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What is the suggested way to clean keg after emptying one?

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I built a keg cleaner years ago, but now I rarely use it. I only really use it when I am cleaning and rinsing my 30 gallon plastic fermenter to get it ready for my fermentation for my flander's red barrel every year or every other year.

To give some context, I have right around 90 kegs, so I've had to find some efficiencies over the years. I also have kegs that have been holding meads, ciders, and some big beers for over a decade at a time. Most recent was a cyser that I kegged in 2009 that I finally emptied. When you have a beverage in a keg for over a decade, it can have some hard buildup in the bottom.

What I do, is rinse out with hot water, then I use a manifold that is connected to my house water on one end and keg disconnects on the other, and I blast water through both the gas and liquid dip tubes until at least 3-4 gallons have been purged through.

Once I've rinsed the dip tubes, I then do another rinse in hot water to get as much as I can out. There are definitely some that still have hardened buildup. I then fill the keg up entirely to the brim with hot water, and add a full scoop of oxiclean. I put the lid on, pull on the pressure relief to make sure some solution is coming out there, then press on the poppets and make sure the dip tubes and entire post are filled with solution as well (as the oxiclean reacts in the water, it gives off some gas, so it pressurizes the keg and can push liquid into the diptubes).

I then leave the keg filled with the solution overnight, and the next day I dump out the solution, rinse with hot water, rinse the dip tubes through the manifold again, and a final rinse with hot water.

After this cleaning ritual (it sounds longer than it actually takes me, I let oxiclean do most of the work!), I then leave it upside to mostly dry for a day or two, and then turn it right side up and still open, press the poppets to release any water left in the dip tubes, and then let it dry completely. After I am satisfied it is dry, I then pressurize the keg for long term storage at 10 psi and spray the seals with starsan to check for leaks. I do this so that the next time I go to use a keg, I pull up on the pressure relief valve, and if it doesn't have pressure at that point, I know there is a leak somewhere - I set it aside to find the leak later, and find a keg that still has pressure so that I can keg with confidence at that point.

I will say that this system works well for me. I will also say that I've been using kegs long enough that kegs that did seal well eventually developed leaks that I had to take care of, and my caution to others is to always be looking for leaks and find ways so that leaks become more and more obvious.
 
Ok, maybe I’m stupid - or perhaps the laziest one here... I had a keg kick yesterday and I dumped the last 10oz out (cut dip tube) and immediately racked a beer in to the keg. It was filled with beer within 10 minutes of kicking. No rinse, nothing. I sanitized the keg lid and popped the keg right back in to the kegerator. We’ll see what happens?

-Dan
 
Ok, maybe I’m stupid - or perhaps the laziest one here... I had a keg kick yesterday and I dumped the last 10oz out (cut dip tube) and immediately racked a beer in to the keg. It was filled with beer within 10 minutes of kicking. No rinse, nothing. I sanitized the keg lid and popped the keg right back in to the kegerator. We’ll see what happens?

-Dan
Although you could you may want to review whether you should. ;)

Also, once you fill kegs that have been 100% liquid pre-purged, you never want to go back to filling through the lid opening...
 
Ok, maybe I’m stupid - or perhaps the laziest one here... I had a keg kick yesterday and I dumped the last 10oz out (cut dip tube) and immediately racked a beer in to the keg. It was filled with beer within 10 minutes of kicking. No rinse, nothing. I sanitized the keg lid and popped the keg right back in to the kegerator. We’ll see what happens?

-Dan
Haha. I would say that it definitely isn't best practice, but feel free to do what works for you! If you go through beer quickly enough, any contaminants that may have built up may not have enough time to make a noticeable impact on your beer.

If, however, you have beers that you intend on having for many months, if not years (I had a barelywine that was over 11 years old in the keg!), I would say it is best practice to ensure you are working with a clean and sanitized keg.
 
I use the mark 2 with the T adapter connecting to gas and liquid ball lock connectors so I am simultaneously pushing liquid through both poppets and dip tubes and up the center. I use PBW and have a heater with an inkbird controller to keep the liquid at 135F.

I keep the kegs pressurized until I clean them
1 vent CO2
2 rinse with hot water to get most of the gunk
3 hook up to the mark 2 and run hot PBW 15 minutes
4 rinse with hot tap water
5 store upside down with lid sitting on top (well on the bottom) till ready to use

sanitize, purge and fill are all done at same time using clean dry keg
 
After every kicked keg, complete disassembly within a day or two at most. Just prior to cleaning, remove from kegerator and vent (I NEVER remove keg and let it set at room temperature uncleaned). Promptly rinse keg with hot water, then use a keg brush after partially filling with a few drops of dishwashing soap and more hot water. Dump and rinse until clear. Brush and clean inside of dip tube and gas tube. Clean and inspect all parts and o-rings. Replace o-rings if cut, old, or out-of- round. Relube o-rings, soak parts in Starsan, add Starsan (about 1 to 2 quarts) to keg, reassemble and tighten fittings, seal keg, and shake to cover all internal surfaces. Store sanitized keg until ready to fill again (and don't forget to empty before refilling). I haven't forgot - so far anyway.
 
Are you saying that keg was on tap for 11 years in a keezer/kegerator?
You, sir, deserves a few medals!
Haha, it was not on tap the entire time, but it was in the walk-in cooler during that time. I had rediscovered the keg when I was culling through the kegs in the walk-in (there are around 70 kegs in there). I stack my kegs in there 3 high in the back, so a keg can get "lost" for many years. I have 14 taps out of a coffin box from the walk-in cooler, so I rotate beers on and off some times to see how things are aging, or if something isn't worth keeping. This especially happens when I brew a new beer, and I need to find a spot for it on the coffin box, so inevitably a keg gets replaced, and I forget about it until I look around and find it again!

I have a number of meads from 2006-2007 still, some ciders from that time. I already drank through my oldest beers from that time, but I think I still have a RIS from around 2012, and a barleywine maybe a bit younger than that. I also have some other beers that are in the 2-7 year range as well, some have aged better than others!
 
I made my own keg washer with a sump pump, a 7 gallon bucket, some pvc and tubing. I can power wash the keg and both liquid and gas posts at the same time. I hose out the kegs first with a garden hose. PBW solution (alkaline) in the keg washer, followed by a water rinse. Then I spray Star San inside the walls of the keg for an acid bath. Put the keg lid on and store until I am ready to keg. Then I use Sani Clean in the keg washer and run the kegs through the washer right before kegging. Works great, no beer stone, mold, nasties, just very clean kegs and great beer! I do break down the posts also to make sure they are clean as well and I use some keg lube on the post's gaskets.

John
 
Mentioned earlier, it's interesting to see the range of habits / methods.

I break down a fried keg completely, cleaning each part with (just) hot water. Mostly looking to get rid of any hop particles and such, beer that may dry and get sticky or have something grow on it. After it air dries a day I throw it loosely back together and store it. When needed again it's iodophor / water swished around inside, then poured into a bucket. I use that same bucket to try to sanitize the individual parts as they go back together. I'd say each thing (cleaning after frying, later sanitizing and reassembly) takes maybe 10 minutes max from start to finish.

It's worked, have had batches go bad a couple times over the decades but never in the keg.
 
I read here somewhere that a (new) toilet brush comes in handy for scrubbing out stubborn crud. Since that time it's what I use and it makes the job a lot easier.

I did build a powered keg washer out of a 5 gallon bucket, a big fountain pump and a CIP ball I got on amazon. It's awesome, but first I use the brush to knock loose any visible crud before I run it on the keg washer for 15-20 minutes.
 
After every kicked keg, complete disassembly within a day or two at most. Just prior to cleaning, remove from kegerator and vent (I NEVER remove keg and let it set at room temperature uncleaned). Promptly rinse keg with hot water, then use a keg brush after partially filling with a few drops of dishwashing soap and more hot water. Dump and rinse until clear. Brush and clean inside of dip tube and gas tube. Clean and inspect all parts and o-rings. Replace o-rings if cut, old, or out-of- round. Relube o-rings, soak parts in Starsan, add Starsan (about 1 to 2 quarts) to keg, reassemble and tighten fittings, seal keg, and shake to cover all internal surfaces. Store sanitized keg until ready to fill again (and don't forget to empty before refilling). I haven't forgot - so far anyway.
You could become a member of my Brewery! We generally rinse and fill with water and dump a little PBW solution and store upside down . When a "member" takes a keg home, they must rinse and fill when empty. I had one guy not do that and it took a lot to get that keg clean. I do find that letting it soak helps with the crud ring at the top. Very important if storing that the keg and dip tube are full of water.. When we get a few kegs, we use the SS Brewtech Keg Washer (Keg WaSsher) with heated PBW. We do scrub lightly to remove any visible crud prior to cleaning. We are thinking of getting a second one to speed up the process as we move the keg from heated PBW to Heated rinse (changed after 2 kegs) to non foaming sanitizer. We inspect inside with one of the little automotive mirrors on a stick. We leave them pressurized after that with some star san solution in them.

We do use BruControl (BruControl – Process Automation Made Personal) to automate the heat and timing and alarms when cleaning (a separate configuration file).

FYI: The Mark II Keg Cleaner is half the price but 1/100th as effective. You can build a DIY one for very little using one of your brewery pumps that is better. The SS Brewtech one works very well.
 
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You could become a member of my Brewery! We generally rinse and fill with water and dump a little PBW solution and store upside down . When a "member" takes a keg home, they must rinse and fill when empty. I had one guy not do that and it took a lot to get that keg clean. I do find that letting it soak helps with the crud ring at the top. Very important if storing that the keg and dip tube are full of water.. When we get a few kegs, we use the SS Brewtech Keg Washer (Keg WaSsher) with heated PBW. We do scrub lightly to remove any visible crud prior to cleaning. We are thinking of getting a second one to speed up the process as we move the keg from heated PBW to Heated rinse (changed after 2 kegs) to non foaming sanitizer. We inspect inside with one of the little automotive mirrors on a stick. We leave them pressurized after that with some star san solution in them.

We do use BruControl (BruControl – Process Automation Made Personal) to automate the heat and timing and alarms when cleaning (a separate configuration file).

FYI: The Mark II Keg Cleaner is half the price but 1/100th as effective. You can build a DIY one for very little using one of your brewery pumps that is better. The SS Brewtech one works very well.
I'm planning to add a high wattage aquarium heater to my keg washer setup to keep the PBW in it's effective temp range through multiple dirty kegs.
 
I'm planning to add a high wattage aquarium heater to my keg washer setup to keep the PBW in it's effective temp range through multiple dirty kegs.
I’m using this
CalPalmy 2000W Immersion Heater | Submersible Water Heating with Full Stainless-Steel Guard and Thermostat| Heats 5 Gallons of Water in Minutes | Grea https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WH14PWX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_8XMEDFReHLN4i

And controlling it with
Inkbird Thermostat ITC608T Dual Temperature Probe Temperature Controller Pre Wired AC Dual Stage Cooling Heating Outlet 12 Period Timer Stage 120V 15A 1800W 2 Temp Sensors Reptile Incubator Brewing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NVD3CL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_zNu7FbGVJ1S99?psc=1

It’s probably overkill to keep 1 gal hot in the Mark II but I also use it to CIP an 18 gal conical using about 2 gal water in a bucket with a sump pump. I’m afraid to go over 135F with these plastic pumps and thinking about upgrading to something like a chugger max.
 
1 gallon, 2000W!?! Overkill is an understatement! Bravo, good sir!

I was thinking 3-400 watts might be enough to keep up with losses due to recirculation. Maybe I need more like 750?

750 would probably work just fine in a keg cleaning application. I ended up with the 2000 after doing some calculations on the surface area of the conical. I wanted to be able to hit 160F during CIP in 50F ambient conditions. They have a lot of surface area and that stainless is a really good conductor.
 
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