What type of braid configurations do you use in your cooler MLT?

[javajo91]

I have a 10 gallon cooler that i have converted via FlyGuys's article.
I am about to tweak it by inserting a compression spring to keep it from collapsing via the article by nostalgia.
Do you guys just allow it to lay in a relatively straight line on the floor of your MLT or do you guys make a ring via the introduction of a tee connector.

I'm trying to think what config would introduce the least amount of tangling up with my mash paddle..

 

[Whiskey]

I've tried both a ring and a straight line, and found the ring works better for me and my set up. I have never had a stuck sparge with it, even with a thick Weizen mash with 60% German wheat and no rice hulls. I think there is some redundancy in using a ring, Or even a "t" design. The only issue with these is that they will float. That was easily fixed by tying a couple spare SS washers with some SS wire to the middle of the loop.

 

[Cpt_Kirks]

I use a ring of 3/4" SS braid in my 5 gallon Igloo MLT. I am considering a straight line of braid when I build my 10 gallon MLT.

 

[mattmcl]

I have a straight line of SS braid, no springs or tubes inside. I've never had a stuck sparge.

 

[Eigenmusic]

I found a new way.

I use a portion of aluminum wire screen (the type used for making screens for windows and doors); I roll a portion of it, reinforce it with plastic wire ties, tie one end closed, and tie the other end to the inner pipe.

It is extremely strong and easily holds up to abuse and pressure; no more collapsed hoses!

Screen: Phifer at Lowe's: 36" x 25' Brite Aluminum Screen Wire
Ties: GB Electrical at Lowe's: 100-Pack 8" Black Cable Tie

 

[javajo91]

In all honesty..the collapse of the mesh was totally my fault. I prob whacked it with the mash paddle (first time using my new 3' self made oak paddle). I could probably never run into this issue again but after last weekend, i never want to experience that aggravation again. (See my other post "Batch aborted")

Cpt Kirks - u use a 3/4 inch mesh.
What do the reat of u guys use? Mine is currently a 1/2"

 

[aeonderdonk]

I have a straight line of SS braid, i wish I had gotten one a little longer to go the whole length of the cooler but did my first 2 AG batches yesterday with no stuck sparges (granted I kinda screwed up some other stuff)

 

[Whiskey]

1/2 here. I used a compression "T" fitting and and a couple 1" pieces of tubing to clamp onto the braid.

 

[weirdboy]

I use a ring/T configuration on mine.

 

[BeerPressure]

I just use a straight braid that's about 16 inches long in my cooler. I mill my grain fairly fine (.036" gap setting). I have not gotten a stuck sparge with this.

 

[wilserbrewer]

I keep it very simple...never had a need to run the braid into a loop or insert anything inside, the several simple braid set ups I have done have always worked very well. I do stir the mash w/ a little bit of care, no need to beat it to death.

 

[Baja_Brewer]

I just converted mine after using FlyGuys method for about 5 brews total. If you actually look at "similar threads" at the bottom of the page it is the first one.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/mlt-cooler-conversion-crushproof-braid-122433/

It is cheap and super simple, I was shocked at how easily it went together and the fact that I will NEVER have to worry about a collapsed braid again!

Oh, and I also use the circle like Nostalgia does in his thread

 

[nostalgia]

Tee for mee!

-Joe

 

[Whiskey]

Mine looks somewhat like the two above, but I have about another inch on the part that goes to the threaded adapter. I bent that piece down so the t can rest on the bottom. I get a little more then 3/4 of a cup in the bottom when I drain the MLT.

 

[springer]

Mine is straight but the braid is rather large I used a Water heater feed line that was 3/4 inch . Works great and after a year of brewing still looks new

 

[hopvine]

Anybody have a recommendation for where I might be able to find a 1" diameter hotwater heater hose (from which I can steal the SS braid)? At Lowes I was only able to find 3/8".

Also, if I use a compression T fitting to form a ring, what other hardware will I need in order to connect the bottom branch of the T to the ball valve portion? Palmer's guide in HTB doesn't seem to cover that.

 

[Bobby_M]

Those are over by the water heaters near the electric elements and flexible nat gas supplies.

 

[Cpt_Kirks]

Anybody have a recommendation for where I might be able to find a 1" diameter hotwater heater hose (from which I can steal the SS braid)? At Lowes I was only able to find 3/8".

Also, if I use a compression T fitting to form a ring, what other hardware will I need in order to connect the bottom branch of the T to the ball valve portion? Palmer's guide in HTB doesn't seem to cover that.

I bought my 3/4" at Lowes. IIRC, they had 1", too.

I put a nipple on the ball valve and another on the bottom of the T. Then, I used a piece of tubing to connect them.

 

[Whiskey]

Anybody have a recommendation for where I might be able to find a 1" diameter hotwater heater hose (from which I can steal the SS braid)? At Lowes I was only able to find 3/8".

Also, if I use a compression T fitting to form a ring, what other hardware will I need in order to connect the bottom branch of the T to the ball valve portion? Palmer's guide in HTB doesn't seem to cover that.

I used a 1/2 Inch Female NPT to 3/8" threaded adapter, with about a 3 inch piece of bent 3/8 (ID) copper tubing. I sweated these together.

If you but the compression T at Lowes/HD etc they usually come with tubing inserts.

I cut 2X 1/2 inch piece of 3/8 vinyl hose, insert the tubing insert into each one, then put the braid around that and insert it into the compression fitting and tightened down the nut, repeat on the other side. Give it a tug the braid should be pretty sturdy in the fitting.

I attached the copper tube to the compression fitting, put it in a vice and then bent the tube down. Only do a little at a time, you want the fitting to be resting on the bottom of the MLT, but do not crease it. This will help get every drop of wort you can. The bottom of mine is warped down kind of like the bottom of a Keggle, this helps a bit.

I'll throw up some pics later if you need them.

EDIT: I'll double check the fittings also, I may have used 1/2 inch, may be having a brain fart.

 

[hopvine]

I'll throw up some pics later if you need them.

Pics would be GREAT if you don't mind.

 

[Nomad]

Mine's a straight stainless steel braid, never had a stuck sparge, but the thing somehow floats up into the mash at times. If I had a way to fasten it to the bottom I would, just to keep it out of the grain bed.

 

[ThatGuyRyan]

Mine came with a straight piece of mesh but I had some extra so I made mine into a three point system and so far 3 batches and no problems at all.

 

[thelorax121]

Straight line braid with the binding from a spiral notebook inside the braid to keep it from collapsing

 

[Denny]

Seems like a lot of people overthink this.....I'd rather spend my tiome brewing than building equipment! Here's mine.....no inner reinforcement, no crushed braid, no stuck runoffs, over 350 batches....

 

[Whiskey]

Pics would be GREAT if you don't mind.

Sorry for the delay...

The compression fittings are all 3/8. I just washed it out, and have not replaced the SS washer I use for a weight.