What isn't needed
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augiedoggy
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Stainless bling.... but it makes things more exiting to look at and easier to clean.
seriously though I learned from my first build that multiple alarms arent needed sine you can wire all your pids and timer to control the same alarm (which I find very useful)
also using 3 way switches to control 2 devices that will never need to be on at the same time saves cost and panel real estate..
and a keyed switch is fairly useless for most who dont have children in their brew area.
NathPowe
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I don't know if this scenario would apply to very many people, but the control panel I built for my electric setup ended up not really being necessary. I use two 2000W 120V elements and when I built the panel my plan was to do a Brutus 20 2-Vessel recirculating mash. So for that I wanted the PID control to maintain mash temps and manual power control for the boil.
As it turns out, I found the Brutus 20 thing wasn't for me (nothing against it though). Not only that, but after some experimenting, I now just run my elements full-bore during the boil. So in the end my control panel is actually not necessary. Could've just gone with two Hot Rods w/ stainless elements and some sort of simple on/off solution. Nevertheless, I have no regrets - I really enjoyed building the panel and I learned a great deal from the process.
Cheers and enjoy the brew.
As it turns out, I found the Brutus 20 thing wasn't for me (nothing against it though). Not only that, but after some experimenting, I now just run my elements full-bore during the boil. So in the end my control panel is actually not necessary. Could've just gone with two Hot Rods w/ stainless elements and some sort of simple on/off solution. Nevertheless, I have no regrets - I really enjoyed building the panel and I learned a great deal from the process.
Cheers and enjoy the brew.
I personally feel an emergency stop is stupid when there is the main power switch 6 inches away. Keyed main power seems dumb to me as well since we aren't launching nukes. Volt / Amp meters seem like pure bling.
Not electric specific but I've ended up not using all boil filters that I have tried (hop spider, hop blocker, hop stopper, ect.).
Volt/Amp meters aren't really useful unless there is a problem (and then I'm breaking out the multi meter anyway). Keyed switch just lets me know no one is messing with the panel.... and makes an easy "emergency stop".
Since the initial build I have added (off the top of my head), a set of priming valves on my march pumps, whirlpool connections my boil kettle and flow meters to balance flow during sparging.
Turns out I also ended up building a BCS glycol controller to control fermentation temps on conicals... most of the PIDs and switches in my panel are now "redundant" as I COULD have done everything the panel does using the BCS as the controls.
Volt/Amp meters aren't really useful unless there is a problem (and then I'm breaking out the multi meter anyway). Keyed switch just lets me know no one is messing with the panel.... and makes an easy "emergency stop".
Since the initial build I have added (off the top of my head), a set of priming valves on my march pumps, whirlpool connections my boil kettle and flow meters to balance flow during sparging.
Turns out I also ended up building a BCS glycol controller to control fermentation temps on conicals... most of the PIDs and switches in my panel are now "redundant" as I COULD have done everything the panel does using the BCS as the controls.
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I took a PJ diagram and stripped it down pretty well. Got rid of the e stop and key switch. Which also allows you to have less contactors/relays. Don't regret that a bit.
I have an amp volt meter in mine. Pretty useless, but I had one from a purchase here so I threw it on. If I didn't have the extra space I wouldn't have done it.
I only have one alarm, but I'm wishing I didn't even have it. It's not even wired up but I cut the hole in the panel so it's in there.
I also skipped switches to turn on the PIDs, as I wanted those to turn on when I plugged in the unit.
I have a three way switch to control my 2 elements. I essentially use that as my kill switch. I always make sure to turn that switch to off, then I know the elements aren't getting power. Everything else on my panel gets power unless I unplug it.
I brew like 10' away from my GFCI spa panel, so I cut that power when I'm not using my system
I have an amp volt meter in mine. Pretty useless, but I had one from a purchase here so I threw it on. If I didn't have the extra space I wouldn't have done it.
I only have one alarm, but I'm wishing I didn't even have it. It's not even wired up but I cut the hole in the panel so it's in there.
I also skipped switches to turn on the PIDs, as I wanted those to turn on when I plugged in the unit.
I have a three way switch to control my 2 elements. I essentially use that as my kill switch. I always make sure to turn that switch to off, then I know the elements aren't getting power. Everything else on my panel gets power unless I unplug it.
I brew like 10' away from my GFCI spa panel, so I cut that power when I'm not using my system
I could see the redundancy if they are wired in series. In my rig, I have the key switch switch main power which allows my low voltage items (BCS, Arduino, and valves) to be enabled. The E-stop switches contactors for two elements and accessories (pumps, ventilation fan). I have found it useful to be able to cut power ASAP in the case of impending boil-over, stuck SSR, potential dry-fire, etc. by hitting the E-Stop, and likewise retaining control over BCS programming, valves, etc.
-BD
augiedoggy
Well-Known Member
I gotta say I use my amp meter to tell me things are working as they should and my ssrs are functioning on and off as they should... I have read where these stick and people wouldnt realize it so quickly without the meter.. I also use my timer and alarm every brew session.
Again these things aren't for everyone but for me I like setting the timer to throw the alarm when I have to add more hops and also to throw the alarm if my rims temp goes too high or too low out of my safety zone...(i later wired in a flow switch to kill the rims element if flow through it stops) This way I can confidently leave the room and go do whatever I want in the rest of the house while its doing its thing. sometimes I stay in the room sometimes I dont.
The emergency stop is kinda useless I'll admit but it was $3 shipped so..(I have yet to remember to use the damn thing in an emergency)
I also agree that if one is using 120v elements for a boil kettle the control panel itself isnt really necessary but for 240v elements its kind of vital..
Again these things aren't for everyone but for me I like setting the timer to throw the alarm when I have to add more hops and also to throw the alarm if my rims temp goes too high or too low out of my safety zone...(i later wired in a flow switch to kill the rims element if flow through it stops) This way I can confidently leave the room and go do whatever I want in the rest of the house while its doing its thing. sometimes I stay in the room sometimes I dont.
The emergency stop is kinda useless I'll admit but it was $3 shipped so..(I have yet to remember to use the damn thing in an emergency)
I also agree that if one is using 120v elements for a boil kettle the control panel itself isnt really necessary but for 240v elements its kind of vital..
