What PID should I get?

[stlbeer]

I would like to use a k type thermocoupler. I would like to a way to disconnect the wire from either the pot or controller (preferably controller ) suggestions? All I find r probes with wires to connect to pid.

This is what you need.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_3&products_id=119

 

[Chrisde]

This is what you need.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_3&products_id=119

Perfect. Thank you. I was finding those individually for 8-10$ each half. Thank you

 

[jimbonnet]

Not to hijack the thread but I believe its kind of relevant-

is the only difference between the td4 and ta4 manual mode? In my reading it seems that way. Therefore in a mash tun or HLT ta4 for cheaper may be a good option.

Thank you.
Jim

 

[orangehero]

I have Auber 2352's and a MyPin TD4. Maybe it's a psychological trick but in my opinion the Auber is very slightly better quality than the MyPin. At least the front stickers are applied on center and the mounting bracket is a bit more solid.

On the other hand any PID's under $100 are bottom-shelf. Over $100 you start getting into mid-range quality.

 

[Firewalker11]

The Mypin TA4 works very well for me but I did succumb to using at SCR Voltage Regulator to control the output. This gave me a nice warming of the element with no worries about scorching. With the full manual ability and fahrenheit display, $15 was a steal! My keezer has one as well on manual with P, I & D all set at 0 and running at 40°F.

I cant be happier.

 

[augiedoggy]

I have Auber 2352's and a MyPin TD4. Maybe it's a psychological trick but in my opinion the Auber is very slightly better quality than the MyPin. At least the front stickers are applied on center and the mounting bracket is a bit more solid.

On the other hand any PID's under $100 are bottom-shelf. Over $100 you start getting into mid-range quality.

The menus and function structure are likely better on the auber but they are likely pretty close in quality since they are both made in China at the same pricepoint but auber generally doubles the prices on most of the products they buy and markup to resell.

And what do we base the term "quality on here? Functionality or sticker placement? I myself don't mind if the sticker is off a fraction vs the auber since it meant the difference between spending $150 vs $60 for three of them shipped to me.... Now the cheapest I can find the td4 with is $27 shipped

The fact that a side by side comparison done here by brumatuer of the disassembled auber and the clone I linked above show the components are all identical and those are sold for the same price as the mypins makes me question whether the auber units really are better made... (There is a very good chance the " 612" model I linked above are just units being sold direct from the manufacturer who makes that particular model for aubrins.) Especially since its already known that much of other auber brand components are just generic China products or other brand components rebranded to the auber name brand.

 

[Chrisde]

Not to hijack the thread but I believe its kind of relevant-

is the only difference between the td4 and ta4 manual mode? In my reading it seems that way. Therefore in a mash tun or HLT ta4 for cheaper may be a good option.

Thank you.
Jim

If I was doing a 3 tier I would go with one of these also but I am doing a biab system so need the td4 to control the boil.

I will have plenty of room in the control box to add one to my heatstick outlet in the future if I continue using it for spare water.

 

[Chrisde]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00899A4LY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

How does the thermocoupler look? If this doesn't work could someone suggest a k type that will?

Thanks.

 

[augiedoggy]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00899A4LY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

How does the thermocoupler look? If this doesn't work could someone suggest a k type that will?

Thanks.

is there a reason you dont want to use an RTD like a pt100 sensor? they usually have superior performance in this type of application and I believe they are more forgiving to things like cable length and splices but Im not positive...
something like this..

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A74JIGQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[Chrisde]

is there a reason you dont want to use an RTD like a pt100 sensor? they usually have superior performance in this type of application and I believe they are more forgiving to things like cable length and splices but Im not positive...
something like this..

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A74JIGQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Hadn't seen those near that price. Thanks for the link. Also, from what I have seen the k types are easier to set up and I have never done anything like this before so was hoping for ease of use of k type but if these r better I will go this route. Just need to find a disconnect for the panel now and I will b set.

 

[HumulusHead]

Hadn't seen those near that price. Thanks for the link. Also, from what I have seen the k types are easier to set up and I have never done anything like this before so was hoping for ease of use of k type but if these r better I will go this route. Just need to find a disconnect for the panel now and I will b set.

Use that link I posted earlier to model yours after. You will need XLR connectors. Can be found on Amazon for cheap. They are basically microphone connectors I believe. But they are what's normally used in our situation

 

[augiedoggy]

Hadn't seen those near that price. Thanks for the link. Also, from what I have seen the k types are easier to set up and I have never done anything like this before so was hoping for ease of use of k type but if these r better I will go this route. Just need to find a disconnect for the panel now and I will b set.

The only difference is selecting pt100 instead of the k type for temp probe and the fact that the rtd has 3 wires instead of two...for k type I believe cable length may effect the temp readout and more calibrations may need to be done.
RTD probes are fairly straight forward to wire up though... a 3 pin xlr connector like mentioned already work well ... thats what I use and theres links to them in my build thread below.... the quick disconnect ones are $20 with shipping and well worth the money but I went with the ones like I linked earlier before I learned the hard way and ruined the cables because they catch on everything.... and then I bought the quick disconnect ones... the cheaper ones work well but they are just inconvenient and have the crappy stainless wire coating which kinks easily and catches on stuff...

 

[doug293cz]

The only difference is selecting pt100 instead of the k type for temp probe and the fact that the rtd has 3 wires instead of two...for k type I believe cable length may effect the temp readout and more calibrations may need to be done.

With thermocouples it's not the length of the wire that's important, but rather the connections. The connectors need to be specifically designed for the particular thermocouple type, or you will get extraneous voltages generated by the connections that will shift your temperature readings in unpredictable ways.

Brew on