What is the suggested way to clean keg after emptying one?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Mentioned earlier, it's interesting to see the range of habits / methods.

I break down a fried keg completely, cleaning each part with (just) hot water. Mostly looking to get rid of any hop particles and such, beer that may dry and get sticky or have something grow on it. After it air dries a day I throw it loosely back together and store it. When needed again it's iodophor / water swished around inside, then poured into a bucket. I use that same bucket to try to sanitize the individual parts as they go back together. I'd say each thing (cleaning after frying, later sanitizing and reassembly) takes maybe 10 minutes max from start to finish.

It's worked, have had batches go bad a couple times over the decades but never in the keg.
 
I read here somewhere that a (new) toilet brush comes in handy for scrubbing out stubborn crud. Since that time it's what I use and it makes the job a lot easier.

I did build a powered keg washer out of a 5 gallon bucket, a big fountain pump and a CIP ball I got on amazon. It's awesome, but first I use the brush to knock loose any visible crud before I run it on the keg washer for 15-20 minutes.
 
After every kicked keg, complete disassembly within a day or two at most. Just prior to cleaning, remove from kegerator and vent (I NEVER remove keg and let it set at room temperature uncleaned). Promptly rinse keg with hot water, then use a keg brush after partially filling with a few drops of dishwashing soap and more hot water. Dump and rinse until clear. Brush and clean inside of dip tube and gas tube. Clean and inspect all parts and o-rings. Replace o-rings if cut, old, or out-of- round. Relube o-rings, soak parts in Starsan, add Starsan (about 1 to 2 quarts) to keg, reassemble and tighten fittings, seal keg, and shake to cover all internal surfaces. Store sanitized keg until ready to fill again (and don't forget to empty before refilling). I haven't forgot - so far anyway.
You could become a member of my Brewery! We generally rinse and fill with water and dump a little PBW solution and store upside down . When a "member" takes a keg home, they must rinse and fill when empty. I had one guy not do that and it took a lot to get that keg clean. I do find that letting it soak helps with the crud ring at the top. Very important if storing that the keg and dip tube are full of water.. When we get a few kegs, we use the SS Brewtech Keg Washer (Keg WaSsher) with heated PBW. We do scrub lightly to remove any visible crud prior to cleaning. We are thinking of getting a second one to speed up the process as we move the keg from heated PBW to Heated rinse (changed after 2 kegs) to non foaming sanitizer. We inspect inside with one of the little automotive mirrors on a stick. We leave them pressurized after that with some star san solution in them.

We do use BruControl (BruControl – Process Automation Made Personal) to automate the heat and timing and alarms when cleaning (a separate configuration file).

FYI: The Mark II Keg Cleaner is half the price but 1/100th as effective. You can build a DIY one for very little using one of your brewery pumps that is better. The SS Brewtech one works very well.
 
Last edited:
You could become a member of my Brewery! We generally rinse and fill with water and dump a little PBW solution and store upside down . When a "member" takes a keg home, they must rinse and fill when empty. I had one guy not do that and it took a lot to get that keg clean. I do find that letting it soak helps with the crud ring at the top. Very important if storing that the keg and dip tube are full of water.. When we get a few kegs, we use the SS Brewtech Keg Washer (Keg WaSsher) with heated PBW. We do scrub lightly to remove any visible crud prior to cleaning. We are thinking of getting a second one to speed up the process as we move the keg from heated PBW to Heated rinse (changed after 2 kegs) to non foaming sanitizer. We inspect inside with one of the little automotive mirrors on a stick. We leave them pressurized after that with some star san solution in them.

We do use BruControl (BruControl – Process Automation Made Personal) to automate the heat and timing and alarms when cleaning (a separate configuration file).

FYI: The Mark II Keg Cleaner is half the price but 1/100th as effective. You can build a DIY one for very little using one of your brewery pumps that is better. The SS Brewtech one works very well.
I'm planning to add a high wattage aquarium heater to my keg washer setup to keep the PBW in it's effective temp range through multiple dirty kegs.
 
I'm planning to add a high wattage aquarium heater to my keg washer setup to keep the PBW in it's effective temp range through multiple dirty kegs.
I’m using this
CalPalmy 2000W Immersion Heater | Submersible Water Heating with Full Stainless-Steel Guard and Thermostat| Heats 5 Gallons of Water in Minutes | Grea https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WH14PWX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_8XMEDFReHLN4i

And controlling it with
Inkbird Thermostat ITC608T Dual Temperature Probe Temperature Controller Pre Wired AC Dual Stage Cooling Heating Outlet 12 Period Timer Stage 120V 15A 1800W 2 Temp Sensors Reptile Incubator Brewing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NVD3CL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_zNu7FbGVJ1S99?psc=1

It’s probably overkill to keep 1 gal hot in the Mark II but I also use it to CIP an 18 gal conical using about 2 gal water in a bucket with a sump pump. I’m afraid to go over 135F with these plastic pumps and thinking about upgrading to something like a chugger max.
 
1 gallon, 2000W!?! Overkill is an understatement! Bravo, good sir!

I was thinking 3-400 watts might be enough to keep up with losses due to recirculation. Maybe I need more like 750?

750 would probably work just fine in a keg cleaning application. I ended up with the 2000 after doing some calculations on the surface area of the conical. I wanted to be able to hit 160F during CIP in 50F ambient conditions. They have a lot of surface area and that stainless is a really good conductor.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top