. I've been brewing two to five gallon batches in a 20qt pot. I BIAB mash it in that pot, dunk sparge in a 12qt pot. My boil starts with about 4g, leaving room for foam. After the hot break, I fill it to 4.5g, and continue topping off until the sparge water is all in. If there is room, I top off with cold water in the kettle, and more in the fermenter if needed. I adjust the hops to make up for the denser wort. I have no problems with the brew. I think temperature control is far more important than a full boil.

 

[brokebucket]

I think temperature control is far more important than a full boil.

I tend to agree with this, but what do I know.